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Wawak Sewing Supplies
8814 (Custom Fit Misses Dress)
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by 10 people
Member since: 9/4/10
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5/24/12 11:27 PM
5/26/12 11:54 AM
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Hello inertia, Maybe this tutorial helps to get rid of the gaping armholes: http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/get-rid-of-a-gaping-armhole This should hopefully also solve the problem with the pulling from the sides up to the bust area as well as the pulling in the back. Because to me it looks, like itís too small in the bust area, and you need an adjustment there. After fitting the upper part, and if then there's still a design or fitting issue in the belly area, you can take that in at the front seam. I would then probably not end at the skirt but take in the skirt a bit in the front as well. These are my thoughts what to do, maybe someone else has more or other ideas.
5/6/12 7:02 AM
Hopefully some constructive help: Your reviews of dresses with waistline seams are much more flattering for you than this- shall we say shapeless?- dress. The bust darts are a little high, so they aren't providing the shaping where you need it. The upper bodice looks too big, the skirt portion looks the right size. I did not check the link German* gave, but it looks like you should use a smaller size with a larger cup measurement on the top, because it looks like it needs taking in at the sides and is pulling at the bust as well as the armholes need to be raised. I like the fabric combination. Thanks for posting the WIP. It's nice to see this on a real body besides the skinny model. Good luck!
5/6/12 10:52 AM
Fictionfan said: "it looks like you should use a smaller size with a larger cup measurement on the top" and I agree.
5/6/12 11:50 AM
Hi, yes, that's an improvement, well done! There's still a bit of pulling under the bust area, front- and backsides. And still a bit of gaping of the armholes. I would first try folding some more away from the armholes into the bustdart. That might also furthermore improve the altogether appearance, as it already did, comparing the pics before and after your adjustments. Before changing anything else, the upper part should fit. When that's done, the dress and fabric will fall and drape like it's supposed to be and it's not unlikely, that other changes become unnecessary, because it then will look just fine. Actually, looking again at the sideviews, I can't seeany more gaping of the armholes. Maybe at the front view it's just the bumps you were talking about. If there's no gaping any more, I'd try doing a regular FBA now additionally. Because of the still existing pulling to the sides.
5/6/12 4:31 PM
German, thank you for the encouragement! I feel like the entire chest area/armhole is already too big - i'm having trouble imagining how slashing and spreading would make it better. I added another dart to close the armhole, and raised the shoulder seam, and that seemed to bring things closer to fit....but i now have pulling below the bustline. You're right that the fit of the top affects everything, though. I thought that the custom cup size would help with this, but I'm really struggling to get this to fit!
5/6/12 7:30 PM
Hi inertia, much better! You can just redraw the armscyce curves closer to your own arm areas. In effect, you add a crescent of fabric so the dress hugs your contours closer. Many patterns have armholes that are way too big for good movement of the arm. I agree with GermanKleinigkeit that a closer fit with a bigger FBA for the front would be the next step. It does look so much better! Is your final fabric as heavy as this lace and lining? As for shaping the bodice, I'd do some curving of the side seams and/or takeout some of the fullness at the center front seam above the waist to get a closer skimming of your shape without a too-clingy dress. I have found that for my dresses, sometimes taking width from the center takes away the frumpiness. I usually move that width to the sides to get the right circumference.
5/7/12 0:58 AM
Fictionfan said: "a closer fit with a bigger FBA for the front would be the next step" Hello inertia, let's say it that way: The room you need, or even too much of it, you seem to be getting by the garment being to big, rather than having enough space exactly where it's needed. Maybe you can start all over with some cheap fabric, (old tablecloths, whatever) and cut a smaller size to begin with, but doing an FBA. For woman, who need an FBA, it's often a good way to choose the size by measuring the upper width of the bust (measured just above the bust) and then do an FBA. I think it would really be worth it to keep working on it, you chose a very nice dress pattern and in my opinion it will suit you well, once fitted. But Fictionfan is right, another style is probably easier to make it flatter you. Something else, do you intend to cut the final dress longer than the muslin? I suppose longer would be better for that style. You could also consider making a stola going with it, out of the same fabric maybe. I'm going offroad, pardon me, but I alredy see you gorgeous and glamorous in a perfectly fitting gown. Please, don't give up. :-)
5/7/12 12:15 PM
GermanKleinigkeit, Fictionfan, you are so right! I recut a bodice out of a different fabric with a smaller overall size and a larger bust dart, and it made a huge difference. I finally have a bodice that fits! Thank you so much for the encouragement - it looks so much better. I may post another set of fitting shots before i go to the next step, but i can see a marked improvement finally! Fictionfan, yes, i do think the final fabric is as heavy as the. lace - it's an embroidered lace on a metallic mesh net.
