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Butterick: B5365 (Connie Crawford blouses) - Type:Tops

Viewed 895 times

Review rated Helpful by 3 people Very Helpful by 45 people

Reviewed by:

MaryBeth


	About MaryBeth
	USA
	Member since: 1/1/03
	Reviews written: 100
	Favored by: 43 people
	patterns reviewed: 87
	Bio: more...

Posted on:

6/15/09 3:25 PM

Last Updated:

6/17/09 9:03 PM

Project Photo:

Pattern Photo:

More Info provided by MaryBeth

Pattern Rating:

Highly Recommend

Current Tags :

Fabric:

Silk Crepe [See other projects in this fabric]

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Edited 6/17/09 to add photo of the button spacing Spacing of the Buttons
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I wanted to rate this pattern "Easy & Great for Beginners" because it is a sweet blouse pattern, well drafted and graded but there are a few problems with the instructions. They are not big problems, but they might trip up someone who has not made a dressmaker's blouse with banded collar and cuffs before and has no other sewing reference books to turn to for clearer explanations. I'll try to give you the fixes below.

Pattern Description: These relaxed fit blouses A, B are designed for fluid, drapey fabrics and have a two-piece banded collar.

A: tucks from the shoulder, short sleeves with mock cuffs.
B: darts from the neckline, long sleeves gathered to buttoned cuffs.

I made View A darts from the shoulder with the long sleeves from View B

Pattern Sizing: Miss (XS-S-M-L-XL), Woman (XXL-1X-2X-3X-4X-5X-6X)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No, the drawing is not a good illustration of the true lines of this pattern.

The illustrations show a small collar, especially in the Version B drawing, long darts over the bust when the darts actually release about 1.5" above the second button. I've marked up the stitched lines So you can see them more clearly.

The collar has a very nice shape to it. It curves up over the shoulder and is nicely rounded in the back but the illustration shows it to be a straight, unshaped collar.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were and I followed them exactly just to be sure they were comprehensible.

5/8" seams are used for the side seams and the sleeves. 3/8" seams are used for the neckline, collar, center front and cuffs. Smart! It makes these pieces easier to join and to turn.

A couple of problems came to light:

In step 6. Attach the collar and front facing you are pinning the notched edge of the collar band to the neck edge and the instructions tell you to match the "front edge of collar band to large circle on front."

There was no "circle" of any size on my pattern piece so I had to reason it out.

The pattern uses 3/8" seam allowances to join the front to the front facing and the collar band should end right at the edge of the front so the circle should have been located 3/8" in from the front's cut edge and 3/8" down from the front's neckline. The circle should have been printed 3/8" in and 3/8" down from the top of the front's cut edges.

The second problem with the instructions may just be that I couldn't make visual sense of the illustrations that accompany the step where you sew the placket onto the sleeve where the cuff will be installed.

It's a simple "continuous bound placket" and if you need help with this the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing has easy to follow instructions. My 1978 edition has the instructions on page 266. The 2002 edition has the instructions on page 228. Maybe this photo of the instructions will be enough to get you through the construction of it.

There are no fancy methods in this pattern's instructions. You hand stitch the inside of the collar band and the cuffs. Except for the problems above, it's a great pattern to use for your first blouse, no fancy "burrito" methods, etc.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the fit. Next time I make this blouse or a variation of it I will slant the shoulder seam down slightly.

The sleeves are the perfect length so if you have long arms, double measure before you cut.

The four darts do not release a lot of extra fabric fullness over the bust

The button placement is interesting, too. The first button down the front is 1 1/4" from the collar band so that it can be buttoned with a nice and modest spread to the collar.

The second and third buttons are 3 1/4" apart so that the third is exactly placed horizontally between the bust points, preventing the dreaded gaposious. The rest of the buttons down the front are 3 9/16" apart and end 2" above the hemline so that the blouse can be worn untucked and neat.

Fabric Used: I used a well aged silk crepe de chine from the stash.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I measured the pattern and cut a Miss Large through out, except for flaring gradually out from the M cutting line at the underarm point to XL at the hem to give more room over my high hip.

I did not alter the sleeve cap, thinking that I could do that during the sewing process by taking a bit deeper seam. The sleeve is slightly gathered and I didn't need to make any alterations to the sleeve cap to accommodate the extra inch of fullness.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will sew this pattern again! It's a TNT (tried and true) pattern for me now. I love how it falls over the bust and the fit of the sleeves and back.

Front
Back

Next time I might make it a bit longer.

I do recommend this pattern. It's very well graded and has clear instructions for Alterations for Women's Sizing

Conclusion: Don't believe the illustration on the front of this pattern. It's definitely a well drafted classic and a lovely alternative to side or waist darts.

