Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Vogue Patterns: 1048 OOP (Leather skirt, with attitude) - Type:Suits / Separates |
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|About lamstu |
|Member since: 8/17/04 |
|Reviews written: 71|
|Favored by: 29 people|
|patterns reviewed: 69|
|Posted on:||2/8/13 11:32 PM |
|Last Updated:||2/8/13 11:44 PM|
More Info provided by lamstu
|Pattern Rating:||Difficult, but great for Advanced Sewers |
|Fabric:||Leather [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Off-and-on, the craving for a leather skirt/trousers/dress assails me. Last autumn it came over me in the same week that a friend wanted the address for the leather market, so I bummed a ride and came home with black leather. I've never sewn or worn a leather garment, so it's all new territory: who-knows-where-to-go-wearing-it or what-to-wear-with-it.... For its first outing, it attended a Chinese New Year party in Shanghai at a friend's house.|
Pattern Description: This pattern was issued in the late 80s? ish? The designer is Myrene de Premonville in the Vogue Attitudes International line. "...jacket.... Semi-fitted, lined, tapered skirt, above mid-knee or above ankle, contour waist, side front and side back hemline slit and side zipper. Topstitching." I used the skirt pattern as the basis for this project.
Pattern Sizing: This envelope had 12-14-16. My measurements suggest that I would wear size 16, so I started there and refined the fit in the toile.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? somewhat, but I made a number of modifications. The skirt, as designed, is part of a nice business suit. My intent is rock-and-roll. I hope I have avoided "lady escort" territory.
Front, back, and side views. The lower zippers open a modest amount.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but I modified them extensively to add the exposed zippers and for better finish with the leather. The zipper installation included LOTS of hand sewing as I wanted perfection and this gave a lot of control to achieve the best result. (PM for details.)
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I bought the leather first, and was so happy to find this old pattern in my box. (I bought it for the pretty jacket, which I have yet to sew.) I really wanted an edgy skirt and by inserting zippers into all the darts, I got one!
Fabric Used: Leather, slightly distressed, purchased on the local leather street (18 sq feet in three pieces, $20US). Black silk remnant for lining. Lightweight silk organza to support zipper inserts, and fusible interfacing elsewhere.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Alterations: You know that I made a toile for this skirt!
* the front and back are originally cut from the same pattern piece, which worked great in the back where I curve, but was a disaster in the front. I closed up the waist dart and re-cut the front completely flat, which is more-or-less my shape.
* adjusted the hip curve, taking it in a bit at the waist and out a bit over the thighs.
* pegged the skirt a little bit more than the original design.
* removed about an inch from the waist at center front, tapering to nil at the side seams (this is a usual adjustment for me).
* modified to avoid stitching the leather more than once. No sewing mistakes allowed on this material. For instance, the zippers were basted to the organza support by hand and then edge-stitched as the last step.
* There is contrary advice about "pressing" leather. Whilst the leather did not require pressing, it was necessary to control the silk lining/underlining. I used the lowest steam setting for my iron and covered the leather with silk organza press cloth. Of course there was a test on a scrap piece to make sure it didn't damage the surface. The press cloth protected my iron from the leather as much as the other way around.
* For this relatively thin leather, conventional seams were used: Sewed WS together, and then "pressed" open or to the back. I pounded all the seam lines and hem fold with a hammer to try to flatten them, the edges keeping the crease long enough to finish the step.
* to control the side seam shape better, the seam allowances were clipped from waist to hip, alternating between the two seam allowances to avoid any bumps.
* added side front and side back seams, running through the center of the hem darts. Necessary to fit on the skins that I had.
* eliminated the side seam zipper opening and installed zippers into the waist line darts. Fly/underlays were sewn behind the zippers for comfort; they also support hook-and-bar closures for security.
* installed zippers into the hemline darts. The pattern provided a stay for the original darts, which was extended up to the waist and down most of the way behind the zip. (There is the option of unzipping a modest amount, in case I need to leg it somewhere - ?)
* underlined the skirt in silk, making openings whose edges are handstitched to the zippper tape.
* bound the upper waist edge with doubled over bias strip of the lining silk.
* inserted hem tape in the binding seam to stabilize the waist edge.
* added hanging loops for storage.
Waist line and zipper details
Waist zipper from inside, showing underlay/fly
Close up of lower front zipper
Inside view of back
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't foresee that I would make it again unless a friend begs for her own. I might sew it in wool as part of a suit, if I needed one. The pattern is sometimes available in the web-o-sphere. I do recommend it if one likes the idea! (And let me know how the jacket turns out.)
Conclusion: It feels a bit costume-y. Not so surprising since the style and fabric are pretty far out of my usual routine. I am generally pleased with the construction, with a bit of a quibble about some wrinkling around the hip curve (this is seen in the side view photo). There is only 1 inch of ease at the hip, and if I take it out, the wrinkles go away, but then I can't sit down. I can only hope that people will be looking at the zips, or my legs, instead of a flaw.
DH seemed to like it and I had many compliments from the friends at the party. I was comfortable all night and really happy to be warm when we had our fireworks in the snow!
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