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BurdaStyle Magazine: 03-2010-107 (Strapless Dress) thumbsup - Type:Dresses    printable version
Viewed 1098 times 6 more reviews
Review rated Very Helpful by 12 people   
Reviewed by:arianamaniacs
Friend of PR
About arianamaniacsstarstarstarstar
Member since: 6/11/04
Reviews written: 175
Sewing skills:Advanced
Favored by: 46 people
patterns reviewed: 168
Bio: more...
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Posted on:8/6/10 6:04 PM
Last Updated:4/1/14 4:45 PM
Project Photo:photo3

Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
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Pattern Description:
Strapless dress with boning.
New version - recycling project. I had an old dress that was stained that I just loved the print and I had a linen skirt that I hated because the seams were worn out. Just enough to make the bodice out of the linen and attach the skirt as a gathered top.

I sewed this first as a muslin in a plaid and afterwards as part of my entry to the natural fabrics contest. I'm usually too lazy to sew a muslin, but I wanted to make sure that the silk one was going to fit correctly. The plaid let me play with the pattern and see how it matches up.
TIP FOR SILK: I cut my skirt pieces out and then sprayed them down in the shower (when they're wet, they stick to the wall for easy spraying) This gets rid of most of the chemicals that cause the silk to wrinkle so easily. So wrinkles don't set so easily when you sit down -- much nicer! Spraying doesn't change the texture of the silk like happens when you agitate and wash either.
Pattern Sizing:
I sewed size 44. RTW: US 12/14 EUR 42/44 UK 14/16
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
They are too sparse and hard to read in German. I sewed it the way I wanted.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
  • The cut is stunning on this one
  • The fit was even better. This would make a gorgeous wedding dress. In fact there is a longer cut in the magazine for it too

  • The pockets. Not sure about those. In my real version, I'm going to leave them off. A cocktail dress isn't usually the clothing where you want to stick a bunch of stuff in the pockets anyways.

Fabric Used:
Plaid polyester cotton with shiny clear pattern melted on the front. You can see it in the photos. Obviously, this isn't the easiest pattern to start matching stripes or plaid on. The only place mine halfway matched was the front stripe. I still like the way it turned out and I was curious how the dress would look in plaid. The plaid kind of reminds me of a typical Tommy Hilfiger pattern.
1. Center fronts: cut pieces 1, 2 and skirt front on the same center fold. (Piece 2 has a CF seam, but I removed it on my silk version. You'll want to remove it for plaid as well)
2. Sew the pleats in the front skirt
3. Match front pieces 3 and 4 to match with the skirt (from the pleat to the side seam.
These tips will end in a better match up than mine.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
  • I underlined both versions and attached interfacing to the underlining instead of the fashion fabric or lining. I prefer iron-in interfacing, but I've had bad luck in the past with it bubbling on silk. This gets around this and gives the bodice more support which is important in a dress like this.
  • Sewed the skirt higher on the skirt back to accomodate my sway back. I also cut the back top off a half inch, because my shoulder blades are quite low.
  • Small bust adjustment on the front curve.
  • Next time, leave the pockets off.
  • My interfacing was too heavy on the muslin, so I didn't even need boning. This made it a little uncomfortable because the bodice is so stiff it can almost stand on its own. On the silk one, I used sew-in boning to the seam allowance of the interlining. (I didn't center it over the seam like they say in the instructions -- that looked unecessarily hard and there's no reason it can't be sewn to the allowance instead. All the layers (fashion, interlining, interfacing) was enough so boning doesn't show from the outiside and doesn't rub on the inside either.
  • I piped both my versions, it's really cute that way and accentuates the shapr lines of the bodice.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Great dress, I love the fit. As you can see from the photos, there's not much coverage on the bust. I wouldn't recommend this pattern to anyone above a large B. It also doesn't include a lot of difference between waist and hips. So if you're really curvy in that area, this may not be the best for you.

This pattern caught my attention while flipping through my friends copy of the March 2010 Burda. There are other great formal dresses in this issue, it's worth checking out!

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17 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Rhonda Noah said...
I think your muslin is really cute! I like it; it does have the TH look. Are you going to finish it and wear it?
8/6/10 8:50 PM
Kayseri said...
The fit is lovely. I think the plaid is a stunning variation for this style and would be a cute day dress.
8/7/10 4:30 AM
pammieh said...
This is adorable! I love it - great idea with the plaid and fantastic execution!
8/7/10 1:08 PM
Leora said...
I was thinking how awesome that you pattern matched on a muslin. You should definitely wear it out, looks great. Love it!
8/7/10 2:07 PM
ChristinePDX said...
Amazing in plaid, love it.
8/7/10 4:36 PM
HLT said...
Cute muslin!
8/7/10 10:48 PM
barebear said...
So cute! I love the bodice part, and the kooky muslin fabric is really fun paired with this style of dress. I hope you keep this as a wearable muslin!
8/8/10 0:37 AM
MissCelie said...
I like it with the stripes. The might be one of the cutest muslins I've seen! And you're right about the fit in the bust. It's definitely got minimal coverage.
8/10/10 9:16 AM
dingyadi said...
The silk version is gorgeous - as was your muslin. Thanks for that tip about the silk - I didn't know that and it is very useful.
8/18/10 9:04 AM
narcissaqtpie said...
both nice dresses! you look good
8/18/10 9:05 AM
HawkeMorningStar7 said...
Gorgeous and you look stunning, fabulous fit!
8/18/10 9:42 AM
barebear said...
Va va voom! The silk dress is gorgeous! It fits you so well. Totally worth the muslin! Thanks for the tip about the silk. Not that I think I'll be going anywhere near it any time soon, but when I do work up the nerve to use it, I'll keep that tip in mind. :)
8/18/10 1:50 PM
lakaribane said...
Wow, I really love the plaid one! You've been making some cute dresses..and giving me ideas! Thanks for the silk and plaid matching tips!
8/18/10 2:43 PM
FrenchCollections said...
Beautiful ! I love the piping details...
9/20/10 4:19 PM
ak21 said...
i too love your plaid version...i love both but the plaid muslin rocks! excellent sew. well done.
11/12/11 11:22 AM
supizoo said...
I Hope you plan on wearing your muslin as well as the 'real' dress. Both are fabulous. Ingenious tip regarding the showered silk!
4/1/14 6:40 PM
Renren said...
Beautiful dresses! Good tip for handling the silk and I do agree about you on the pockets. A sleek dress like this is better off without pockets, I think. Love both versions.
4/1/14 9:05 PM
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