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Simplicity: 9723 - Type:Dresses    printable version
Viewed 67 times 1 more reviews
Reviewed by:Morrigoon
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About Morrigoon
CA
Member since: 3/21/09
Reviews written: 3
Sewing skills:Intermediate
patterns reviewed: 3
Bio: more...
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Posted on:2/1/13 3:08 AM
Pattern Size:Plus-Sized 
Project Photo:photo3
Pattern Photo:Simplicity 9723
Simplicity Pattern Info

More Info provided by Morrigoon

Pattern Rating:Recommend, with Modifications
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Fabric:Satin  [See other projects in this fabric]
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Pattern Description:
Costume-quality Edwardian dress. Meant to imply approximately 1902, give or take a couple years. Probably intended for school productions of Music Man. I made the "A&C" view, but never got around to making the jacket part.

Pattern Sizing:
I used the 14-20, cut to a 20
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Um... mostly. (Accounting for figure differences and the fact that I wore no underpinnings, I guess it was close)

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Not entirely. There is some confusion regarding the sleeves and which side is which. Remember that single notch indicates the front, and double, the back. Can't help you on the confusion over the lower sleeves, but work it out ahead of time, how you want them to be (and which side is out!)

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It's pretty. When you just want a costume you can throw on and don't care about historical accuracy, this is probably an easy-enough version of that time period. Also, though it's hard to tell from the pose in the picture I'm posting, it's actually a very flattering shape for us larger ladies. Personally, I'm built like a box, but this gave a nice clearly defined waist.

Fabric Used:
Cheap liner satin!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Did not add the yoke on top of the bodice, did not make the belt (which really, to achieve the right look, I should have done)

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would sew it again, mainly to avoid the labor involved in drafting out a historically accurate one. However, there are things that I would change:

1. Sleeves: too tight to do up, so widen those by 1/2" and interline with fabric, not interfacing. Mark clearly which is left and which is right.
2. Separate top from skirt. Make the skirt pattern from view D, and use the belt to form the bottom of the bodice. Would probably use a trick they use on Disney princess costumes and have the bodice hook onto the waistband of the skirt.
3. Add the yoke - maybe in lace? Would have to look at the pattern again to see if it's possible, but ideally would cut away the fabric behind it. Either that, or do the whole overbodice in lace!
4. Look for opportunities to add tucks and/or insertion lace. For those complaining about the wedge in the skirt, this would be a chance to resolve that problem. Look at 1900-1910 on Pinterest - these dresses were often dripping with lace, tucks, and foofy trimmings. This pattern basically provides a blank canvas to add all that stuff in. Grab some hem tape (aka cheap insertion lace!) and go hog wild.
5. I'd try this next time in white muslin, with miles and miles of lace insertions.

Conclusion:
It's not perfect, it's not historically accurate, but it's a fun gown to do, and takes some of the labor out of doing it the correct way, which you can -and should- pour into trimming it out big time. That's what I'd do next time I do this dress.

(Side note: the hat in the picture is a cheapo straw hat from the floral section at Michaels with about 4 yards of tulle just wrapped around and around and pinned on, with a couple butterflies thrown on top. Works for a 1-time event, but stitch down if you want it to last.)

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