Lutterloh: XL-XXL- 58 (Gathered dress) - Type:Plus  | | Viewed 88 times
| | Review rated Very Helpful by 1 people | | Reviewed by: | PatCSM | 
| About PatCSM | | MS USA | | Member since: 5/8/07 | | Reviews written: 33 | | Sewing skills:Advanced Beginner | | Favored by: 6 people | | patterns reviewed: 23 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 1/23/13 3:06 PM | | Pattern Size: | Plus-Sized | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | Pattern Info provided by PatCSM | | | | Fabric: | Cotton Blend [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
Lutterloh does not provide a description, so this is mine - Knee length gathered dress with short sleeves. Has a back yoke and a 2-part front yoke forming a Vee. Both yokes have facings. NO POCKETS! Variation of pattern XL-XXL #57.
I plan to use this as a nightgown.
Pattern Sizing:
Lutterloh relies on drafting your own pattern from a small template using your bust and hip measurements.
Mine is about a 4X in RTW.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except I didn't use the sleeves.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
No instructions are included so you have to figure it out for yourself. I will post mine below.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
No dislikes.
Fabric Used:
This is my muslin, so I used an old sheet.
Drafting:
The hemline for the shorter length dress is not marked with dots but is based on the length for the longer dress. I drew the hemline points for the longer length, then measured with a tape measure 28 cm straight up and marked the dots. Just for my own information I measured from them to the cross. For the back the dots are both at 65. For the front the side seam is at 65 and the center front is at 68.5.
I labeled the following dots to aid in matching pieces:
A on front yoke and facings and dress front
B on yoke and dress front
C on back yoke and dress back
D on back yoke and dress back
The back yoke is marked 2x which I took to mean the yoke is lined, however it also is marked for a facing, so I didn't line it.
Narrative:
I started out using my high bust measurement for all the dots on the yoke since I have narrow shoulders and maybe a narrow high chest. This did not look good in the muslin, so I redrafted using my "Lutterloh bust measurement."
I had a mental block about the front facings and kept thinking the area should be folded as a self facing. When I stopped and read the information on facings in the eBook (available from the NZ site) I realized I needed to cut separate facings.
Order of construction -
Lutterloh does not include instructions on how to assemble items. This is the order I used.
1. Facings and yokes-
a. Stitch front facings to back facing. Serge. Press seam allowances toward the back.
b. Clean finish (serge) the long edge of the facings that won't be in a seam.
c. Yokes - stitch front yokes to back yoke at shoulder seams. Serge. Press toward the front.
d. Stitch facings to yokes matching shoulder seams and dot A. Trim seam and clip curves. Turn right side out and press.
2. Front
a. Sew 2 lines of gathering stitch on top edge of dress front from point A to point B.
b. Baste front yoke pieces together across overlap at dot A.
c. Gather front onto front yoke, matching points A and points B and distributing the gathers evenly. [Question - would it look better to gather more over "the girls" and less in the CF? Not sure.] Baste. Sew. Serge.
3. Back
a. Sew 2 lines of basting stitch on top edge of dress back from point D all the way across to the other point D.
b Gather back onto back yoke, matching points C and points D and distributing the gathers evenly. Baste. Sew. Serge.
4. Sew front to back at side seams. Serge. Press toward back.
5. I didn't use the sleeves, but this is where I would do them. It looks like they should be put in in the round. Instead I used double fold bias tape to finish the armholes. I trimmed off the SA and enclosed the raw edge in the folded tape. I'm not sure I would use this method again.
6. Press up hem allowance. Clean finish and stitch in place. (I just used a narrow hem.)
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I had to do the alterations that are standard for me when I sew one of the Big 4 patterns: upper rounded back and narrow shoulders. I usually also do a forward shoulders alteration but this time it looked like I needed to do a forward head alteration. I don't know if that is the pattern, or if my posture is getting worse!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and Yes. This is my muslin and I am trying it out for a few days to see if I can sleep in it ok. It is a lot fuller than my normal nightgowns (Vanity Fair.)
I would like to figure out how to line the yokes using the "burrito" method, but so far have not been able to wrap my head around how to do it.
Conclusion:
This is a nice pattern for what I wanted, a nightgown. I don't know that I would make one for daywear, as it says "1980's" to me and I'm not ready to repeat them yet.
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3 Comments
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thanks for your review. I have Lutterloh (purchased in the late 90's) but have never actually made anything up. Nice nightie -- looks very comfy.
1/23/13 9:15 PM
Good sewing! It looks lovely and comfortable. (Oh, and I'm not ready to repeat the 80's yet either! :) )
1/24/13 8:32 AM
Perfect nightie on a warm summer night. Sweet.
2/27/13 10:00 PM