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Self Drafted Pattern: 125946-1000 (Levi's 514 knockoff) - Type:Mens - Pants    printable version
Viewed 2683 times
Review rated Helpful by 1 people    Very Helpful by 91 people   
Reviewed by:BrianSews
photo
About BrianSewsstarstarstar
MA USA
Member since: 2/16/08
Reviews written: 30
Sewing skills:Advanced
Favored by: 84 people
patterns reviewed: 12
Bio: more...
Report a problem with this review
Posted on:7/17/09 2:26 PM
Last Updated:7/18/09 11:04 AM


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115 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Lynnelle said...
Another amazing pair of jeans. Remarkable!
7/17/09 2:38 PM
birdmcfarland said...
Get out! Those things are incredible. Dude, you are talented! I really admire (and am totally envious!) of your consistent and precise stitching. You do very professional looking work.
7/17/09 2:52 PM
Ann Smith said...
Amazing process with great success. I really enjoyed your side by side detail photos comparing the Levis with your originals.
7/17/09 2:56 PM
smoody said...
you've done an exellent job on these jeans! I am so inspired to sew! Thank You!!!!
7/17/09 3:03 PM
Levone said...
Great pair of jeans! Thanks for the detailed explanation of the process that you followed.
7/17/09 3:09 PM
Ariadne said...
Amazing! thank you for the time to teach us jeans, o sensei denim!
7/17/09 3:10 PM
Elona said...
What terrific jeans you have created! These are truly extraordinary. I am astounded at the shapeliness of the Levi basic you have discovered by analyzing the pieces. That is amazing and useful information.
7/17/09 3:12 PM
SewRaeMe said...
Well I'm impressed!
7/17/09 3:13 PM
ChristineX said...
Wow, great jeans!!! :-)
7/17/09 3:22 PM
CA Eisenhour said...
Another astounding garment fabricated by the Incredible "ROCKETBOY!" You are truly awesome man! I'm just knocked over that you've only been sewing for SIX YEARS!! Fabulous work! ~Connie
7/17/09 3:31 PM
mmmckay said...
These are wow. Thanks for linking to all the photos. I love seeing every detail! My favorite are the plaid pockets; they're a nice personal signature, and a little reward just for you every time you see them. Love that :)
7/17/09 3:40 PM
doctorsirena said...
Amazing jeans, Rocketboy!! Your craftsmanship is fantastic - WAY better than the Levi's! I enjoyed looking through your 100+ photos. Thanks for the captions and for the review. I learned a lot and hope to make a pair of jeans for myself someday.
7/17/09 3:40 PM
Rhoda K said...
Great looking jeans and a very thorough review. Thanks!
7/17/09 4:16 PM
Karen6790 said...
Very impressive. I really enjoyed the side-by-side comparisons. Obviously I have never looked that closely at my RTW jeans - and I should try to duplicate my favorite pair before they wear out. Great result, as usual.
7/17/09 4:30 PM
cindyann said...
Fantastic attention to detail.
7/17/09 4:32 PM
persevering said...
Thank you for your inspiring review - yes your work is amazing!
7/17/09 4:43 PM
CynthiaSue said...
Fabulous. you are the jeans king and if you decide to write the book about sewing jeans, you will make tons of money. And also I think there is "best photography" award on PR which you will probably snag!! Awesome fit. Perfect copy.
7/17/09 4:57 PM
nancy2001 said...
It's astonishing how you were inspired by an ordinary pair of Levi's jeans to produce a work of art. Your photos show dozens of meticulously planned details, all beautifully executed. To say that this is impressive is an understatement.
7/17/09 5:46 PM
nancy2001 said...
duplicate
7/17/09 5:46 PM
donna mel said...
we bow to you!
7/17/09 6:04 PM
DaisyEsq said...
That's a great pair of jeans. Thank you for all of the tips and photos; very informative.
7/17/09 6:09 PM
Vibekeinyork said...
