|Pattern Description: |
Misses' Project Runway princess-seam dress comes with several options: plain center front, side pleat surplice center front, choice of sleeves, optional neckline flounce on the crossover version, and what looks like a cowl neckline.
I chose the crossover center front. I used my generic woven sleeve and added the cuff from vintage Simplicity 6110.
4-20. I cut a 6 at the shoulders and bust, 10 at the waist, and 12 at the hip. I ended up taking in the waist a fair amount, and the hip little--they probably ended up size 6 and 10, respectively. The bust fit was pretty spot on (with my SBA).
A printed denim purchased in NYC for $6/yd.
Total cost, including pattern and notions: around $16.
Time to Make:
This went surprisingly smoothly, though I did have to do a little thinking about construction and do a pin fit. Probably 9 hours.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The front pleats are a great detail, and flattering for a larger tummy (though they could be a little lower).
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, although I changed out the sleeve and cuff.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were fine, though I went my own way.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
First: There is a printing error on the pattern. What appears to be the lower bust-matching notch on the side front is actually the position of the small dot, which indicates where the crossover front edge is matched. The lower bust-matching marking is just missing. However, I didn't have any trouble getting the bust right (which is partly due to my small bust adjustment, which shaved some width off the side front bust curve, reducing the necessary easing).
I used tailor's tacks to mark the joining point for the crossover at the front princess seams. The matchup was easier than I expected it to be and didn't require any fussing or adjustments.
-Before cutting, I did the small bust adjustment by shaving off some curve on the side front bust and shortening the front crossover by about 3/4 of an inch. I did a broad back adjustment andadded neck darts to deal with the gapey back neck. I also did a swayback adjustment, though the back is still definitely not perfect.
-Because I was sewing with a fairly beefy denim, I used bias tape finish to the neckline rather than a facing, which would have been very bulky. Note that the neckline must be finished before you can sew the front/side front seam.
This pattern's one downside is that it would be very difficult to line, and the lining would have to be caught up in the front princess seam, at least for some distance. So you have a lining that is either not free floating and could distort your fashion fabric in wearing, or a very ugly inside. I think the best solution would be an underlining.
-I have been really dissatisfied with the tops of my invisible zippers lately. I cannot get a nice straight-across look for the life of me. Since the neckline here is large enough to pull over my head, I installed the zipper a few inches below the neckline, closed the neckline up above the zipper, and then finished it with the bias tape.
I know it sounds like a cop-out to say the dress looks better in person than in photos, but trust me, this dress is DYNAMITE in person. We were having an unusual fog when the photos were taken, so the lighting is weird and I feel emphasizes the wrinkling of the denim.
When I finished this my first thought was, "OMG, I can't wait to make another one of these!"
All photos are here and the blog post is here.