J Stern Designs: 0037 (Misses' Jeans)  - Type:Pants  | | Viewed 408 times
| 15 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 25 people | | Reviewed by: | BlossomKyle | 
 | About BlossomKyle | | NJ USA | | Member since: 3/16/08 | | Reviews written: 117 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 44 people | | patterns reviewed: 115 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 11/25/12 2:28 PM | | Last Updated: | 11/25/12 2:33 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | 
J Stern Designs Pattern Info | | Pattern Rating: | Great Wardrobe Builder | | See other patterns in this category: Pants | Available for sale on PR: $20.00 (See envelope)  | | | | Fabric: | Denim [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Special note:
This was my first time making any pants with a fly front zipper, so I thought, why not go for the Holy Grail and make jeans? Plus with these kinds of things I like some hand-holding, so it was perfect that PR was offering the online jeans class on sale, and the timing was right. and thus my first pair of pants (jeans!) were born!!
Pattern Description:
From the pattern envelope: "Misses' Jeans: Fitted jeans featuring classic 5-pocket styling w/ optional back flap pockets, fly front, boot leg and topstitching. Finished inseam 34 inches".
My description: Awesome jeans that have a great bootcut silhouette and close fit. I made the version without the pocket flaps as I have vowed to never wear pants with pocket flaps ever again. lol.
Pattern Sizing:
6-16. I started with the 10, which has a full hip of 40. The sizing here seems closer to RTW sizing than the big 4 pattern companies, for sure. The last pair of Levi's (the 529 curvy boot cut) I bought are a size 10.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, but my back pockets are different. 
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I used a combination of instructions:
--The 10 step instructions that came with the pattern
--The video instructions that are optional for the PR "Blue Prints to Blue Jeans" class online, taught by the pattern designer herself, Jennifer Stern.
--My hand written notes from the "Professional Jeans Construction" hands-on class that I took at the American Sewing Expo in Sept 2012, also taught by Jennifer Stern. That class was 3 hours long, where we sewed a sample of the front pocket and the fly front zipper.
--Some hand written notes by Jennifer, written in her booth at the ASE, after I tried on her size muslins. She suggested I start with the 10 and wrote down some starting adjustments.
--Also I remembered reading a tip that popped up on several blogs about using jean topstitching thread in the needle but thread that matches the jeans color in the bobbin, to really make the topstitching pop.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
LOVE the styling.
LOVE that there were plenty of marking and shorten/lengthen lines all over.
LOVED the instructions for sewing the fly front, especially the videos. I made the sample at the ASE and the sample at home before I made the real deal--well worth it. From what I understand, there are various methods for sewing fly fronts. While my brain has trouble comprehending how the fly front is constructed, I take it step by step and voila, there's a fly front!!
LOVED how she has you put the patterned side of the pocket lining to face YOU in your jeans--that way you see "the pretty".
I wish the pattern had a "curvy" option which would have made pattern adjustment easier, but because it didn't, I learned quite a bit about pattern manipulation, which I knew nothing about, really. So it was worth it as part of my sewing education. It got me over my fear of slicing and dicing patterns.
Also on the cutting diagram white is the fabric wrong side and shaded is the fabric right side, but in the sewing instructions, white is the fabric right side and shaded is the fabric wrong side.
In step 4 she says you can try your jeans on with the pockets pinned to make sure the pocket placement is ok, but the sideseam and inseam aren't sewn til step 6. I asked Jen about it and she said for the first time, sew side and inseams and then pin the pockets on to get the right placement. For the future, once I know where the pockets look good, you can sew the pockets on first before sewing the side and inseams.
Fabric Used:
It's one of two pieces of denim giving to me by a friend, in exchange for cat sitting her cat for a week this past summer. I think I got a good deal--I love her cat and love the denim. The denim did have an odd white vertical line through it for part of the yardage and I had to cut out one of the legs again because of it. Thankfully I had enough to do that!!
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
This is where I started with my muslin. I did these adjustments to the pattern based on Jennifer's notes from the ASE and cut it out:
--change the rise: front 1.5", back 2", side seam 1.75"
--shorten 1.5" above the knee.
--and extend the back crotch point .5", scooping the back crotch, and shifting the top of the back pattern out .5"
And these are the adjustments that were made to the muslin:
--contoured the waistband (via darts extending through back yoke) (wound up using her contoured waistband).
--took 2 inches out of top of back leg grading to 0 at side
--took 2.25 out near hip grading to 0 at CF and CB
--CB seam is 1/4 with a scoop to 5/8
--CF crotch seam is 3/8 going out to a 5/8 scoop and back to 3/8
--inseam is 1/8 going out to 1/4 by knee then to 1/2
--outer leg seam varies--1" at top grading to 3/8 at hip and around 3/8 downward..
Based on her suggestion during class, I cut on the sewing line of my muslin then traced those pieces, adding the appropriate seam allowances.
