Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|BurdaStyle Magazine: 05-2011-108 (Princess Panel A Line Dress) - Type:Dresses|
Review submitted in Fabric Stash Contest 2013 Contest
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|About nicegirl |
|Member since: 5/10/06 |
|Reviews written: 308|
|Favored by: 305 people|
|patterns reviewed: 308|
|Posted on:||6/21/12 9:08 AM |
|Last Updated:||7/31/13 1:29 PM|
More Info provided by nicegirl
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
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|Fabric:||Cotton - Double Faced [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|**GREEN SARONG PRINT MALAYSIAN VERSION**|
I bought this fabric on a work trip to Malaysia in 2009. It is a sarong length, meant to be wrapped and pleated around the body as a skirt as part of the traditional local dress. The print was challenging but fun to work with. I originally wanted to use the diamond/dagger shapes for the entire bodice, but it turned out that section of the fabric wasn't wide enough, so I had to go to a princess seam pattern and do plainer side panels.
Changes from the previous version:
-Split the side panel into two by adding a side seam.
To jazz up the fairly plain sides I added some of the border fabric. I traced the lower curve and panel seams and cut out lengths of border. I put the border on "upside down"--with the selvage at the top--and stitched very close to the edge of the selvage using my blind hem foot to keep the panel in place.
-The center back bodice is perhaps the pinnacle of my sewing to date. I took great care in cutting so that I could perfectly match up the motifs along the CB zipper.
As long as you pay no attention starting at the dark border on the bottom of the lower diamonds (why did this happen?), the back looks seamless, much less zipperless. While I have done projects in plaids and stripes, I have never matched a print before. So proud, y'all.
-I didn't have enough fabric to fully self-line the bodice, so I used batiste for the lining. I didn't want the white lining to peek out the neckline or armscyes so I did yet more drafting to create front and back facings without the princess panel seam.
I found scraps of fabric to cut out the facings, interfaced them, serged the lower edges, and then carefully placed them on the lining and stitched in place at the lower edge using my walking foot. This trouble was worth it to get a nice finish.
-Luckily, the skirt part was easy! I didn't want any seams to break up my print, so I made the panel as wide as I could and used the selvage as the hem edge. I added darts in the back to align with the princess seams, and also put in darts to align with the side seam. Then I did a large inverted pleat at center front with the remainder of the extra width.
For a simple dress, this ended up being a ridiculous amount of work, especially given what I had planned in the first place! When I first finished it I wasn't sure about the diamond shapes and wished I'd done a plain bodice and used the diamond panel in the skirt. But the longer I wore it, the more I liked the exuberance of the bodice. It seems like an appropriate way to use the fabric, where that panel would be the star.
This fabric is not, alas, my oldest piece in stash, but it was one that had been weighing on me to sew it up already. So yay for that! Only hundreds more pieces to go...
The photos were taken on a visit to the Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens in the DC area; you can read more about our visit here. If you have access to a car and live around here, you really must visit! It's gorgeous and free.
All photos are here and the blog post is here.
**ORIGINAL REVIEW: VINTAGE CHEVRON FABRIC**
Misses' A line dress has side panel on bodice and skirt (no side seam) and boat neckline.
17-21, petite sizing that corresponds to 34-42. I cut a 17/34 at the shoulders and bust, transitioning to a 19/38 at the waist and 20/40 at the hip.
A vintage home dec fabric from DeBois textiles. A burn test says it is all cotton. I used both sides of it for this panel dress.
Time to Make:
I made two bodice muslins and getting the proper grain in cutting this zigzag fabric (single layer) took about 2 1/2 hours in itself. In all, at least 20 hours went into this dress, probably more.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the princess seams with possibility for colorblocking. The skirt is a comfortable width for biking.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, quite a bit.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I did not use them. It's a fairly standard dress that doesn't require any special construction.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
-I knew going in that the neckline would be too wide in front and back. I also didn't like how skinny the shoulder straps were. As a result of my two muslins, I ended up narrowing the neckline about an inch on each side (for a total of two inches), redrawing the shoulder straps closer to the center , and lowering the front neckline two inches.
-I also did broad back, small bust, and swayback adjustments. I could have used a teensy bit more swayback adjustment.
-Because of the thickness of my fabric I couldn't use an invisible zip, so I decided to go for a lapped zipper to add to the vintage feel. I rewatched What Would Nancy Drew Wear's video tutorial and then found this awesome PDF from sewing.org on putting in a lapped zip (clicking on the link auto-launches the PDF download--their website is not very well-organized and I can't figure out how to give them the traffic). I referred to it about 4000 times while putting in the zipper, and it came out perfectly.
-I hand-picked the visible/overlap side of the zipper. The hand stitches pretty much disappear into this thick, loosely woven fabric.
-The lining finish process is described here.
I lined the bodice of this dress with an Ikea Knoppa sheet, a lightweight cotton-poly batiste (and only $1.99 for the sheet!). Because my fabric was lightweight, I fused strips of interfacing to the neckline and armscye. Trim a scant 1/8 inch from the edges of the neckline and armscye on the lining to make it slightly smaller than the fashion fabric.
Sew the side seams on the bodice and lining, or, in this case, side panel seams. Once your lining and fashion fabric are assembled, sew the lining to the fashion fabric, right sides together, along the armscye and neckline. Leave unsewn for two inches from the shoulder seam.
Next, sew the shoulder seams. Treating the lining and fashion fabric separately, place them right sides together. Stitch and press. This is why you need the extra two inches leading up to the shoulder seams, so you have room to maneuver the shoulders right sides together.
Turn the shoulder seams to the inside and press the seams allowances of the lining and fashion fabric in place. You can see how close it is to done here.
Now all you have left is a little bit of easy hand stitching. I use a small whipstitch. With the lining trimmed slightly smaller than the fashion fabric, it automatically turns under more and is easily hidden. Both my fabrics pressed so well I didn't even need to pin. I timed it, and the hand-sewing of these little bits of the shoulder took less than 10 minutes.
Here is the completed finish.
-The only thing that nobody addressed on the lapped zipper front was how to handle the lining at the neckline to finish it properly at the zipper. On the overlap side (the left in the photo), I folded the lining around the overlap. You can see I could have used some extra width on my lining. On the underlap side, I just placed the lining and fashion fabric right sides together as normal. This finish worked adequately.
-To finish the lining, I hand-stitched it to the zipper.
-Because of the thickness of my fabric, the overlap stuck out a little at the waist seam, rather than sitting flat. I sewed in a little snap to keep it in place.
-Because the fabric is not very firm, I decided to put in a waist stay.
I used Tasia/Sewaholic's instructions for a waist stay. I stitched a ribbon to the waist seam allowance. I stitched the lining to the zipper only to right above the waist seam to leave an opening for the waist stay hook.
-Because of fabric limitations, I shortened the dress about two inches in cutting. Even though this is a petite pattern, it is drafted quite long and I ended cutting off another two inches before hemming.
-In marking my hem, I found that it was collapsing, especially at center back. So I fused a strip of medium-weight interfacing along the fold line.
-I bought a bag of vintage hem lace from the thrift store a while back, including a kelly green. I was about an inch short, but figured the gap wouldn't be too terrible. I used a machine blind hem to stitch the hem in place. Again, it pretty much disappears into this fabric, which is the advantage of a loosely woven textile.
I am a big fan of this pattern. I can definitely see making it again. It is a great A line alternative to a traditional sheath. It could be made in a fancy fabric for eveningwear, suiting fabric for work, or a printed cotton for play and look appropriate in all three contexts.
All photos are here. The muslin blog post is here, the bodice lining blog post is here, and the construction blog post is here.
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