Pattern Description: Lined raglan sleeve coat with front welt pockets and collar with stand. Can also be made into a bias jacket without pockets. I've lost my copy of this issue of Burda but I think the coat was featured in fake fur.
Pattern Sizing:I made a 42
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes (from memory)
Were the instructions easy to follow?As mentioned above I did not have the instructions so I am very glad that a few reviewers had left information on how they constructed this coat. This is what I did:
Use 5/8" seam allowances. Trim the fur to the width of the seam allowances. Sew the darts then make the front welt pockets.
My fur was so springy that I used a fine chocolate colored cotton for the pockets instead of lining material as it slipped less. Sew the sleeve seams and front and back raglan seams. At this point I had to decide whether to use any stabilizer on the facings or collar. My material was stable and very thick so I did not use interfacing. I did however stabilize the raglan seams with strips of lining selvedge.
I assembled the collar, trimming the outside edges of the under collar before it went together. The collar is sandwiched between the coat and the facings,
I used cotton once again for the back facing as my machine could not cope with all those layers of fur in the sandwich!
When I assembled the lining I put a bias strip of leopard print rayon from a current dress project to 'marry' it to my black lining.
When sewing in the lining I used lots of pins, some hand stitching and tried to go with the grain of the fur whenever possible. There was considerable slip-sliding regardless. It is like sewing velvet on steroids.
I hand stitched all the hems.
I finished with two big black snap closures and vintage buttons that were my grandmothers.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I love the classic lines of it and the collar which has a collar stand that is really a curved piece that is inset into the collar itself. I like the welt pockets although they were a bit tricky in fur. Other reviewers found them to sit too high but for me the placement is just right.
Fabric Used:Fake ocelot with a deep pile. I trimmed fur before and during construction. The vacuum cleaner stayed under my ironing table like a faithful hound for the duration of constructions and neighbors heard short bursts of vacuuming at all hours of day or night
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:None. Amazing.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I am so glad I finished this three - or is it four - year old UFO. This pattern is a keeper. I would sew it again but not in fur.
Conclusion: I am very happy with how it turned out. For more about this coat's story you are welcome to visit my blog.