In step 4 she describes two methods for the back pocket. I chose the traditional method but interfaced the back pocket first. That seemed to work really well.
Special notes for next time that you may benefit from too
1a. Pay special attention to the cutting diagram for the waistband. I cut it upside down, which meant that the waistband was too short on one side and too long on the other. I then ripped it out and moved the whole waistband over, but the CB is slightly wider than the rest of the band, and I can see that now my right back waistband is wider than the left back.
1b. Next time I will add to the length of both ends of the waistband--that way if I mess up on cutting, there will be enough waistband to go around.
2. I embroidered my name on the waistband facing for a custom touch. Of course I embroidered "Kyle" at the CB first before sewing the band on, then see what happened in item 1a above? So I wound up embroidering my middle name too and a flower in between to keep it centered on the CB.
3. Interfaced the back pockets as described above, and copied the design from a pair of Eddie Bauer jeans I've owned for ages. I used a twin denim needle for that double curve. I folded the edges of the pocket over by about 3/4 but might make the pockets even smaller next time. Also I will fold the top of the pocket over twice instead of once next time.
4. Jen says to serge all edges without cutting. But I forgot to serge the back pocket til it was too late. oops! Also I serged every raw edge but it was not necessary to serge the front pocket edge nor the top of the back leg, I don't think. Her serging tips, especially for the front curve, were super helpful!!!
5. The hammer is a great way to flatten thick seams (I learned that first from Angela Wolf last year and again from Jen this year at the ASE). But when using it to hammer on the shank button, be sure to protect the surface of what you're hammering against as well as the button.
6. If you want to topstitch the inseam like most RTW jeans, you'll have to do that before sewing the sideseam. Her directions don't have you topstitch the side or inseam.
7. I topstitched the side seam from the waistband to about 6.5 inches down, like RTW. Her directions do not mention this.
8. Belt loops--on the back I sewed them further away from the side, and also angled them more than she did. I also topstitched the top of the loop as well as the bottom. I serged the raw cut edges of the loop first. I wound up cutting off some of the belt loop length (and serged edge) though.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I have already cut out a pair of corduroys to make with this same pattern! I plan on making a lot of cords and velveteen pants from this pattern!
I especially recommend taking the jeans online class while sewing up jeans, if this is your first time sewing jeans or pants with a front fly.
I used a lot of tools that I had never used before:
--fray check
--edgestitching foot
--jeans topstitching thread
--topstitching needle
--jeans twin needle
--brass jeans zipper
--jeans shank button
--tracing wheel and tracing paper (Really! I've been sewing for ages and never used those tools, but I will now!)
Pictures
Back pocket is here
Here's a pic of the inside of my jeans before the buttonhole and button were applied.
More pix with front, side and back views are in this post on my blog!
Conclusion:
Great jeans that I wore THREE days in a row in public. I have also thrown them in the wash and they didn't fall apart. Win win!
Thank you again Jen for all your help with this! You rock!
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19 Comments
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What a complete and wonderful review! A great resource for anyone attempting jeans for the 1st or 15th time! Great jeans Kyle! I enjoyed the Twitter updates too by the way!
11/25/12 2:40 PM
What a great pair of jeans! I took J Stern's class too and it was very helpful with fitting.
11/25/12 3:22 PM
beautiful jeans - great topstitching. Well done.
11/25/12 4:10 PM
Fantastic looking jeans, especially your topstitching, and a review full of wonderful tips. Congratulations!
11/25/12 5:21 PM
These jeans look super!
11/25/12 5:49 PM
Great jeans!
11/25/12 6:34 PM
Absolutely fantastic!
11/25/12 9:24 PM
Congrats on your first pair of jeans! I took Jen's class a while back, too, and thought it was very helpful. Cute jeans!
11/26/12 0:10 AM
Awesome!
11/26/12 0:10 AM
Wow! Great review - your excitement is infectious. Your jeans looks fabulous, thanks for all the tips. A
11/26/12 1:57 AM
These look awesome! I think I must get this pattern - everyone has such great results, and you've done all the thinking for us.
11/26/12 4:02 AM
Great jeans and terrific review!
11/26/12 6:43 AM
Great job and thanks for such a complete review!
11/26/12 8:12 AM
You've made a knock out pair of jeans! That topstitching is the best. Thanks for taking the time to write such an in-depth review. I've taken classes through ASG with Jennifer Stern and she is the best when it comes to jeans.
11/26/12 8:50 AM
Great jeans and very thorough review! Your top stitching is lovely.
11/26/12 6:06 PM
These are a great pair of jeans. I'm so pleased you've got a great result on your first go. But then you've done so much research and you were always bound to do a top job. Great work Kyle.
11/26/12 10:15 PM
What a great review and a fabulous pair of jeans.
11/27/12 12:51 PM
Congratulations--I always feel like making jeans is akin to making fire. You've done it! And with cute back pockets to boot.
12/2/12 8:07 AM
Beautiful construction and topstitching!
3/19/13 7:02 PM