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BurdaStyle Magazine: 09-2007-104 thumbsup - Type:Coat/Jacket    printable version
Viewed 164 times 8 more reviews
Review rated Very Helpful by 3 people   
Reviewed by:valerie sews
photo
About valerie sewsstarstarstar
AUSTRALIA
Member since: 10/1/03
Reviews written: 102
Sewing skills:Advanced
Favored by: 25 people
patterns reviewed: 101
Bio: more...
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Posted on:1/26/13 7:43 PM
Last Updated:1/26/13 9:58 PM
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Photo:

Pattern Info provided by valerie sews

Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
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Fabric:Faux Fur  [See other projects in this fabric]
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Pattern Description: Lined raglan sleeve coat with front welt pockets and collar with stand. Can also be made into a bias jacket without pockets. I've lost my copy of this issue of Burda but I think the coat was featured in fake fur.

Pattern Sizing:I made a 42

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes (from memory)

Were the instructions easy to follow?As mentioned above I did not have the instructions so I am very glad that a few reviewers had left information on how they constructed this coat. This is what I did:
Use 5/8" seam allowances. Trim the fur to the width of the seam allowances. Sew the darts then make the front welt pockets.

Welt Pocket
Welt Pocket lining

My fur was so springy that I used a fine chocolate colored cotton for the pockets instead of lining material as it slipped less. Sew the sleeve seams and front and back raglan seams. At this point I had to decide whether to use any stabilizer on the facings or collar. My material was stable and very thick so I did not use interfacing. I did however stabilize the raglan seams with strips of lining selvedge.

Stabilizing the raglan seams

I assembled the collar, trimming the outside edges of the under collar before it went together. The collar is sandwiched between the coat and the facings,
I used cotton once again for the back facing as my machine could not cope with all those layers of fur in the sandwich!
When I assembled the lining I put a bias strip of leopard print rayon from a current dress project to 'marry' it to my black lining.

Closeup of back facing and snaps

When sewing in the lining I used lots of pins, some hand stitching and tried to go with the grain of the fur whenever possible. There was considerable slip-sliding regardless. It is like sewing velvet on steroids.
I hand stitched all the hems.
I finished with two big black snap closures and vintage buttons that were my grandmothers.

Vintage Button

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I love the classic lines of it and the collar which has a collar stand that is really a curved piece that is inset into the collar itself. I like the welt pockets although they were a bit tricky in fur. Other reviewers found them to sit too high but for me the placement is just right.

Welt pockets at waist level

Fabric Used:Fake ocelot with a deep pile. I trimmed fur before and during construction. The vacuum cleaner stayed under my ironing table like a faithful hound for the duration of constructions and neighbors heard short bursts of vacuuming at all hours of day or night

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:None. Amazing.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I am so glad I finished this three - or is it four - year old UFO. This pattern is a keeper. I would sew it again but not in fur.

Conclusion: I am very happy with how it turned out. For more about this coat's story you are welcome to visit my blog.



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12 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
bjird said...
What a fun coat! You look gorgeous!
1/26/13 8:08 PM
SavageCoco said...
Oh, outstanding. Just Purrrfect!
1/26/13 9:00 PM
Dilliander said...
Stunning Valerie! I'm a coat fan too and yours is fabulous. Perfect for dining at the Opera House :)
1/26/13 11:43 PM
Renata said...
Very glamorous. I just hope you get to wear it really soon!!
1/27/13 0:19 AM
cocosloft said...
Gorgeous. And such nice work. I love how you handled the facing/lining issues - will remember this when I do a fur piece (I'm thinking I need one bad!) Great coat, Valerie.
1/27/13 0:51 AM
ChristmasHills said...
So luxurious looking.
1/27/13 2:53 AM
valerie sews said...
Thank you ladies. I'm due for and easy project or two now.
1/27/13 6:09 AM
KensingtonCrab said...
I love this! Great construction! Looks soooooo cozy!
1/27/13 9:26 AM
carolynw said...
It's absolutely stunning - looks like you stepped from the pages of a fashion mg. I have some fake fur I bought to make myself a coat and I look at it in dread - when I start I will remember your phrase " like sewing velvet on steroids" that should help keep me going
1/27/13 10:43 AM
NJcowgirl said...
Beautifully done. It looks so cozy and stylish. Great job.
1/27/13 10:47 AM
Sharonspils said...
Gorgeous and love the vintage buttons.
1/27/13 3:48 PM
Margaret said...
Love it! Very classic and the fit looks perfect!
1/28/13 11:32 AM
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