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Pattern Reviews> BurdaStyle Magazine> 04-2006-126 (Blouse)

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Reviewed by:Elaray

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Member since: 4/20/05
Reviews: 164 (patterns: 124)
Skill level:Intermediate
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Posted on:10/9/06 6:50 AM
Last Updated:10/9/06 7:00 AM
Pattern Size:Plus-Sized 
Review Rating:
Very Helpful by 5 people   
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16 Comments      Login to Add a Comment    
MissCelie said... (10/11/07 7:46 AM) Reply
You're tooooo funny. I feel you on this one.
Hilary said... (5/24/07 11:20 AM) Reply
you are so funny :D:D I definitely sympathize, but I was laughing so hard :oP Great review!!
Silvie said... (10/10/06 3:53 AM) Reply
Sorry for your troubles. The blouse is a three dot rated patten , not one of the easier ones - probably the most difficult collars of all to constract (sure looks nice ) ! Burda patterns are well drafted and backed by decades of experience and the fit is great..... I don't mark the seam allowances on the paper pattern but mark directly on the fabric and use my sewing machines markings as stitching guide. When making collars I carefully mark all lines ( the actual stitching lines) on the fabric. So far this has helped making all collar pieces fit together perfectly......good luck
Tonya said... (10/9/06 9:26 PM) Reply
"Burda World of Frustration"

LOL that made me nearly snort pizza out my nose. Especially since I just fussed and fumed trying to figure out tissue-fitting of a WOF overlap-type skirt, gave up on it, and am about to start a WOF skirt with box pleats.

But back to you, Elaray, I'm sorry. I hope posting this review helped you get through it - when I get this way I have to sew something quick, easy, and knit before I have the heart to tackle another tough project. Good luck - it gets better, just keep plugging along.

jayjays said... (10/9/06 8:36 PM) Reply
This is a method Burda has used for a long time, mainly for jacket collars. It is worth the effort to master. Think angles instead of curves when looking at the pattern. There is an excellent article on this method, with illustrations, in Burda Sewing Made Easy 1/94, Vol 2, # 1, page65. Good luck.
Elemenopeo said... (10/9/06 7:03 PM) Reply
I've done one of these too and you'll have to rip the collar back aprat and follow the above instructions to get it to work out right. It does work but requires more fiddling around. Good luck.
mastdenman said... (10/9/06 10:33 AM) Reply
I've done these collars. They are tricky. The collar attaches to the blouse on three sides. Stay stitch and mark the seam allowance on the corners. Then clip the corners. You sew the flat part of the collar to the blouse. Then sew the little flat parts on the side to the lapel in two separate steps. Is this clear as mud? The collar has six edges. Three of them get sewn to the blouse and three of them are sewn together.
LMH said... (10/9/06 10:23 AM) Reply
I've done this kind of notched collar on a jacket; it's the most complex kind & not usually pictured in sewing books, which usually only show the simpler kind of notched collar. They're hard, because you have to do an inset corner & sort of work everywhich way with the pieces. Usually, you attach the two collars along the top only, then, working separately, attach each collar piece to the body of the shirt and to the facing (the facing should not be sewn to the body until the collar pieces are completely attached, to each other and to the facing). The bottom corner of each collar piece (the bottom corner is where the collar turns at its raw neck edge) is what gets set into the square shape in the body and facing. (don't forget staystitching & clipping when doing the inset corner or you'll really go mad). The funky extra corner is actually the place where the collar becomes the lapel. When attaching the collar to the neck edge, you only sew up to the funky corners and not beyond. The rest gets sewn to the other collar piece in the same place in order to make the lapel. The Burda pattern probably had a dot here or something to mark it. After you have the base of the top and under collars attached to the body of the shirt and to the facing, respectively, then you sew the points of the collar and lapels closed, clip, press, etc., & sew the facing to the body of the shirt. I don't know of any books that illustrate the complete process (i.e. the inset part), though they usually cover sewing up the lapels and top collar corners. Power Sewing & the Classic Guide to Tailoring a Jacket might help with the latter part of the process; and David Coffin's shirtmaking book might have something in it. Not sure. At any rate, try this all out on a mockup, maybe handbasting it, & you'll see that it can be done. It's tricky, but doable. Don't give up & good luck!
fuzzygalore said... (10/9/06 9:41 AM) Reply
Oh, what a pain. I hate when I forget something helpful :-). Your last iteration was so good-looking though, it's worth trying to fish this one out of the trash and giving it another go. Think you can find the same collar chapter in the book that helped last time? I'm kind of wondering whether you flipped the whole collar, I mean whether that seam should actually be the neck seam. It'd make sense because the blip seems to be about a seam allowance in? That's sheer speculation though, and your plan is the best - sew something foolproof, lower your blood pressure, than take another look and something might leap out at you. Good luck, and hang in there!
Cinderella said... (10/9/06 9:24 AM) Reply
Sorry, but you do have me laughing with your review! I feel the anguish you went through but you added humor! I've a few Burda patterns but have yet to make any of them, now I am afraid! I have read the insturctions and did note on one that a step I thought of seemed to be missing. Will have to really read through them now that I realize how much trouble they can cause.
Sewliz said... (10/9/06 8:40 AM) Reply
LOL, thanks for giving me a good laugh this morning. Your review is great! Until recently I haven't minded BWOF instructions but that is because I didn't really need them. I didn't know how fortunate that was until I tried to figure out some unusual fly front instructions from the magazine recently. The instructions were gibberish, madness. Finally I realized they never seemed to even mention sewing the right side of the zipper on. If they leave something that vital out then why bother trying to decipher the bla bla bla in the first place. I suggest you find a similar collar construction in a good envelope pattern of any good company and use that instead. Otherwise you will be having endless Burda World of Frustration experience.
yorkshire lass said... (10/9/06 8:18 AM) Reply
TNT is Tried and Tested. I really feel your pain. My last few efforts have been less than successful also and it is just so frustrating but you have to hang in there and maybe make up a nice, easy, quick pattern that you have made before and know works to try and get your hand in.
Elaray said... (10/9/06 8:03 AM) Reply
What's a TNT pattern?
ryan's mom said... (10/9/06 7:56 AM) Reply
Time to make a TNT pattern :) . And, yeah, pattern illustrations are a good reinforcement. Sometimes it's frustrating not having those pics.
blue mooney said... (10/9/06 7:21 AM) Reply
I can see why you picked the style - it looks like a nice blouse. I hope you come back to this when you're not frustrated and conquer it...but it's always ok to walk away from something that's not working.
Ronda Rae said... (10/9/06 7:06 AM) Reply
How frustrating! Hang in there. Grab something easy and go with it. I'm sorry you're having troubles right now. I went through this recently, too. Don't doubt yourself like I did.
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