|Version 2: I made a second and even more fabulous version of this skirt in leather and wool twill to follow the mixed media trend. Besides, I can never do anything the easy way and it was way too easy in fabric.|
There are 4 leather sections plus the waist band is leather. The center front and peplum are all one piece cut in high twist wool twill. The lining is just a second skirt cut in rayon Bemberg which is sewn into the skirt at the waistband.
Leather sewing info: This took 1 small-ish piece (6 to 7 sq feet) of lambskin that I got special order from Roz at Sew Much Fabric.
The pieces are laid out single layer on the back side of the skin and the patterns are traced off including the seam allowances and alterations. I did have to add about 3/4" to each seam allowance on the side to add 3" total to the width.
The leather is interfaced with this incredible ProWeft Supreme Medium Fusible Interfacing from Pamela Erny at Fashion Sewing Supply. I used fusible woven for the waistband and for a little more stability.
I pressed the leather with my iron to fuse the interfacing by following Pam's directions included with the interfacing and placing a piece of parchment paper (protects from the steam and keeps you from scorching the finish) between the garment and iron like a press cloth.
Instead of pinning the leather, you typically use rubber cement to hold the pieces together. But when I sewed leather to fabric I used double stick tape like this or ResQ Tape. Just make sure that when you use anything that doesn't peel off easily that you either keep it in the seam allowances or test it first to make sure that it doesn't take the leather finish with it. I found some skinny ResQ Tape at Michael's that worked very well and I didn't have to bother with goopy rubber cement, but I did have to be careful to keep it in the SA because it can leave a little bit of a residue.
If you use an adhesive that damages the finish of skin you can make it look better with shoe polish, but its better to test whatever you are going to use on a scrap.
I added pockets to the side front pieces. I followed the construction technique that is talked about in this book as recommended by Kathleen Fasnella on her blog. This technique has you sew the pocket bag together, cut the opening in the garment and then you sew the pocket into the opening. If you are interested, there is more information and several pictures on my process on my blog here, but its kinda long and picture heavy. I absolutely love these pockets, they lay flat, smooth, and you can put stuff in them without having a lump!
Fitting Info: The waistband is curved and sits below the waist. It is 32" (size 46) around the top edge and the waist measurement is 30 1/2". I cut the outer waistband in leather and the waistband facing is in the wool twill to reduce the bulk a little. I serged the edge of the facing instead of folding it under, then topstitched it in place.
I did make a minor fitting tweak. I realized after putting on the waistband (and topstitching the leather) that I needed a little more shaping at the back waist so I did a little 'protuding-butt' adjustment and put little dart in the fabric. If I make this again I will take the dart out of the center back seam.
First Version: click here
Pattern Description: As per Marfy: "This mini-skirt is softened at the hips with ironed pleats and has a shaped waistband." I call it my instant gratification, super professional, kick up a dreary Tuesday morning skirt. As you can tell from the illustration, there is an L shaped seam in the center of the side front and back, with 3 pleats in the lower skirt which give nice flow and movement.
Pattern Sizing: It only comes in sizes 42, 44 and 46. I made a size 46, but kicked it up quite a bit. Like most of the marfy patterns that I have used, this one has notches for the waist and hips, and according to the size guide, the waist measurement is 78 cm, and the actual pattern measured to about 81 cm (according to my measurement on the curve) so it has about 3 cm of ease.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I think it looks quite similar, given the size change which completely changes the look.
Were the instructions easy to follow? No instructions, but really, its a skirt! There are only 2 pieces for the front, 2 almost identical pieces for the back plus the curved waistband. There is an L shaped seam in the side center of both the front and the back like the pattern illustration shows.
The L shaped seam did need to be thought through.
1) Clip the inside of the L to the point.
2) Sew the side front, and side back seam from the top down to the point of the seam.
3) Pin the 3 pleats with the center most pleats extending towards the center front and center back.
4) Sew a straight seam from the center end of the lower skirt seam out towards the side seam so it looks like this (the top edge is the center front end)
5) Sew the side seams, insert the zipper and sew on the waistband and hem.
I lined it, so the lining is sewn in the waist seam and hangs free.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love, LOVE how versatile it is. You can really change the look with different fabrics. I also like the pleats which are big enough to add a lot of comfort and ease of wear, but the look is still sleek because they are near the hem.
Fabric Used: I got this wonderful designer (Philip Lim?) from Roz at Sew Much Fabric in Houston. Its a remnant of about 1 1/2 yard of 45". The fiber content is 81% silk, 19% cotton so it has the softness of silk, but the cotton makes it substantial enough for a skirt. It presses like a dream, and doesn't wrinkle very much at all. The picture was taken at a Fashionista sewing meeting after a long day at the office and a long car ride.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: First of all, the pattern in a size 46 is for a 32" waist and is only 18" long. As a mature, professional woman who is 6 feet tall and has a 36" waist I made some changes. I really just tweaked it a little for professional reasons. I ended up adding about 4" to the length, which I added to the part above the peplum instead of the hemline. I also added about 4" to the waist and tapered to about 1" at the hem.
One note about the design and the measurements, the side panels are cut on the bias so even though it is close fitting at the top, it is quite comfortable.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I really so think that I want to make it up in plaid. The style is distinct, but it is very easy to change the look with different fabric.
Conclusion: Once again, I <3 Marfy... How can you not LOVE this pattern.