Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|: LD-5-PTD-1 (Heidi Marsh Polonaise 1861) - Type:Costumes |
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|About RachelStonebreaker |
|Member since: 8/30/08 |
|Reviews written: 10|
|patterns reviewed: 10|
|Posted on:||1/5/13 4:07 PM |
Pattern Info provided by RachelStonebreaker
|Pattern Rating:||Recommend, with Modifications |
|Fabric:||Cotton [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Pattern Description: 1861 Polonaise Traveling Dress Heidi Marsh pattern LD-5-PTD-1 from Peterson|
Pattern Sizing: It comes multi-sized with two sizes per package. This was a 16-18 or a Large. All Heidi Marsh patterns are styled according to the 1860's body shape - translated - you need a corset and don't expect to do heavy athletics as the sleeves are dropped and there is no wearing ease built in. Saying that, this particular pattern is a "wrapper" so it fits looser than a classic 1860s dress AND this one runs big, even for a Heidi Marsh pattern. You must make a muslin of the bodice to ensure a proper fit.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, with modifications. No on-line resource has a good representation of the pic that comes with the pattern, even Amazon Dry Goods, who sells it. The pattern insert has a very nice looking drawing from an original period magazine. The dress winds up looking fairly much like the drawing, except the sleeves are not nearly as wide at the cuff as the drawing and the collar is a little different. Heidi Marsh did mention she modified the sleeves in her version from the original because she liked her sleeves better. I don't know, I think I like the wider original sleeves and cuffs better.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Heidi Marsh patterns are notorious for their lack of instructions. This is no exception. As one pattern reviewer on the Greater Bay Area Costume Guild put it, there were 3 pages on how to make piping and just 2 paragraphs on how to put this dress together. But, of all the Heidi Marsh patterns I've made, this one is the easiest.
You have to guess at the layout. The insert recommends a few hints but really, try it out yourself. Before you buy your material, I'd recommend laying out your pattern pieces several ways on your living room floor simulating 45" and 60" fabric because you can wind up wasting a lot of fabric and/or running short if you're not careful. The instructions say "About 8 Yards of 45" material". ZZZZZZZZTTTT! Wrong. I bought 8 yards and could not, no matter what I did, cut out the full skirt with the pleat. I wound up cutting off the pleats and making a much narrower skirt, as is an option on this dress. It was fine as I was not wearing a hoop and had a requirement for a reduced skirt width anyway. I think 8 yards of 60" would work for the wider skirt.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
My favorite part about this dress is no waist seam. It is very flowing. It got lots of compliments as a "comfortable and pretty" dress.
Other pros: It is a wrapper so the bodice is not boned. You don't have to put in bust pads to get the "correct" silhouette for a corseted bust. It's very simple to dress yourself as it buttons from neck to hem and you don't have to fight to get into it. My sister made this for a period riding outfit and does not wear a corset with it at all. She DID remake the sleeves by adding width to both the armscye and the sleeve at the underarm seam.
Another plus is this pattern includes a pattern for undersleeves. I recommend making them and the optional collar in a white or off-white to match your fabric. They look very stylish.
Cons: Same with ALL Heidi Marsh patterns, you need to know how to layout, alter, sew, and you MUST make a muslin. Because of the 1860's style, you won't get by with just "walking" your seams to make sure the pieces all work together.
Fabric Used: I used a dark green cotton calico with an underlining of solid green cotton. I underlined the entire dress and used self-fabric for facing the center front and the cuffs.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I feared this pattern would be too small for me. I've made more than a half dozen Victorian patterns from different pattern companies for myself following pattern sizing and every single one of them is 2 inches too small in the waist and about 4 inches too small in the bust. This is AFTER I put on a corset! I made a rough estimate of the total size (she doesn't give seam widths so I picked 1/2") and the pattern measured exactly my measurements. Just to be on the safe side, I added 1" total. What a mistake. I wound up taking out 4" total from the back and side seams. I should have done a full bust alteration though, because, after my modification, even with a corset (or maybe because of the corset), it's a tad tight in the bust. I took the same amount out everywhere because I'd already made the dress and couldn't easily take some from here and some from there. Hmmm... lesson learned, MAKE A MUSLIN, even if short on time. NOTE: this is sized for a high bust. My sister wears a tight sports bra with hers, I wear a corset.
I'm tall, so I added 1" in length to the bodice. That worked out well. The skirt itself, though, was 6" too long. My sister needed the length as period riding dresses must cover your shoes when you are in saddle so we didn't really think about the skirt length when I made mine. I did not wear a hoop with this, just fluffy petticoats, so I think with a hoop, this would have been fine. I'm 5'8". If you're short, you may want to shorten the skirt.
I had to cut out the pleats. I did not have enough fabric. My sister had about 16 yards when she made hers. She actually ADDED two extra pleats in the back. Wow, it looks good with the pleats.
You have to decide on your own button spacing. I used 22 on the front spacing them 1.5".
The collar does not look like the one in the picture. Heidi Marsh makes hers very Peter Pan like. If I were making a new collar, I'd make it half the width and point the front instead of rounding it.
The cuffs, in my opinion are not wide enough. They don't look like the picture at all. I think she was afraid they'd be too heavy or too floppy or something but I'd make them wider. My sister did, and they look better. I'd also do like the picture and make the pseudo cuff just on the front sleeve instead of what Heidi Marsh recommends which is to make a cuff sewn onto the front sleeve and a cuff sewn onto the back sleeve and then sew the sleeves together. Her cuff edges don't match up and look bad because of this. (another lesson- I make muslins just of the critical parts and don't consider the decorative cuffs part of this, my bad).
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will probably sew it again for my daughter because it is a comfortable all-day costume. When we work the Dickens fair in San Francisco, we must be in costume for over 10 hours. This looks nice and is comfortable.
I'd love to consider putting embellishments on this dress and wearing it with a hoop. I think that would jazz it up significantly.
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