What everybody said and the fit is looking seriously good. The pattern comparison was very interesting too. The male body is made of curves as well as our female ones. You'd think sewing for women would be more interesting and challenging, but no! Also looks like you had lots of fun posing for the "glamour shots". Cool.
7/17/09 6:11 PM
no7262 said...
WOW! Not only are the jeans perfect, the photo's are awesome! You my friend, are very talented! Nora :)
7/17/09 6:16 PM
ConnieBJ said...
Great jeans, great review, great photos, great everything.
7/17/09 7:07 PM
Leora said...
I've compared two pairs of Levi's, same style, same size, and they had discernable differences, they came from different factories. I read somewhere each factory is provided with the same basic recipe, same specs, but each must develop their own patterns to come to a like end product. Your new jeans are perfection!
7/17/09 7:37 PM
chacha45 said...
Now we'll be waiting to find out if these are your new go-to jeans or you are still reaching for the Levi's. Astonishing work!
7/17/09 8:16 PM
PattiK said...
This is awesome!! Great work!
7/17/09 8:21 PM
Sharon1952 said...
Great review! I see a book in your future.
7/17/09 8:52 PM
Tailypo said...
I cannot get over your sewing prowess. As soon as I started clicking through the gallery I thought, Sweet fancy Moses, Rocketboy is at it again!
7/17/09 8:55 PM
Rhonda in Montreal said...
"RTW/Designer knockoff contest"... If I were entered, I'd just NOT BOTHER!! Fabulous!! It must be sewww much fun for you to post a Review here!! ;)
7/17/09 9:10 PM
Heidi Ho said...
Awesome looking jeans!!! What a great review as well. I loved flipping through all the pictures! You truly are talented!!!
7/17/09 10:33 PM
quixoticpixels said...
You should write a book on this. Fantastic jeans and an incredible document. Thank you!
7/17/09 11:01 PM
meli88a said...
Wow, those are some awesome jeans!
7/17/09 11:27 PM
Jolet said...
I love your review!! The jeans are great! They way you describe everything, with this not fancy machines! Wonderfull
7/17/09 11:32 PM
bananaoil said...
Holy cats! Great jeans, and your photo essay is something else.
7/18/09 0:14 AM
mylittleelephant said...
The secret of Levi's's been revealed! Such an eye opener!
7/18/09 1:09 AM
Renren said...
Rocketboy, I'd say you have achieved liftoff.
7/18/09 2:46 AM
FreyaStark said...
Amazing. A very impressive effort. I love the plaid pocket fabric.
7/18/09 3:14 AM
o3b said...
My heart is racing and skipping beats! I love all your details with different colored threads, the processes (processi?) you show, and on and on. Do you think you could do something for Sew Expo? I would *love* to attend a class on jeans sewing from you. I guess you'd want something to sell in a booth....maybe that book that's been mentioned?
7/18/09 3:54 AM
florida sunshine said...
seriously impressive!
7/18/09 8:19 AM
Woolygal said...
This is an amazing review Thanks.
7/18/09 8:56 AM
divaknitting said...
Fabulous jeans, again! I'm just getting ready to make my second pair and your reviews and information in the jeans thread has been so helpful.
7/18/09 9:25 AM
BrianSews said...
I appreciate all the wonderful support! The jeans, photos, review: this is my art and the members of the PR community are true connoisseurs. It takes a knowing eye to understand the work and skills that go into any sewing project. I am constantly challenged and inspired by what I see here and feel deeply grateful that I can reciprocate the energy. To me this is all about the great feeling I get from sharing and community.
7/18/09 10:23 AM
Batik said...
You represent the best of Pattern Review: real-time challenges, real people, real solutions. The great pictures are over the top helpful!
7/18/09 12:04 PM
QuickFade said...
Wow. Great job. I'll still be buying my son the $17 Levi's straight legs from Walmart because I don't have fourteen hours to spend to make him jeans and could by two pairs with one hour's pay. But, for yourself, if you have the time, what a satisfying task. And, inspiring. Thanks for the technical detail, your observations about construction order and tips on how to accomplish tricky details. I'll remember those for my own sewing adventures!
