Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|StyleArc: Melissa Blouse (Melissa Blouse) - Type:Tops |
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Review rated Very Helpful
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|About clothingengineer |
|Member since: 5/7/10 |
|Reviews written: 130|
|Favored by: 51 people|
|patterns reviewed: 121|
|Posted on:||12/31/12 10:38 PM |
|Pattern Size:||Plus-Sized Regular |
StyleArc Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Recommend, with Modifications |
|Fabric:||Poplin [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|My last review for 2012!|
Pattern Description: Fitted woven shirt with horizontal bust darts and vertical back waist darts. Out of the envelope the back neck to hem measurement is 26".
Pattern Sizing: 6-22. I made an 8.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Somewhat. The fit, yes. However the cuffs are much longer than what the line drawing or fashion illustration show.
Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't really use them, though I did peek at the instructions for the collar. I like how they have you fold over the seam allowance of the inner collar stand before you stitch it to the collar and neck - much easier than doing this after stitching the outer collar stand to the shirt! The fact that they include 1/4" seam allowances for the collar and collar stand makes sewing it much easier. I did trim the outer edge of the collar and sides of the collar stand by 1/8" to allow for turn of cloth.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes: Great fit - to me it is what "fitted blouse" means. I also like how the darts are on the grain, which means few to no adjustments out of the envelope for stripes or checks! There was also plenty of ease in the sleeves and I only had to add a little width (1/2"). The collar is nice in how it gently curves down in the back instead of going straight across, and the extra-long length means it stays tucked in. It is perfect for striped or checked fabric.
Dislikes: The bust darts were higher than I expected and the cuffs were LONG. They are 4"! The line drawing does not accurately represent this at all so my sleeves ended up being too long. I didn't want to mess with this after I finished it so I folded them over to create a double cuff and will call it a design feature .
Fabric Used: Lightweight but crisp Egyptian cotton (a December 2011 Fabric Mart purchase). It was a dream to work with.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
None with design, other than using my own sleeve placket piece from DPC's Shirtmaking book instead of the StyleArc one and cutting the collar, cuffs, and sleeve placket on the bias for a little bit of visual interest. Next time though I would cut the length of the cuffs in half, which would make them look more like the envelope drawing.
- Lengthened the waist 2" (out of envelope, the back waist is 14.5")
- Lengthened the sleeves 1"
- Added 1/2" width to the sleeves at the bicep/elbow
- 1/2" broad back adjustment in both width and length
- Raised the armholes 1/2"
- Added 4 1/8" to the hips, though I ended up needing only half this amount
- Very small sloped shoulder adjustment (1/4") as I find StyleArc runs square
Next time I would do a 3/8" broad shoulder adjustment. (The actual shoulder measurement for size 8 is 4.75".) I will also lower the bust dart by 1/2" to 3/4".
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, it is a nice classic shirt pattern, though it may be difficult if you haven't done a collared button-down shirt before.
Conclusion: A great pattern for striped and checked fabric that fits just like it looks on the envelope!
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