Burda Magazine: 02-2008-105 (jacket with lapel collar) - Type:Coat/Jacket  | | Viewed 411 times
| | Review rated Helpful by 1 people Very Helpful by 13 people | | Reviewed by: | Sigrid. | 
 | About Sigrid. | | NETHERLANDS | | Member since: 11/14/06 | | Reviews written: 98 | | Favored by: 84 people | | patterns reviewed: 96 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 11/1/09 5:19 AM | | Last Updated: | 11/1/09 5:39 AM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | Pattern Info provided by Sigrid. | | NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue | | | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description
From the website: This plain-cut jacket is converted into a couture highlight by lots of refined little extras, such as pairs of decorative buttons, and gold piping shimmering on the collar, lapel and front edges.
This doesn't say a lot on the pattern. It is a short jacket with lapel collar, princess seams, one part sleeves.
Pattern Sizing
38-46, I made a size 40 with a little fba.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Style yes, looks no (no decorative buttons or gold piping !).
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn't even read them. Apart from the lapel collar the basic construction is simple.
I prefer to give my jackets a bit more inside finishing default BWOF instructions provide (or most other pattern companies for that matter).
I used a few books and online resources that I have used before and read those instructions again for refreshing my memory. They are:
- interfacing: The classic guide to sewing the perfect jacket. For the lapel I used the method described for using fusible interfacing. For me and my way of sewing a better solution then default use of fusible interfacing. The classic method with padstitching is just too time consuming for a jacket that is a one or two season garment. I didn't take pictures but the basic thing is that you cut the fusible interfacing on the roll line, trim 3 mm at the lapel side. In this way the roll line is not interfaced. Narrow (twill?) tape is stitched on the jacket side. It was the first time I did it like this, and will certainly use this more often.
- construction collar with lapel: High fashion sewing techniques by Claire Shaeffer,
- bagging a lining: Power sewing step by step by Sandra Betzina
- inserting sleeve heads – Els at the Sewing Divas
(I give links to Amazon just for information, there are other ways to obtain these books)
What I like about the pattern
I bought this fabric in an impulse, mainly because of the colors. Then I had to find a jacket pattern to make with it. Browsing the line drawings in my BWOF issues this was exactly what I was looking for.
Furthermore I was looking for a pattern that I wouldn't need to make a muslin for. As BWOF is very consistent in sizing, this was a great plus.
What I dislike
No dislikes.
Fabric Used
A velvet like fabric. Don't know the exact contents of the fabric, but it's not real velvet (but giving a lot of dust from the fabric, just like the real thing). The motif made it difficult to cut matching all pieces, and if you take a close look, you'll see that I was off a bit at a few places. No one in daily life will notice though, I realize that (will people notice perfect matching is what I'm wondering sometimes).
Not so lucky was the prominent motif at bust height, I will wear the jacket with a scarflike this. Here a side view with scarf.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made
When I had cut the pattern, I compared the pattern pieces with the pieces for this jacket I made last year. I compared the pattern pieces and the basic draft was exactly the same, so I made a little fba like I did for that one. No 'official' method, but it works for me on pattern like this. I made no other changes.
As said I made the inside of the jacket in a more tailored way, though not really tailored, I used some of the easy options.
I used black interfacing and the wrong side of the fabric was black, pictures of the interfacing wouldn't show much. I interfaced the front pieces completely, top parts of the sleeves and hems of back and sleeves as described in the tailoring book.
On the back I used a back stay, and on the front a chest shield. same color as the dress form, there is no hole in the jacket ;)
More pictures:
Closed front - side - back
Unbuttoned
Lining
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might use the pattern again some time, it's a nice basic jacket. I certainly recommend it.
Conclusion
A good BWOF pattern, drafted as expected. The result is a jacket that is not my usual style in fabric, and I'm happy to add some color to my very dark winter wardrobe.
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 Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
<< Previous Review Next Review >> | Reader Comments | | Jolet | 11/1/09 | I like the result. Very stylish jacket wonderfully made! Have a nice PR weekend in Paris! You can wear it there! | | * * * | | dbsewer | 11/1/09 | I agree that the fabric is a must-have. It's so pretty. What a nice job you did and thanks for the links to the books (most of which are in my sewing library). Paris? You will be tres chic, madame. | | * * * | | clin | 11/1/09 | Lovely jacket - the fabric is so beautiful! | | * * * | | Idunna | 11/1/09 | It such a pretty jacket. Thanks for the book links and online tutorial. I'm getting ready for my first wool jacket, so these will help. | | * * * | | Nancy K | 11/1/09 | It's a lovely jacket. Enjoy! | | * * * | | Kay Y | 11/1/09 | What beautiful fabric, and what a sensational job you did matching that pattern! The result is amazing. Don't worry so much about the motifs; wear it with pride. | | * * * | | marec | 11/1/09 | So beautiful...thanks for all the references. I love that fabric with its byzantine pattern. | | * * * | | Re Becca | 11/1/09 | You really did a fabulous job matching that pattern! You whole construction is empeccable. | | * * * | | Barbara V | 11/1/09 | Such a pretty jacket! The style, fabric, fit and workmanship are all wonderful. Nice job! | | * * * | | Rhoda K | 11/1/09 | A beautiful jacket! Thanks, too, for the references you used - luckily I have both. | | * * * | | lmg | 11/1/09 | I loved this pattern and am so glad to see it made up and look so great. Thanks for all the tips and references. Much appreciated. | | * * * | | Robin Denning | 11/1/09 | beautiful! | | * * * | | gatorgirl4325 | 11/2/09 | I love, love, love your jacket - the style, the fit, the fabric - just wonderful!! | | * * * | | OP Gal | 11/2/09 | Lovely jacket--impeccably tailored. Thanks for the detailed review with all the links. That's so helpful. | | * * * | | Annette1 | 11/4/09 | I missed this one until I was cleaning out my emails! What a BEAUTIFUL jacket, and so exquisitely constructed. All of the extra work in the underpinnings shows in the outward apperance of your jacket. I LOVE the fabric and the way you've laid out the design. It reminds me of an out-of-print Miyake jacket pattern that I see come up on eBay every now and then. I keep PEERING at that pattern, mulling it over, but finally decide it's the FABRIC that I like so much (very reminiscent of yours here), which I could do with ANY pattern. :o) Great review, which I've bookmarked! | | * * * |
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