|Pattern Description: |
This is the toggle coat version, No. 9, from the men's Japanese Coat Book. The pattern itself is unlined, with a hood, front toggle button closures, patch pockets with flap, shoulder overlay with back princess seams. Comes knee-length with a two piece sleeve.
The patterns in this book are all sized from small - x-large and I made a medium, with several fitting adjustments for my mister.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. There were a few design changes that I made (read below), but for the most part it did resemble the coat from the book.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
As with all japanese patterns books, this book is in japanese and to date there is no english translation as yet. However, the illustrations are so well done that one can easily decipher the basic steps in putting the coat together. Being an advanced sewer, I don't necessarily require instructions, but it is nice to have a road map all the same and the illustrations definitely provided that.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The patterns in the book are truly beautiful and all of them have additional design elements that can take them a notch or two higher than your average envelope pattern. With that though also can come some things that are somewhat superfluous. The outside welt pockets for example, are patterned very elaborately and fussily and contain elements that are not necessary and in the end they just make things harder.
I used a wool double cloth coating for the outer shell. I lined this coat and for the lining I used a rayon crepe back satin interlined with lambswool and flannel.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made some fairly extensive alterations. These patterns are actually quite a bit smaller than you might think and even though my guy is pretty small, he still has bigger dimensions than what was called for in the pattern. I added width to the upper back, beveled out the armscye a bit to allow for more movement in the front of the coat and made the sleeve about 2 inches longer. Unfortunately, even after two muslins, the fit was still not quite perfect (I was horrified) and I had already put together the basic outer shell when I realized that the hip area was much too small. So instead of sacking the project, I added a 2 inch godet to the princess seam in the back and if you didn't know I had added it for the fit, you would think it was a design element.
As for the design changes I made, I swapped out the patch pockets for welt pockets instead, created a zipper placket for the front to help keep out the cold and drafted a lining from the coat pattern itself.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don't think I'll be sewing it again anytime soon as this coat should last my mister for a very long time. I will say that though I do really love the coat patterns in this book, unfortunately they take a really long time because in addition to actually making the coat, you have to trace the thing off (doesn't include seam allowances by the way) and since there are so many pieces, it can be a very long process. Ugh. But many times, its worth it in the end. This has been, by far, the hardest thing I've ever made! But I am very proud to say that I'm done and its finished! Yay! I do recommend the book to others as there just aren't that many patterns for men out there these days, so its really nice to have some alternatives to turn to.
For more photos and more in depth posts, you can refer to my blog and this post here.