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Reader Comments
Riesie	6/15/09	So glad to see a review of this pattern as I have it in my stash and have been dithering over it. I made her 5300 pattern and was very happy with it, so I had high hopes for this. Glad to know it works out so beautifully (and that is exactly the word for that fabric - beautiful). Thanks for all the info.
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charlotte287	6/15/09	Thank you for your very helpful review. I saw these patterns and wondered about them. Your blouse looks very nice.
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Andreahg	6/15/09	I've been waiting for a review of this pattern before buying it. Thanks for such a detailed review. You made a very lovely blouse!
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Patti B	6/15/09	Very pretty blouse, Mary Beth. I still shy away from blouses; perhaps I'll give this one a try. Very helpful review.
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FreyaStark	6/15/09	A smart and pretty blouse. I love the fabric, too. Thanks for the useful review. I've got plans for this pattern myself.
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Debbie Cook	6/15/09	Thanks MB for the details on this pattern. I have a love/hate with this pattern line (love some, not so much love for others) and am glad to know this one was a winner for you. It's already in my stash so I think its place in line just moved up.
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clin	6/15/09	Great looking blouse and thanks for such a thorough review - I love good blouse patterns but the drawing on this pattern envelope (as on most Connie's pattens) did nothing for me - will buy now thanks to your info.
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CarolynGM	6/15/09	I recently bought this pattern, so I'm glad to come across such a helpful review.
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Sew4Fun	6/15/09	Pretty blouse! I hadn't noticed this pattern before.
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chacha45	6/15/09	I would never have dreamed of doing that button placement! Is it noticeable in real life? The pattern of the fabric obscures it in the photo.
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MaryBeth	6/15/09	Yeah, chacha45, I tried so hard to get these photos to "work". You can see them better for some reason over on the blog, http://www.thesewingdivas.wordpress.com. The button spacings do work quite well in person, I don't notice the difference at all. Amazing!
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Sew4Fun	6/15/09	Oops sorry, double post. I hit that pesky refresh button when I shouldn't have.
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Karla Kizer	6/16/09	Nice, nice blouse, Mary Beth. I appreciate any review that encourages me to buy another blouse pattern.
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Peggy L	6/16/09	Great blouse and an excellent review! I think I'll have to get this one.
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TessKwiltz	6/16/09	Thank you so much for the detailed review. As a beginner I really appreciate your taking the time to evaluate the instructions along with the pattern itself. And what a pretty blouse!
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rhgadavis	6/16/09	Thanks so much for the review; I enjoyed reading about it first at SewingDivas. I have this pattern, too, so now I am much encouraged to go ahead and make it. I have several of her patterns and haven't made any yet--why the weird illustrations, I wonder?
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EleanorSews	6/16/09	What a lovely blouse!!! Thanks so much for your review. Like others, I have looked at this pattern more than once but was not sold by the illustration. Your blouse plus review have me wondering when the next Butterick sales are....
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KathySews	6/16/09	Wonderful top and review. I wish Connie Crawford would get better representation of her patterns on the cover. I also like 5300 and might try this.
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fryman	6/16/09	Great review & beautiful blouse!
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o3b	6/17/09	Thanks for the very thorough review. I was turned off by the collar illustration, so am glad that you showed the difference so clearly.
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Marji	6/17/09	Great review / Sweet blouse!
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Leora	6/17/09	Pretty blouse!
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chacha45	6/17/09	Thanks for adding the button photo, MaryBeth. That is just fascinating. There is some kind of optical illusion going on there because when something is out of symmetry it really bothers me and this doesn't!
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Renren	6/18/09	Beautiful . . . and I see another pattern in my future. Thanks for a great review with lots of supporting material.
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Christas	6/18/09	Beautiful blouse .... your sewing is so nice!
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marec	6/19/09	Thanks for such a thorough and helpful review; I have this pattern and plan to use it for some fall blouses. I actually bought th epattern because I thought it would extend my skills and now I see that it will! Thanks again, and your blouse is beautiful!!
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Kellie R.	6/19/09	Gorgeous top!
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Athene	6/20/09	Very pretty blouse and thank you for the great review.
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penelopekc	9/11/09	Terrific review! I have the Reader's Digest Sewing guide, so with it and your extensive guidance, I should be good to go! Thanks for taking the time to help out others sew-ers.
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OhioMary	10/1/09	Thanks for reinforcing my thoughts on where the missing "large circle" should be. This is my first use of C.C. patterns and I'm making 1x with no alterations to see how her pattern compares with my body (cheap material). I attended a seminar she gave to ASG in Ft.Wayne - enjoyed her greatly!
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