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Pattern Reviews> Simplicity> 9469 (Men's Shorts (Pants))

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Reviewed by:arianamaniacs
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Austria
Member since: 6/11/04
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patterns reviewed: 185
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Posted on:11/8/09 5:02 PM
Last Updated:6/6/14 1:35 PM
Project Photo:Simplicity: 9469 by arianamaniacs

Simplicity: 9469 by arianamaniacs  Simplicity: 9469 by arianamaniacs    
Pattern Photo:Simplicity 9469
Simplicity Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 9 people   
Fabric:Shirting - Cotton  [See other projects in this fabric]
Pattern Description:
Men's dress shirt with yoke. Short or long sleeves.

Update: I've sewn this several times, but this is the first time with the short sleeves.

3rd version, blue stripes
2nd version, white with contrast inside collar and cuffs
First shirt, Blue stripes
Pattern Sizing:
I sewed size 42.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. Since this was my first men's shirt, I followed them exactly.
They are excellent.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
LIKED:
  • Three cheers for NO HAND SEWING
  • I loved the self-faced yoke. Their directions show you how to face the yoke professionally.
  • The directions for the sleeve placket were very clear. I compared with other shirt patterns. these were the best and almost the same as in my book "Shirtmaking" by David Coffin

DISLIKED
These dislikes aren't actually a fault in the pattern, just style parts that didn't appeal to me.
  • The front buttonhole placket is too wide for current styles. The front that overlaps on top shouldn't have top-stitching. RTW shirts only fold the top overlap to the inside holds it together by the buttonholes.
  • Collar is on the border to being too wide.
  • The width of the shirt sleeve is exactly as wide as the cuff. Normally, there should be one or two small pleats to fold in the little extra fabric and give the sleeve some ease.
  • The short sleeved version did not work well. The sleeve is curved, which means it's difficult to fold in the hem allowance and get a nice flat seam. It also doesn't work if your fabric has any pattern on it, because it makes it look like you didn't hem evenly

Fabric Used:
Muslin: lining from more Ikea curtains. After my last two projects, I'm almost out of curtains ;)
Real shirt: Pin-striped shirting from Mills Ends in Portland
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Changes I made:
  1. In the muslin, I added a pleat to the middle back. After I tried it on my BF, I wish I hadn't added it. He doesn't need any extra room, because he is rather tall and skinny. This is an easy change though, and might be recommended for anyone with a little more girth. I didn't do this in the real shirt.
  2. After seeing how the muslin turned out, I sewed the front placket like a RTW shirt. Do it this way instead of following instruction #2. Afterwards, the front plackets are held together by the buttonholes and buttons.
  3. When working with stripes, try to cut out the yoke, the fronts and cuffs so that the seam will fall in between the stripes. This is more forgiving with wobbly sewing.
  4. Fixed style elements I didn't like in my muslin: add width to lower sleeve and pleat it into cuff, lessen width of collar, made front placket like RTW
  5. On my muslin, my top-stitching was rushed on the collar band and the sleeve placket. The stitching on the collar band is the most visible on the shirt because its right up by the face. On the real shirt, I took my time and did it very neatly. See the difference here

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'm glad I sewed a muslin first instead of cutting into my good shirting fabric. The muslin is technically still wearable, but I would probably dye it black first to hide my haphazard top-stitching.
I'm pleased as pie with the shirt and so is my BF. He's extremely picky about his shirts and he said it looked like a professional one.
On the first version, all the pin-stripes matched up perfectly - across the front, under the shirt sleeves and the sleeve plackets. My flat-felled seams never looked so good. I wish I sewed that nicely all the time! ;)
On the 2nd version, the collar wasn't centered very perfectly and the collar was still a bit wide. I liked the contrast fabric though on the collar.
On the 3rd version, the collar was perfect. I also experimented with the shape of the cuffs, so that it had bevelled edges at the corner.
Conclusion:
Great pattern, with great directions!
Took me about 6 hours to sew. I'm so slow, bah.
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12 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
supizoo said...
Beautiful shirts! I had to laugh at your 'slow' comment. I fluff about for hours before even beginning to cutting into the fabric! Thanks for the really helpful details/photos in your review.
6/6/14 7:10 PM
carolynw said...
Great looking shirt - I make shirts for my husband and he loves them - even when I suggest he not wear them out because of flaws he does anyway. You have done such a terrific job - look really high end custom made. Must get this pattern as it sounds as if the collar stand has a better way to make it? Great work and great review
6/6/14 6:55 PM
LoriU said...
Great review - thank you for all the helpful tips and directions. Did you enjoy Mill Ends?
11/11/09 10:25 AM
JEF said...
That is one nice looking shirt!
11/9/09 3:08 PM
CynthiaSue said...
whoa whoa. remarkable! this totally looks like its form bloomingdales!!
11/9/09 1:27 PM
marec said...
Nice shirt, and a great mini lesson in shirt making. Thanks so much for all the detail. I have made sport shirts and am leaning toward a wool shirt for my husband. Your review will help.
11/9/09 10:49 AM
Peter in NYC said...
Nice job!
11/8/09 10:12 PM
AnneMarie60 said...
Impressive results! A sharp, RTW-like shirt.
11/8/09 8:25 PM
Kayseri said...
Terrific effort - looks just like a bought one.
11/8/09 6:39 PM
Renren said...
Six hours, bah???? Oh my goodness, it takes me about 12 hours to sew a simple gathered skirt (three tiers, but still). Remarkable!!! I may have to get this pattern at the Simplicity/Joann sale because dh occasionally asks if I will be sewing something for him someday. Best get started. Glad bf likes his new shirt.
11/8/09 6:27 PM
RLL said...
Geesh, forgot to mention what a wonderful job you did. Kinda funny how you take your time and try to do a better job when it is for someone else.
11/8/09 5:21 PM
RLL said...
I love making my DH's shirts. He loves it even more! Since I have been making his clothes, he actually fabric shops with me (sometimes) and picks his own fabric. And he doesn't complain about my ever growing stash anymore.
11/8/09 5:19 PM
 
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