5/8/12 2:08 AM
I'm very happy for you, that there's such a progress now and you are more satisfied with the look. That's why I love sewing: One can actually get to a fitting garment. Yes, please, keep us informed about further steps, I will check and see, if I can say something maybe useful to it, Fictionfan I can imagine will do the same, and maybe somebody else also.
5/8/12 4:24 AM
inertia, isn't it wonderful to finally figure out the right size to cut for the best fit? This dress has so much potential, but the simplicity of the cut makes it much more difficult to get a fantastic dress and quite easy to get a poor fit. I am looking forward to the next installment!
5/9/12 1:09 AM
WOW! What a difference the right size makes!! It looks amazing! The excess armhole fabric will disappear when you sew the dress to the lining. You can carve out more if you need to once that is done. Those low back wrinkles are the sort that I generally fuss with to figure out, including taking pictures with my more normal, slumped posture instead of the stand-up-straight-here-comes-the-picture posture, so I'm not sure that my advice is quite right: if you let out the back side seams below that area, allowing the skirt more room to fall over your hips and bottom, would the wrinkles still form? It looks like the seams are pulled a bit toward the back, suggesting that there may not be enough fabric there. On the whole, it fits really well now, so much better than any RTW would, and no one besides you will notice those wrinkles at the party. If I were you, I'd just finish it. Great job!
5/13/12 10:56 PM
Hello inertia, I am delighted, too, what a great difference the right size makes, wonderful! You should keep this in mind with your future garments, to choose the right size with making an FBA, you look great in it now. There are minor issues still, as you said, the armholes, you will trim to fit, and maybe there's still a tiny bit too little of an FBA on the left side (right side of back on the picture, the little pulling). But I do agree with Fictionfan, no one will notice, it most likely fits better than any purchased dress would. I used to have the same problem with purchased garments, that's why I started sewing. If you like, keep us updated, when you have finished it, first enjoy the party of course. I would love to see it. I'm often a "last minute - I need it tomorrow" - sewer, but I always make it in time, despite all the appearing needed alterations. You will make it, too, I'm quite sure, it looks so good already. Happy sewing and wearing. :-)
5/18/12 5:29 AM
You look lovely in your beautiful dress!
5/25/12 6:55 AM
Amazingly helpful! Having experienced all of the above, the sight of your ultimate dress is inspiring and uplifting, a lovely clearing in the wilderness. Thanks so much for sharing your process and consultation.
5/25/12 3:07 PM
Your dress is wonderful. And, I'm thoroughly impressed by all the effort and persistance you put into making it fit so well. It was very interesting and educational to read your process. Thanks
5/26/12 7:51 PM
GORGEOUS! It's really striking how great this dress looks on you! Having followed the process, I am even more impressed by the fantastic fitting job you did. Such a lovely fabric choice, too!
5/26/12 10:45 PM
Fantastic finished dress. Love the "spin" view.
5/28/12 7:13 AM
There's a saying in Germany: Things that take long, finally end up well. That's certainly the case with your gorgeous dress and you look beautiful in it! Your persistance and patience paid out. Well done!
5/29/12 5:05 AM
Wow - what a progression! You finished dress looks beautiful - love the spin picture!
6/15/12 4:13 PM
You look lovely. All your work certainly paid off. I really like the look. Tempting to get the pattern but I don't know if I would have the patience to put in all the work.
6/16/12 2:52 AM
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