Butterick: 5147 (Lifestyle Wardrobe) - Type:Coordinates  | | Viewed 431 times
| 21 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 1 people | | Reviewed by: | busybee crafting | 
| | About busybee crafting | | OH USA | | Member since: 12/9/08 | | Reviews written: 27 | | Sewing skills:Advanced Beginner | | patterns reviewed: 26 | | Bio: more... | | | Posted on: | 12/21/12 6:17 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: |  Butterick Pattern Info | | Pattern Rating: | Highly Recommend | | See other patterns in this category: Suits / Separates | | | | Fabric: | Cotton Jacquard [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on to add a link |
| Pattern Description: MISSES’/MISSES’ PETITE JACKET, TOP, DRESS AND SKIRT: Jacket A has front and back darts, collar and three-quarter length sleeves. Top B has front and back darts, side zipper. Slim fitting dress C has front and back darts, back zipper and back slit, length is 2" below mid-knee. A-line dress D has front and back darts, back zipper, length is mid-calf. Slim fitting skirt E has front and back darts, back zipper and back slit, length is 2" below mid-knee. A-line skirt F has front and back darts, back zipper, length is mid-calf. All garments are lined.
Pattern Sizing:F5 16-18-20-22-24
What do you like about this pattern:
First this is a super easy super quick pattern. My alterations were simple and the fabric really made the design. I am anxious to made something dress/skirt to go with it.
What alterations did you make:
I added a 3.5" FBA to the size 20 - Could have made the 16 or 18
Lowered the hem and addition 1/2 "
Cut a size smaller in the Back
Added Hair Canvas to the Hem
Added a back stay
exapanded the sleeves 1/2" on each side
Added a Back Vent
Will you sew it again:
YES and will use another elaborate fabric to showcase.
Conclusion: More notes and photos on My Blog
12-19-12 : Today I made most of my alterations.
1. After ripping apart the jacket at the back and shoulders i pressed the back and flatten the seams and ripped out the stitching. Next i pinned the center back seam so that it was even and then laid the old piece on top. I then removed 6" in from the back. Do you see the strip there on the right...That is the piece i cut off.
2 I added Hair Canvas interfacing to the hem on the sleeves & back.
3. added a back stay of a remnant piece of muslin
4. Added a Vent to the Center Back seam
After these changes I stitched it together at the side seams. Next i decided to add canvas to the hem of the sleeves and to then sew them in flat. I hate setting-in sleeves!!! Next i stitched the side-seam and sleeve seam as one. Tried it on and WOW! what a difference this jacket actually fits!. I pinned the lining back to the collar and will sew that tomorrow. I am undecided about lining the sleeves. the jacket fits so well i am just not sure if that is what i want to do. Becuase the facing is already interfaced and i have ZERO extra fabric i have decided to just interface with canvas where the buttons & button holes will be. If you look at the photos below you will see a sample of the buttons i will use. Now that i am seeing the button on the jacket i am not sure it's fancy enough for this silver fabric.
12-16-12: Now I cut out my pattern pieces with my adjustments from part one. There aren't many but again my goal is to take my time and control my sewing ADD. Here are the tools I used.
1 rotary cutter
1 pair of super sharp sisccors.
1 80/11needle. Now this fabric is a jacquard and is thick and as you will learn later stretchy according to the rules I should use a 90-14 needle but I decided not too can't explain why. But it seemed right
2 spools of gutterum white polyester thread
1 spool of silk thread
I decided to mark my sewing lines and darts etc. by machine. I used black cotton thread and a white bobbin. I marked in black on the wrong side of the fabric. I forgot to add in my last post that I had to lengthen the front facing 4" so that it matched.
Next I interfaced using the Pelion easy tailor fusible. Now please note I recently purchased the book Tailoring - creating the perfect jacket. And I now realize I used the wrong interfacing. But It's ok I will fix the stability later. I pressed the fusible interfacing to the collar stand front facing and hem of the jacket and sleeves. ( this is where I truly needed a different weight interfacing)
So now it's time to sew. For this first attempt I think I will use the written instructions.
12-15-12: I started working on Butterick B5417 last weekend. I am determined to do an excellent job as this fabric is very expensive and my sewing A D D is strong and there are so many things I want to do on my sew-vacation the week of the 24th.
On to the jacket
To start I decided to make my fitting changes. I am starting with a size 20. However as I type this 3 days later I should start with an 16 or 18. I am making my typical adjustments. First I traced the pattern onto vellum.
- 3.5" FBA ( I am now using with success the slash and spread method by "fit for real people". I was using the pivot and slide by nancy zieman but I like the slash and spread more. They each give the same results). This FBA created a side bust dart. I like the idea of the shaping because this is a very simple boxy jacket.
-next I lowered the waist an additional 1/2". On butterick and vogue I have to make a 4" waist adjustment. And this because of my large tata's.
- I then did another pin fit. I do these by myself and maybe I need to start video taping because as you will see later my adjustments were off by 6" in the back.
- next I did a 3" broad back adjustment ( later you will see that this was w a a a y too much).
After this I made a muslin. I sewed the darts and side-seams and shoulders. After that i test fit. The muslin fit ok so I finalized my adjustments and laid out my fabric. On to cutting we go.
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beautiful jacket perfect for the Holidays and Spring. Have fun on your sew vacation!!!!!
12/22/12 9:42 AM
Cool fabric...your jacket really looks great.
12/22/12 10:42 AM
Beautiful fabric! Great jacket!
12/22/12 8:59 PM