7/18/09 1:41 PM
moushka said...
Your jeans are a work of art! I second (fifth?) the book request. You've got the makings of a successful side career in the pattern and photographs. The photos, btw, are wonderful. You've really set the standard for sewing jeans. Sue
7/18/09 2:20 PM
Sangerin said...

7/18/09 2:48 PM
lmg said...
Rocket boy, Thank you for the great review and all the helpful hint. Great jeans. The pictures of the Kwik sew jeans and the Levi 514 jean pattern you made is quite instructive.
7/18/09 3:04 PM
michelle_01 said...
Great job on your jeans! And thanks for all the detailed photos. I have a question b/c I'm planning on sewing my first jeans. If you sew on unwashed denim, how do you handle the shrinkage factor? Do you make them slightly larger or do you just intend on them loosening as you wear them?
7/18/09 3:20 PM
koo104 said...
Re: question about figuring the shrinkage factor. In Manufacturing you would do tests on the fabric used to determine it's shrink. (after cutting relaxing and laundering/ finishing. These pattern adjustments are all done by computer and is added to the pattern pieces where needed. At home, you could make up a garment, write down the finished measures (spec), then wash as you want them to be finished ( at home at least 3 times since we don't have industrial strength washers with pebbles, monkey washes, grinding etc, etc etc. Then you remeasure all the same details to see how it shrunk up and adjust pattern if needed. Re: order of sewing for RTW in Denim. Many of the seams are flat felled and there are 2 machines for this process and it takes the highest skilled thus higher paid worker. The Frt & back rise has to be done separately due to more curved shape and the more open the garment the faster you can flat fell without defects. (under seam not catching at turned edge). The seam that is not felled is always the last to be sewn after the waistband is applied. There is a specific machine that makes the waistband. then the garments are shipped to the washing facilities where all of the tricks are done to make then look old and worn. Think McGiver meets Manufacturing.
7/18/09 3:53 PM
nadialou said...
Wow! What a wealth of information photos and insight - I am going to save this link if I ever want to make jeans, this is great stuff to know. Thanks.
7/18/09 4:21 PM
tlmck3 said...
Truly beautiful work. I love that you did it all on vintage sewing machines. Thank you for putting as much care into documenting the process as you did the process itself. Great jeans and great photos
7/18/09 5:31 PM
BrianSews said...
Shrinkage and pre-washing: Pre-washing changes the fabric, even heavy starch (and I mean heavy) does not bring it back to it's unwashed condition. I've tried and it's just not the same. The shrinkage in denim is mostly parallel to the selvage which means your legs will shrink shorter. I've never had the waistband shrink in any noticeable amount and it measures 36". The most shrinkage I've ever had with denim is 2" in a 34" inseam. I just make the legs longer by about 4" to account for this and I don't hem them until they've been washed and dried a few times. To be most accurate you would lengthen the pattern in the leg at the legthen/shorten line but it's not that big a deal. I've also heard that to calculate shrinkage you would take a square of fabric and draw two lines, one perpendicular to the grain and the other on grain. If those lines start out at 10 centimeters after washing each millimeter shorter is a % of shrinkage. Longer lines = more accurate results. More work then is necessary for me but if I was manufacturing hundreds of garments it would be worth a few shrinkage tests. :)
7/18/09 5:42 PM
PegL said...
Wow! 14 hours of amazing!
7/18/09 6:49 PM
Nancy K said...
Great jeans. I love the buttonholes! Can one fit one of these buttonholer on a modern machine that makes one step buttonholes? It makes a hell of a lot nicer buttonhole than my Viking!
7/18/09 7:25 PM
cabinbaby said...
Wow, as always. I love the photos at the end showing your KS and Levi's side by side. Those are some great jeans. And, if I may add, some very nice photos.
7/18/09 7:28 PM
Hilary said...
