Vogue Patterns: 8648 (Misses' Dress)  - Type:Dresses  | | Viewed 482 times
| 26 more reviews | Review rated Helpful by 2 people Very Helpful by 5 people | | Reviewed by: | NVK | 
 | About NVK | | GA USA | | Member since: 2/12/09 | | Reviews written: 28 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 7 people | | patterns reviewed: 23 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 12/18/12 7:56 PM | | Last Updated: | 12/18/12 8:22 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | 
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info | | Pattern Rating: | Recommend, with Modifications | | See other patterns in this category: Dresses | Available for sale on PR: $20.62 (See envelope)  | | | | Fabric: | Polyester Brocade [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
This pattern allows you to choose many different options for the finished style of dress you want. The dress has princess seams with a bias, close-fitting midriff. You can choose to make a close-fitting straight skirt with back slit or a circular, full skirt. The bodice has a low front and low back with zipper closure. The dress can be sleeveless or short sleeve. The sleeve has a dart on the shoulder for contour fitting.
Pattern Sizing:
Pattern packages contain multiple sizes in each package, 6, 8, 10 & 12 or 14, 16, 18, 20 & 22.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I made several design changes, but it did look similar to the pattern envelope.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I made this dress in combination with the Couture Dress Course I was taking on Craftsy with Susan Khalie:
Craftsy
I followed her techniques. I did read the directions and feel that it would take some finessing to get the lining onto the bodice. The steps I followed were very detailed and can be listed as:
1, Make muslin to perfect fit
2. Cut out fabric and trace stitching lines, ignoring the cutting lines.
3. Hand base underlining to dress pattern pieces
4. Hand sew the garment to exactly match up the intersections of all the seams
5. Hand-pick and center the back zipper. I departed from this, and put in an invisible zipper, which I prefer.
6. Machine sew seams over basted seams
7. Remove seam and underling basting. This takes quite a bit of time.
8. Catch stitch all seams to interlining
9. Cut out and sew seams in three separate sections, bodice with sleeves, midriff, and skirt.
10. Hand sew each section of the lining, starting with the skirt, then the bodice, and, finally, the midriff
There is a lot of hand sewing while making this garment and that takes time. This is a well-made dress. It took me approximately two months to construct this dress. I learned quite a bit, even though I already knew many of the techniques. The Couture Dress Course helped me develop an understanding of the total couture-making process, along with gaining an understanding of how the total process is sequenced.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
This dress design is not one I would have chosen for my specific body-type. I chose the pattern because I wanted to follow the same procedures used in the class. For one thing, there are too many pattern pieces for the midriff. I should have made the midriff pieces narrower to fit my body better. The wider midriff accents my full bust too much. I did like the princess seams and the straight skirt. In the end, I am very happy with the dress, as you can see from the pictures. I constructed the dress from red fabric, in time for Christmas. The dress looks very holiday-festive.
Fabric Used:
Dress- brocade with metallic thread
Interlining- silk organza
Lining- Hang Free brand polyester lining and chiffon
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made some changes in both the dress and the lining.
Dress alterations:
1. Full bust adjustment; following the adjustment I took in the waist and hip seams
2. Lowered the bust point
3. Lengthened the bodice
4. Raised the front neckline of the bodice as it was too low, showing my bra.
5. Took out the center seam in the midriff. I made this one larger piece by cutting it out on the fold and taking out the seam allowance.
6. Raised the back to the nape of the neck
7. Omitted the kick pleat; sewed the seam
8. Instead of short sleeves, made 3/4 sleeves. I morphed the short-sleeve pattern onto the long sleeve pattern piece of Vogue pattern 8280
Lining Alterations
1. I basted the skirt front pattern pieces together from the hem to the curve before the waist. I left this area open which made a V opening. This V became the dart. I then cut out the front as one piece with two darts that matched the princess seams of the bodice. This cut down on the bulkiness of all the seams in both the dress and the lining. I went through the same process for making the darts on the back of the skirt, using the back and side-back pieces. I did keep the center-back seam in order to have an opening for attaching the zipper.
2. The midriff has a lot of pattern pieces; both the front and the back had four pattern pieces. I combined the front pieces and cut them out as a single piece. I combined the back onto two pieces.
3. I increased the amount of fabric for all seam allowances
4. I made the bodice lining out of the lining fabric and it was too bulky at the shoulder/sleeve seam. I reduced this bulk by making the sleeve out of the chiffon. Instead of sewing the chiffon sleeve to the bodice, I hand-sewed the sleeve to the dress. The bodice SA was folded at the shoulder and hand sewn over the chiffon sleeve.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would recommend this to others. I think it makes a very nice dress, although not a perfect pattern for my body shape. If I made this dress again, I would make fewer piece at the midriff and make the pieces narrower.
Conclusion:
This is a well-drafted pattern which resulted in a beautiful, fitted dress.
Your can see photos of the entire process in the album.
Album
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17 Comments
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It came out great! The higher back is beautiful, and the 3/4 length sleeves are very nice. You are inspiring me to keep going with my second muslin from the course.
12/18/12 8:04 PM
Stick with the course, it is well worth it, especially if you are trying to learn couture techniques...
12/18/12 8:13 PM
You can really tell when the Couture class was followed. They all look so excellent! Yours included! You're a perfect Xmas package!
12/18/12 8:26 PM
This is gorgeous on you. You did a great job.
12/18/12 9:14 PM
Exquisite! This is what custom made clothing is all about! I'm on the course as well and truly enjoy it!
12/18/12 10:39 PM
I like how you eliminated the center front seam for the midriff piece; with the brocade I think it could be somewhat distracting from the rest of the dress. Also, I have to say, it looks like you perfectly matched the pattern for the brocade on the transition between pieces!! I don't know how you did that, but it looks amazing
12/18/12 11:25 PM
Beautiful! Love how you styled the dress! Good job!
12/19/12 0:31 AM
Your dress is beautiful. The time you took with the project really shows. I'm taking the Craftsy class as well and after my 3rd muslin, the pattern's very flattering on me.
12/19/12 6:33 AM
Beautiful job! I am "slowly" doing this course and hope my results are as good. You inspire me!
12/19/12 9:09 AM
You look lovely! I have signed up for this class but have not yet started. Your post is an inspiration to get going.
12/19/12 10:09 AM
Beautiful dress! You look lovely in it. I am in awe of your couture sewing techniques and the resulting end product.
12/19/12 10:35 AM
Gorgeous couture dress! I also have registered for this class, but have yet to make the same dress. Learning all of the couture sewing techniques is worth the class price alone in my opinion. Nice job!
12/19/12 11:08 AM
Wow, this is a work of art. What a perfect fit. You did meticulous work. And just in time for the holidays - this is the perfect holiday dress.
12/19/12 1:52 PM
Great, detailed review. And a beautiful dress. You do really lovely work.
12/19/12 3:39 PM
Photo album is great! The dress is so nicely tailored to you and the color complimentary.
12/19/12 8:16 PM
I am enrolled in the course but haven't started your finished work is making me kick in to gear and get going. Love your dress. Great for the season we're n also Valentines Day.
12/19/12 10:41 PM
Stunning! Such a great holiday dress.
12/20/12 7:07 AM