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McCall's: 5815 thumbsup - Type:Coat/Jacket    printable version
Viewed 732 times 12 more reviews
Review rated Very Helpful by 9 people   
Reviewed by:KG2
photo
Friend of PR
About KG2star
Member since: 2/19/08
Reviews written: 39
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 14 people
patterns reviewed: 39
Bio: more...
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Posted on:1/12/13 8:52 PM
Last Updated:1/12/13 9:03 PM
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Photo:McCall's 5815
McCall's Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
See other patterns in this category: Coat/Jacket    
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Fabric:Wool Tweed  [See other projects in this fabric]
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Pattern Description: OOP. Semi-fitted, lined jackets A, B, below waist, have shawl collar variations, princess seams, drapey patch pockets and shaped hemline; dress A has short sleeves with pleats; dress B has long, two-piece sleeves with slits and self-fabric flower.

Pattern Sizing: AX5(4-6-8-10-12), EE(14-16-18-20) I made view B. The non bow collar view and long sleeves. I used a combo of size 12/16 above chest and size 16/18 below chest.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Other than I used the pockets and sleeves from Butterick 4610, as I wanted a more traditional 2 part sleeve.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I did not really follow the pattern instructions. I was a bit intimidated by my fabric, I was using 100% wool for the first time and wanted to make sure that my make, was worth the fabric. I used a combo of mainly 2 reference books. Jackets for Real People, which is quite practical for construction and the one I followed most closely. Also, Basic Tailoring from Time Life books, 1974. It is for the home sewer with tailoring techniques explained and illustrated.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the pattern. Very classic shape and can be made for any season depending on view and fabric. I have made the short sleeve version with the bow previously, It turned out very well. Click Here


Fabric Used: 100 % wool tweed from Fabric.com Click Here

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I had previously made this pattern, so had already traced it out and altered the princess seams to fit me. I also swapped out the sleeves with Butterick 4610 to have a more traditional 2 part sleeve. I followed the tailoring techniques in my reference books, which included interfacing the main pieces , shoulder pads, a taped roll line Click Here

Inserting the sleeves via bias easing, Click Here

Bagging the lining Click Here

I formed the pleated collar to appear to be a double collar and them steamed it into that shape. Click Here

It was a lot of work and a lot of fun. Many more details can be found on my blog in a couple posts, from the type of interfacing I chose, to my sleeve drama. part 1 and Part 2

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I love this jacket, and would like it again in a corduroy.

Conclusion: I am not done with this jacket, as I have not decided what to do about the buttons yet. I have bought 4 different sets and can not make up my mind which to use.

*************
Edited to add final picture, I went with the dark wooden buttons. I love this jacket. I think all of the hard work and worry was well worth it!!
Click Here

KellysSewing blog Click Here
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28 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
SavageCoco said...
Absolutely Outstanding. Beautifully done.
1/10/13 9:40 PM
Sewiing Sue said...
The jacket is lovely! Your blog describes so well your steps ; the bias strip for a sleeve cap is so clever. The amount of fullness that was eased in is amazing. The double collar adds such a nice touch. Very helpful photos!
1/10/13 9:47 PM
becca a said...
What beautiful work! The photos are fantastic as are your explanations of your process.
1/11/13 10:12 AM
sewlovefabric said...
Just lovely ...nice job..the bias strip for the sleeve is great. I too use this method and works every time. Love the jacket
1/11/13 8:12 PM
jlg said...
Great jacket beautifully sewn.
1/12/13 5:35 AM
Leslie Bonner said...
Fantastic jacket. Those bias strips are excellent.
1/12/13 2:54 PM
Jstarr4250 said...
A truly beautiful jacket. The double collar is so pretty. Thank you for a great review full of tips and information.
1/12/13 9:20 PM
salsera7 said...
Perfection!
1/12/13 9:28 PM
regal80 said...
beautiful and inspiring, good job!
1/12/13 10:26 PM
Renata said...
What a lot of work but such a perfect result. I even photocopied your bias insertion method for the sleeve caps for reference. I am pleased I am not the only one who buys several sets of buttons for the one project - another stash in the making!
1/12/13 10:43 PM
Lori V said...
Your jacket is stunning.
1/13/13 1:12 AM
brissie71 said...
Wow! What a beautiful jacket. I can see this lasting years in your wardrobe!
1/13/13 2:42 AM
velosewer said...
I love the work you did on this jacket, especially the collar. Great job!
1/13/13 2:53 AM
GBK said...
What a fabulous jacket!
1/13/13 5:07 AM
jlg said...
Just wonderful.
1/13/13 6:26 AM
BillieJean said...
Gorgeous jacket! Well done.
1/13/13 6:27 AM
mnitts said...
Beautiful!
1/13/13 6:47 AM
Danvillegirl said...
Lovely jacket, great job!
1/13/13 8:16 AM
Amanda.Claire said...
Awesome!
1/13/13 8:31 AM
betty bushwacker said...
What a work of art! Thanks for being so detailed in your review.
1/13/13 8:44 AM
redside said...
Beautiful! What a gorgeous collar.
1/13/13 10:23 AM
PattyE said...
Really great jacket!
1/13/13 10:53 AM
dolcevita said...
How beautiful! The finish is perfect and the collar is wonderful.
1/13/13 1:37 PM
kws said...
Great jacket and the wool looks like it will complement so many outfits. Terrific sewing.
1/13/13 2:59 PM
Erin D said...
Impeccable work. Congratulations!
1/13/13 8:29 PM
2 Airedales n Me said...
What a shame this is OOP. Lucky you to have snagged it and made it into this head-turner! W.O.W.!!
1/13/13 8:40 PM
Lucy in Virginia said...
Simply stunning! Congratulations on such a great addition to you wardrobe!
1/13/13 8:52 PM
CurlyCrafter said...
absolutely gorgeous!
1/14/13 0:02 AM
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