BurdaStyle Magazine: 11-2012-128 (Pullover 11/2012 #128 pattern) - Type:Tops  | | Viewed 229 times
| 3 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 8 people | | Reviewed by: | grays08 | 
 | About grays08 | | IL USA | | Member since: 9/13/11 | | Reviews written: 55 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 11 people | | patterns reviewed: 55 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 2/10/13 9:47 PM | | Last Updated: | 2/28/13 12:41 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | Pattern Info provided by grays08 | | Pattern Rating: | Highly Recommend | | NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue | | | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| UPDATE 02/28/2013 - Updated/edited review for new version of this in a pink sweatshirt fleece.
Pattern Description:
Women's knit pullover features a V-neckline and hem bands (longer hem bands in back). There is another version of this pattern (129) that doesn't have the hem bands and runs longer/straighter, but I liked this one better.
This pattern also happens to be available for download.
More Pictures:
Version #2 in sweatshirt fleece
Version #1 brushed knit front
Version #1 with varying hem band lengths
Pattern Sizing:
36, 38, 40, 42, 44. I made a size 38 for a 36" bust, and this was spot-on with plenty of design ease. I am normally torn between making a 38 in some knit patterns for Burda, 40 for others and almost always 40 for wovens. This pattern is very roomy so if you are normally in between sizes with Burda or if you want a slimmer but still roomy fit, size down one from normal. The sizing bottleneck on this pattern is in the lower front/back hem bands. They are the only semi-fitted part of this pattern and are meant to fit across the hip to cinch in the top (you ease the top into them) and allow it to blouse over the bands slightly. If you are concerned on sizing, my advice would be to check pieces (a) and (b) (front and back hem bands) on your body before cutting out.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes very much so.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy to follow for Burda and easy if you are already familiar with basic processes like setting in sleeves, easing stuff in, etc.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
LIKES -
- Super quick and simple pattern to whip up
- Love the comfy but chic style of this. It reminds me of a favorite sweatshirt as it's so comfy to wear, but it transforms when you put it on to hug your body slightly to give it that non-slumpy and stylish look. I really, really love this a lot! = )
- Love that the back band is longer than the front. I love that the sleeve hem bands are longer as well and ease with the sleeve to provide some design interest.
DISLIKES -
- None. I wasn't sure how I'd feel about a rear flap, but I like it. It lays down well and behaves so I'm happy.
Fabric Used:
Version #1 (blue) in a polyester/cotton brushed medium-weight blue stripe knit from Fabric Mart Fabrics. This fabric had no lycra however did have two-way crossgrain stretch so I was able to use it by keeping this in mind on all the hem bands by running them crossgrain.
Version #2 (pink) in a 100% cotton sweatshirt fleece from Fabric.com in a pale pink. This fabric had 10% two-way stretch with the grain which wasn't an issue with the hem bands but an issue for the sleeve bands since they are doubled up which limited the stretch to almost nothing.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I opted to not use the exact bias tape called for around the neckline. Burda calls for you to use a wide bias tape and manually tack it inside around the neck, and I didn't want this. I ended up using fusible bias tape around the neckline and then coverstitched it after I turned under 1/2" of the 5/8" that I allocated for a seam allowance there. I was a little concerned about the width of the neckline, but I doubt the 1/8" mattered a whole lot as the neckline was fine. I did find the narrow coverstitch on top of the folded under bias tape helped keep the neckline laying down and looking sharp.
-For version #1 (blue), I cut out all of the hem bands (front, back and sleeve) crossgrain. I originally laid them out the way Burda shows on the cutting diagram but after sewing it up, I remembered that my fabric only had two-way stretch crossgrain and this was a huge obstacle when easing on the bands. I did it smoothly eventually but then found it snug and was frustrated with myself for not remembering to cut them differently so I ripped them out and cut out all new band pieces crossgrain. This looks and fit so much better and is more in line with what you see with rib knits done on sweatshirts and other things in RTW. My fabric has a slight, small stripe that runs through it so it looks pretty cool this way any way. I hadn't sewn with non-lycra knits in so long that I forgot to account for this up front but easy to correct and worth it in my opinion.
-For version #2 (pink), I had to cut the hem bands so that the grain/stretch ran the width of the bands so I could use the stretch when easing them onto the garment. I also added 2 cm to the width of bands (a) and (b) since my fabric didn't have as much stretch, and I wanted to make sure the bands behaved across my hips. This worked great until the sleeve bands, which due to the fabric being doubled, had no stretch so I had to run gathering/ease stitches on the sleeves to get them on. On this version I also tapered the sleeve band (c) down toward the wrist since I have narrower wrists and wasn't thrilled with the bulk of this on my previous version and was happy with this alteration.
- I used Stay Tape on both versions for the shoulder seams to stabilize.
- I did some hand tacking down by the hem bands at the bottom just to pull the peaks of the V together nice and neat.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I have already which is rare for me! It's just a great basic top, and I was anxious to try it out in a different fabric so I did it in a sweatshirt fleece which I love just as much (but a slightly different sewing experience). These tops are so comfortable to wear that I don't want to take them off! I really enjoyed sewing them up too since most can be done on the serger.
I would strongly recommend you pay close attention to the direction of stretch in your fabric before cutting/laying out all of the hem/sleeve bands as this is a pivotal for this pattern. You can use a non-lycra knit for this top, you just have to account for the stretch on the bands as they have to be eased into quite a bit of fabric on the top and sleeves at the hems.
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8 Comments
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This is great, thanks for the very helpful review and info on sizing.
2/11/13 1:28 AM
Great looking top...very cute on you! It looks very RTW.
2/11/13 7:47 AM
Love this!!!
2/11/13 8:06 AM
What a great review. Thanks for all the information about this pattern. I feel I need to dig it out and stitch it up.
2/11/13 10:34 AM
Lovely top!
2/11/13 10:50 AM
Nice and great review. Thanks!!!
2/12/13 8:35 AM
great, comfy looking top. ( Now I feel like I need to hunt up my magazine and start tracing.)
2/12/13 9:54 AM
I love your tops. I want one now. Thanks for the VH review.
2/28/13 9:24 PM