Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|McCall's: 5525 - Type:Coat/Jacket |
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Review rated Very Helpful
by 7 people
|About velosewer |
|Member since: 11/11/06 |
|Reviews written: 250|
|Favored by: 29 people|
|patterns reviewed: 230|
|Posted on:||11/22/12 2:36 PM |
McCall's Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Great Wardrobe Builder |
|See other patterns in this category: Outerwear |
|Fabric:||Cotton suiting [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Pattern Description: |
Semi-fitted, lined, double-breasted jacket and coat have collar, lengths and sleeve variations, shoulder pads, princess seams and side front pockets.
I've made coat E with a back vent; belt carriers; epaulets with button closure; pocket flaps with button trim; collar tab; back buttoned yoke; sleeves with button bands; topstitch trim, button closure; and have self-tie belt.
My version is single breasted, not double breasted.
Here is the final reveal.
Sizes 8 - 16 although it goes up to 24W. I've made size 10.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes and I'm really pleased I altered it so it's single breasted.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were and I added a hood and then removed it. It was just an idea I had and while I didn't use it, getting the practice on this version was a learning and not a problem.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This pattern is well used by other PR sewers and for good reason. It has all the bells and whistles you need to make a successful trench coat.
The minuses are the pocket flaps are big and the pockets could be deeper. However I like to the size of the pocket bag because it works for someone who's short - like me.
if they're the only minuses, that's not too bad.
The back shoulder detailing is not centred so you'll need to mark this up for yourself. You might want more movement and widen the back shoulder detailing, so check what suits your needs.
Cotton / poly suiting with Sunsilky lining.
Each piece is interfaced because I want this coat to keep its shape over time.
I've also used a thin red trim along the lining shore of the jacket. It's a finish that I've been using because I love using the effect.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made this single breasted version rather than double-breasted. Why would I do such a crazy thing? I'm short and single-breasted works better for my height. I chose this pattern because it's such a fav with many PRers and I've been procrastinating about attempting this coat.
So I've done:
- a sway back adjustment;
- roll shoulder adjustment;
- shortened the sleeves;
- shortened sleeve belts;
- shortened the body by 4"
- Interfaced every piece for stability;
- Taped the lapel roll line.
- Added sleeve head shape for the shoulder pads.
- Topstitched the seams
- Used bound buttonholes.
Front pockets and detailing:
I found the pocket detailing at the front confusing and I've raised their location and changed the welt.
I grew up in the 80s and know that 2 sets of shoulder pads, when you wear a coat on top of a jacket results in gridiron footballer tendencies, don't work for me. So I used a thin piece of ironing board foam, bound in interfacing and shaped like a sleeve head as the shoulder pad shape. It keeps the shoulders firm but they are not high, just firm.
Lapel roll line:
I added cotton twill tape after the initial construction of the body so the collar rolls nicely but I needed to double check it because I changed the jacket from double to single-breasted. I also added a second layer of interfacing on the collar areas of the jacket and collar facing.
I'm referring to the main belt and the sleeve belts. I will add buckles to these belts when I'm able to source them. For now, the waist belt is top stitched and the sleeve belts are finished with the buttons used on the coat. The buttons are from Lotsofbuttons.com
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Oh yes. I just need a formal occasion as an incentive - or I could find one!
I do like this pattern although I'm ready to try trench styles from indie pattern companies. There are some Patrone patterns that have lovely front pocket detailing that I'm looking forward to making - next year!
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