Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Sewaholic Patterns: 1203 (Thurlow Trousers) - Type:Pants |
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Review rated Very Helpful
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|Member since: 5/7/10 |
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|Favored by: 54 people|
|patterns reviewed: 127|
|Posted on:||12/21/12 10:12 PM |
|Last Updated:||12/29/12 10:00 PM|
Sewaholic Patterns Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
|See other patterns in this category: Shorts Pants |
|Available for sale on PR: $17.98 (See envelope) |
|Fabric:||Wool Crepe [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Update: I made this again using a medium weight non-stretch denim. I'm happy to report it looks and feels just as good in a fabric with some body to it as it does in a fabric with drape. It makes a very nice looking trouser jean! Here is my original version out of the icky wool.|
Pattern Description: Fitted trousers and shorts feature front fly closure, slash front pockets and a back extension for easy
alteration. Trousers and shorts sit below natural waistline with
contoured waistband. View A trousers are slightly flared. View B
shorts can be worn cuffed or straight, with an optional grosgrain
The pants have a 33.5" inseam and sit a couple of inches below my navel.
Pattern Sizing:0-16. I made an 8 with almost no adjustments.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?Very easy. I was good and actually followed them because the fly is a little different from most patterns and there's a certain order you need to follow for the waistband and CB seam construction. I had never done a welt pocket before and I used only the pattern instructions, and I don't think they came out too bad! I didn't even do a practice pocket - that's how much I trusted the instructions.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes: The fit. The fit was nearly perfect out of the envelope with only a couple of minor tweaks. These pants feel like they were custom made for me!
I love the general style. The waist is neither too high nor too low, and the zipper is set low enough so that they are easy to take on and off (which is a huge problem I have with most pants). I also appreciate how Tasia included both front and back pockets and pocket facing pieces, which gives it a finished, RTW look. I hate how so many patterns leave out pockets and/or pocket facings! The CB extension and how the waistband is attached make it really easy to adjust the waist even after they are finished. The front waistband has a little concealed button to help it stay closed and helps keep some of the tension off the hook and eye closure.
Another nice touch is there's notches to help you line things up, but not a crazy amount of markings like BVM patterns have. No tailor tacking needed, just a bit of chalk transfer paper for the darts and back extension stitching line.
I didn't dislike anything about this pattern. The only thing I would change would be to extend the back welt pocket bag another couple of inches. It is very shallow (less than 3" deep).
Fabric Used: An awful wool crepe purchased from Fabric.com in 2008. It is on the thin side, wrinkles like crazy, and I hate the color. That's why I decided it would make a good sacrifice for this pattern...I wouldn't be too upset if things didn't go right. For the lining I used some scraps from a cotton shirt I made.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
For style I left off the belt loops because originally I intended for these to be a test run. I also did a 1.5" instead of 1.75" hem for a tiny bit of extra length. I don't really wear heels with pants that much so 33.75" was the perfect inseam length for me.
Extended the CB out to the size 12 line at the top (about 1/2").
Moved the legs inward 3/8" on both the front and back pieces and true the seams (ie subtracting from the outer seam between upper thigh and knee and adding the outside subtracted amount to the inseam between upper thigh and knee). This is a common adjustment I have to make with pants as I have wide hips with a significant angle from upper thigh to knee. The legs on pants patterns are usually set too far apart for me, so unless I adjust I end up with massive diagonal wrinkles from upper thigh to knee in the back. With some patterns I have to shift the leg inward as much as 1" but since these are drafted for a pear shaped figure I decided to be conservative with this adjustment.
After trying them on I felt like the thighs were a bit too loose, so I took in the outer side seam 1/2" (removing a total of 1") between the hip and knee.
Once I had the pants completed and wore them around a little bit I felt like the waist was slightly loose, so I took it in a total of 1/2" in the CB fitting extension. They feel perfect now!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, this is going to be my TNT pants pattern. I highly recommend this pattern if you are pear shaped, meaning you have about a 12"-13" difference between waist and hip, a round bottom, and heavier thighs.
Conclusion: I was NEVER able to make a pair of pants out of the envelope without tons of adjustments until I tried this pattern.
I am also glad I finally decided to conquer my fear of welt pockets, which turned out to be not to be as scary as people make them out to be!
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