Misses' offset neck cowl long sleeved top with one-sided gathers and center zip back. Burda Pattern 118B
I made 118B which is the full length sleeve top version. There are other versions of this pattern -118A is a 3/4 length sleeve dress, 117 is a blouse with zippered sleeves and slightly different front.
Euro 34-42. I made a size 40 for a 36" bust which worked great. I ended up adding a 5/8" seam allowance and used it everywhere except the sides where I added the 5/8" but only used 1/4" since I wanted a little more ease there.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. Very much so.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. It doesn't get easier than this for Burda as this is a supplemented sewing course.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the different take on the cowl-type neck. The offset neck line is neat and mirrors the side the gathers are on....very cool. This is very figure flattering and love that it is a woven.
I dislike that Burda did not add appropriate wearing ease to the lower sleeve for this particular version of the pattern. I tried this on after finishing it and had no issues whatsoever with fit. The sleeve was roomy but slenderizing (is that a word?) and seemed extremely well-drafted however after the first wear of this, the lower right sleeve pulled out a full inch out from the stabilized serged seam. I went back and looked at the Burda magazine. 118A (Dress) has 3/4 length sleeves so no issues for it, 117 uses zippers and uses the same pattern however Burda made no amendments for 118B which caused me grief as I had to rip out the sleeves, buy more fabric and redo the sleeve with some adjustments (see alterations below). My fabric oddly enough wouldn't fray or pull apart from the seam when I tried to force it manually so I believe it had to be solely due to wearing ease. I was also shopping at the time so not like it was heavy duty wear either! LOL!
A polyester textured mini-eyelash fabric from JoAnn Fabrics from their Tribe Vibe collection. It is an AWESOME looking fabric. I had people stop me throughout the store commenting on it and even up through checkout. On sale I got it for $4-5/yard...pretty good deal.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I added 1 5/8" for the hem however only used 1" of it. I prefer the longer length. I did use the full 1 5/8" hem for the sleeves however.
- I underlined everything (with a poly pongee) except for the sleeves (which I ended up doing later) because my fabric was semi-sheer.
- I added Stay Tape to the armholes and shoulder seams for stabilization.
- To address the wearing ease issue with the lower half of the sleeve (after I had finished it and ripped the lower sleeve on wear), I ended up cutting new sleeves, adding fusible lightweight weft interfacing to the sleeves and Stay Tape to the entire length of the sleeve seam when serging and took a smaller seam allowance (providing 3/8" inch extra) than I allocated to help provide extra ease. In hindsight I should have redrafted the sleeve and allocated more ease just to the lower half of the sleeve where the issue was. My sleeve is a little large at the top part but after having to redo the sleeves, I'm okay with this and can take the top part in later.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would absolutely sew this again - great top and really looks sharp. It is a well-drafted pattern with the exception of the lower sleeve for 118B. I STRONGLY recommend that you allocate more wearing ease to the lower portion of the sleeves if you do not add zippers (which 118B does not have) and use a woven. You don't need much since the sleeves weren't tight at all without it, however the style of this just needs slightly more wearing ease in wovens. I plan on going back and redrafting the lower portion of the sleeve for the next one I make. Also keep in mind that you have a back zipper with this top that requires some flexibility in getting in and out of the top (and extra ease in the sleeve as well although this isn't how I ripped it initially).