McCall's: 6713 - Type:Dresses  | | Viewed 444 times
| 3 more reviews | Review rated Helpful by 1 people Very Helpful by 5 people | | Reviewed by: | Mazzygirl | 
| About Mazzygirl | | AUSTRALIA | | Member since: 4/28/10 | | Reviews written: 114 | | Sewing skills:Advanced | | Favored by: 36 people | | patterns reviewed: 114 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 1/13/13 6:26 AM | | Last Updated: | 1/13/13 6:34 AM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | 
McCall's Pattern InfoMore Info provided by Mazzygirl | | Pattern Rating: | Recommend, with Modifications | | See other patterns in this category: Dresses | Available for sale on PR: $14.21 (See envelope)  | | | | Fabric: | Poly-Lycra Knit [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description: MISSES'/WOMEN'S DRESSES: Dresses have shoulder pads, close-fitting, bias, self-lined front bodice with gathered shoulders and right side, tucked left side, pleated drape, and stitched hems. C and D: close-fitting through hips.
Designed for two-way stretch knits.
SUGGESTED FABRICS: Rayon/Spandex, Cotton/Spandex.
Pattern Sizing: B5(8-10-12-14-16) & RR(18W-20W-22W-24W)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? yes
Were the instructions easy to follow? yes, but.......
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? one of the recently released patterns by McCalls, I fell in love with the wrap top & drape feature of the skirt & had to buy it straight away....
However once the pattern arrived & I looked at the instructions, it was immediately apparent that there were going to be issues with the amount of bulk at the waist line seam where the drape was attached.
Fabric Used: a slinky knit fabric, the thinnest I could find (from my stash).
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I wanted to trial this pattern first in something I wasn't too worried about before making up in my preferred fabric as I had major misgivings about how bulky the drape seam was going to be at the waistline...... So for this version I made it up as per the pattern, including all the understitching on the bodice pieces....
Those misgivings turned out to be correct, as the drape is made of doubled fabric, then pleated 4 times at the waist. So in places you have 6-8 layers of fabric.
You then sew this to another 4 layers of bodice fabric at the waist seam (as the bodice is fully lined), which is then supposed to be turned down & stitched to the skirt for an elastic casing.
Even in my thin fabric this was way bulkier than I would have liked.
AND, because I had used such a lightweight fabric, the skirt could have really done with a lining as well, as it shows a few more bumps than I'd like to display (which would add even more layers!!).
I didn't bother with shoulder pads as they were not neccessary.
Overall its still wearable (with a slip), in fact it looks really nice on (with a belt), so it wasn't a complete waste of time & fabric..... (& a non-sewer probably wouldn't pick the issues I had).
but I will make the following changes when I make up in my 'good' fabric:
1. drafted facing for the armholes (due to the tight curve of the opening on the front bodice) which I will trim back close to the stitching once its topstitched....
2. turn under the seam allowance & topstitch the neckline edge. (I could also do a facing, but prefer a turned under hem)
3. drape made of a single layer & hemmed (or serged rolled hem, depending on fabric choice). To do this I will need to choose a fabric that looks similar on the wrong side as it will show.
These changes, although minimal, will reduce the amount of fabric required (why line a dress in self-fabric???? I don't get that) & reduce the bulk at the waist seam.
4. if I use a fabric that I think would need a lining (such as a mesh knit), I will use a lighter weight lining fabric instead of self fabric, & then also line the skirt. However if possible I will do the drape in a single layer.
The other thing I find odd with this pattern is that there are long sleeve versions as well, so what fabric could you use that would be warm without the bulk? Although in theory this is a very well made pattern (because of the full lining on the bodice & drape) this IMO makes it very limiting with your fabric choices.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will sew this again, however will make modifications as per above.
I would also make this pattern without the drape (& no seam in front skirt peice) as I like the wrap style & cap sleeve.
I would only recommend making this with modifications as described above.
Conclusion: I like the cap sleeves & the wrap top, & it fits me very nicely (my daughter is modelling this for me as my dressmakers dummy has expired, & it is clearly too big for her), however not overly fussed with having a fully lined bodice (especially not self-lined) & the bulk at the wasit seam from the drape.
If a lining is absolutely necessary, I would find a much lighter weight fabric to use for this to reduce bulkiness.
I will make this again but with major modifications to counter the issues I had with this one.
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8 Comments
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Thank you for this great review on this pretty dress.
1/13/13 7:03 AM
Lovely dress. Thank you.
1/13/13 10:00 AM
Looks pretty good. Nice fabric, I love the color. Thanks for the informative review.
1/13/13 12:18 PM
very nice
1/14/13 3:23 AM
Very pretty and great detailed instructions too! Your modifications worked out perfect!
1/14/13 8:01 AM
Thanks for the great review! I just cut this out last night...crossing my fingers the drape bulk won't be too much for my ITY!
1/25/13 2:00 PM
Thank you so much for the review. I've just cut this out - without the drape. I did cut the front in 2 pieces, but made the seam at the center front. I didn't have enough fabric to self line - glad to know it isn't necessary. Your dress is lovely. g
1/26/13 8:08 PM
Very pretty dress! I am planning on making this dress very soon and your review was very helpful. Thank you.
2/2/13 11:14 AM