Japanese Pattern Books: Shape Shape French Seamed (Shape Shape French Seamed blou) - Type:Tops  | | Viewed 278 times
| 1 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 8 people | | Reviewed by: | Dilliander | 
 | About Dilliander | | AUSTRALIA | | Member since: 11/28/08 | | Reviews written: 68 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 68 people | | patterns reviewed: 65 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 1/9/13 7:05 PM | | Last Updated: | 1/9/13 8:06 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | Japanese Pattern Books Pattern Info More Info provided by Dilliander | | | | Fabric: | Linen [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
A simple (but not so simple) reversible French sleeved blouse with underarm gusset, an interesting beautifully shaped neckline and button closure.
Shape Shape describe this top as "Button the blouse in the front for a traditional look, or button it at the back for a fun alternative. For a playful twist use different fabrics for the facings. The detail will peek out from the inside and around the collar."
Pattern Sizing:
I originally traced a medium based on the earlier Shape Shape sleeveless scarf blouse I'd made from the same book. However a quick muslin prooved the small was a better fit, with only minor adjustments.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, it does.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were great, English descriptions and lots of illustrations for the different aspects of construction.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The design is simple, elegant and a little different to your normal sleevesless top, but mostly I admired the lovely versions made by mm and Carolyn (who has pioneered Shape Shape fashion).
Fabric Used:
100% linen for the main top and a crisp cotton for the contrast facings. Both were small remnant pieces.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The only changes needed to the smaller size were:
* square shoulder adjustment
* 2.5cm extra length (reduced 3cm hem to 2.5cm)
Construction notes
This version uses 1cm seam allowances and faux flat felled seams (overlocked and top-stitched) an easy construction as a wearable muslin to assess fit, although it actually looks quite nice with the faux finish. If no further adjustments are needed after I've given it the wear test, then the next version I may try the beautiful true flat felled seams shown in the Shape Shape book (requires retracing with different seam allowances).
Collar points achieved using Pam's perfect collar points tutorial my go-to way of doing these now, thanks Pam!
Facings are interfaced with Pro-Weft fusible and top-stitched in place which (together with the shaping built into the pattern) creates the beautiful collar effect. This pops into place once the deep facings are secured.
Front facing top-stitched (creates and supports shaping at collar)
Back facings top-stitched
The lovely buttons are from Tessuti (the give-away sign of a handcrafted garment imo)
Underarm gusset (also sleeve binding finish and faux felled top-stitched seams)
Finished photos
Front view with French sleeves and CF topstitched seam (that forms shaping in collar)
Back view
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes to both, I'm another fan of Shape Shape.
Conclusion:
Deceptively simple, the charm in this pattern is its lovely shaping that is drafted into the pattern, not surprising as Natsuno called her book Shape Shape! It's very economical with fabric, so great for small pieces, has some beautiful hidden details, such as the underarm gusset, is lovely to wear and makes a very cool (in every sense) summer top.
This top is in two of my favourite colours and the peek or burnt orange at the neckline is especially nice.
While it can be worn both ways my preference, or at least the way it sits best, is back to front with the buttons at CB.
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16 Comments
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What a beautiful blouse!
1/9/13 7:59 PM
Your top looks great. The orange facing and the special buttons make it really special. And thanks for the tip about the collar points. I am going to try that next time.
1/9/13 8:32 PM
Another great piece - and I love the blue scarf.
1/9/13 8:52 PM
Nice work Sandra. The facing is a great choice.
1/9/13 9:27 PM
Gorgeous blouse and my favourite colours as well.
1/9/13 10:39 PM
Lovely top! I especially like your choice of fabric.
1/10/13 4:41 AM
Sandra, you really sew such special garments. This is another great top. Your finishing is impeccable. LOVE it and think you've convinced me that I need it too.
1/10/13 5:54 AM
Stunning simplicity. Thank you for all the detailed pictures and the thorough review.
1/10/13 6:39 AM
Your top is lovely and the fabric perfect for it. I think this book might be next on my wish list!
1/10/13 8:22 AM
I llike you top, very nice.
1/10/13 8:43 AM
Beautiful!
1/10/13 11:06 AM
well made and oh so unique, you have one blouse you won't find on the racks.
1/10/13 12:16 PM
Lovely blouse.
1/10/13 5:32 PM
Simple elegance! What a great top :)
1/11/13 7:53 AM
Stunning! I love the different ways you've styled it in the photo.
1/12/13 3:45 AM
Beautiful blouse...lovely details! You did a great job and thanks for the interesting review!
2/16/13 5:32 PM