Au Bonheur des Petites Mains: 0134152 (Pantalon droit avec découpes) - Type:Pants  | | Viewed 235 times
| 3 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 3 people | | Reviewed by: | Dilliander | 
 | About Dilliander | | AUSTRALIA | | Member since: 11/28/08 | | Reviews written: 69 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 70 people | | patterns reviewed: 66 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 12/30/12 3:05 AM | | Last Updated: | 12/30/12 3:25 AM | | Project Photo: |  | | | | Fabric: | Linen [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
Funky yoked jeans with deep front pockets, knee insets and darted back pockets
Pattern Sizing: 38
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
A little but one of the distinctive design features of these jeans is the knee patches and I left them off this version. The styling is also different and more like a trouser in the thinner fabric.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are in French but as I have made lots of jeans before the order of construction was not difficult to understand.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I was looking for a loose boy friend style pair of summer trouser jeans in linen or cotton for SWAP 2013, so decided to see if I could adapt this pattern to a thinner drapier fabric.
Fabric Used:
The first beige pair was in 100% cotton from Tessuti and the brown linen was from Fabric-A-Brac.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I used the same pattern (including the adjustments) used for the denim pair, then redrafted the lower leg to exclude the knee pieces.
The first pair, while wearable, was not the best fit at the back. So for the brown linen pair I also took a dart just under the back crotch to remove some of the excess fabric (a technique suggested by Sandra Betzina in her Fast Fit book p225 Option 2).
Fit comparision
Grainlines were redrawn after final changes were made.
Construction notes
For the first beige cotton pair I used:
* Matching topstitching in regular cotton
* Tripple stitch used for yoke detail, otherwise regular stitch
* Pockets stitched in place (as per pattern — this detail was left off the original denim jeans)
* Back crotch curve and pocket opening reinforced with fusible stay tape (to limit stretching)
* Side seams taken in 0.5 cm due to lighter fabric
* Waistband facing is a quilting cotton reinforced with Armoweft medium weight fusible interfacing
Due to the lighter weight cotton fabric used I was unsure how these would turn out, since they are designed for denim. However, the result is a wonderfully comfortable and stylish pair of casual summer pants. The only disappointment was that extra reinforcement is needed on the fly front and waistband and of course, the fit is slightly different in the lighter fabric.
For the second brown linen pair I used the same pattern but this time with the Sandra Betzina adjustment. In addition:
* Pocket was given extra stability using organza selvage (this provided a stronger reinforcement than the fusible bias seam tape used on the beige pair)
* Jeans fly was interfaced with Pro-Weft fusible for extra stability and a neater finish
* Waistband and facing were both fused with pro-weft interfacing
Finished photos
Front view
Back view
Front pockets
Topstitching on yoke
Jeans fly
Back pockets
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, the linen pair are a great fit and so comfortable. Now that I have the pattern perfected the next pair will have contrasting top-stitching, as this really makes the design details pop.
Conclusion:
Both these lightweight summer trousers were made from a jeans pattern yet it really suits the linen/cotton. The yokes in particular are a nice feature not usually seen on trousers and I suspect you could use any non-stretch jeans pattern to achieve a similar effect (with a bit of tweeking). Unfortunately this particular pattern is no longer available but Hot Patterns have a slouchy trouser jean pattern I am looking forward to trying, and some of the Au Bonheur details, such as the pockets and even front yoke stitching could be incorporated into other styles.
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12 Comments
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You are so good at sewing pants. Both pairs are stunning. The fit is excellent and the standard of sewing superb.
12/30/12 3:33 AM
Great looking and perfect fit. The little dart taken out at the back makes a difference, thought I did think your first version was fitting very well already.
12/30/12 4:43 AM
Beautifully finished and a great fit - love the colour of the fabric also!
12/30/12 4:58 AM
Beautifully done both pairs, I had the same fly wavy look on my last pair of pants I made and wondered why did that happen??? Sandra Betzina adjustment taking out some bagginess works for me too. Your so right changing the fabric you still need to tweek the pattern. The details on this pattern are all so cool. You got some perfectly fitted pants Dilliander!!!!!
12/30/12 9:20 AM
Fantastic jeans and as always wonderful sewing techniques and details!!! These look really nice on you.
12/30/12 10:56 AM
Beautiful workmanship as always. Great review and fantastic lookin pants!
12/30/12 11:27 AM
Gret looking jeans and fit! I love the color, too.
12/30/12 3:06 PM
What great pants. Beautifully sewn and lovely fabric. Looks great on you. Both pairs are fab - it's great to see your SWAP progressing.
12/30/12 3:43 PM
Two impressive pairs of pants. Well done.
12/31/12 4:00 AM
wow these look fantastic - the stitching is perfect
12/31/12 4:15 AM
Love your linen versions! Great work perfecting the fit over a couple of versions.
1/1/13 8:34 PM
These look amazing, you have done a wonderful job on transferring the style to linen.
1/5/13 0:59 AM