Absolutely fantastic jeans-I know how time consuming these RTW copies can be, but the results are SO worth it! I copied a pair of RTW denim shorts for my DH (now have made them 3x)and they look (almost) just like the real thing, if I do say so myself :p Yours are even better, I didn't bother with the rivets~now that I see how inexpensive they are, I might give them a try. Thanks for such a detailed review, I really appreciate all the tips. Great job!! Oh, and I love the two color top-stitching on the pockets~looks brilliant! Also, thanks for comparing the RTW copy pattern with the KS pattern-very interesting!
7/18/09 8:05 PM
Catbird said...
This is mega, mega, mega amazing. The work, the exquisite attention to detail, the photos . . . . I'm so grateful for the generosity of your time in documenting the process. I love your approach to your work and love the results. p.s. Apropos of nothing, really, I saw a jeans "aging" machine one night outside a shop in Gotenburg, Sweden that had the waistband attached to a motorized wheel, and every time the wheel turned, the jeans got slammed and dragged against the sidewalk! It was very odd.
7/18/09 8:38 PM
brrmm said...
You are the last word in jeans and mens shirt construction ! Go get yourself a book deal and earn some money from your fabulous talents. I'll be in line to buy it. Congrats on a fantastic review that is a lasting resource for this mere 'home-sewer'.
7/18/09 9:01 PM
poplin said...
I concur with another member. YOU SHOULD DO A CLASS. For SewExpo, for PR, for your website, or whathaveyou... You should get paid for all the work that you do.

At first, being somewhat of a prude, I thought that I better not magnify your review gallery picture. I find it very funny that your youtube videos were actually my first impressions of you: very considerate, sweet and easygoing.
7/18/09 9:02 PM
Elke said...
You created a great pair of jeans! You've done an excellent job and thanks for the inspiration! Wonderful review and photos, thanks!
7/18/09 9:11 PM
BrianSews said...
Well thank you! I can't complain with being called sweet and engaging. I actually did do a great little youtube video today on swimwear elastic if that interests anyone. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOlQp83HstU Not sure if it's proper to put links here in the comments? Most likely not... shhh, maybe no one will notice?
7/18/09 10:24 PM
rachel5000 said...
Now your just showin' off. Beautiful pair of pants. I am printing up your review and am trying it out. Rachel
7/19/09 1:35 AM
persevering said...
Thank you for also mentioning your tutorial on youtube. I've never sewn a knit of any kind, and your detailed demonstration is absolutely interesting and encouraging to me.
7/19/09 2:15 PM
BrianSews said...
Someone asked about the button hole attachment: Yes it can be used on almost any machine and will almost always do a better job then the most computerized sewing machines. I would do a review but MissCelie did an amazing review already that I could not improve on. Find that review by searching for "Automatic Buttonholer" in the notions section. These amazing contraptions are less expensive then some snap on feet and a must have!
7/19/09 5:03 PM
Oceanpeg said...
Great job on your pants PR and photos. I agree on the buttonhole attachment. I prefer the old fashioned "Singer" buttonhole attatchments from 50 or more years ago to the methods of now-a-days. The older ones are simple to use.
7/20/09 0:02 AM
Debbie Cook said...
Great review & photos! Good luck in the contest. :-)
7/20/09 9:18 AM
cgHipp said...
Really outstanding work - I want to sew as well as you when I "grow up"!
7/20/09 11:33 AM
Jali said...
You should write a book, teach a class, everything. This documentation is simply amazing.
7/22/09 3:26 PM
Karen8320 said...
RocketBoy, your work is truly inspirational! Absolutely top quality pattern drafting and sewing that sets a standard for the rest of us. I really love that you experiment and try different techniques on your garments. Thank you for all of your wonderful photography which adds so much more to the story that you tell in your review and helps us visualise your processes. You have shown us all what is possible by 'doing it yourself'. Really, really well done!!!
7/22/09 9:27 PM
Deepika said...
You've done it again! Amazing work,great review and very inspirational. I never thought I'd make my own jeans but you've inspired me. Keep 'em coming! We love your work.
7/23/09 11:21 AM
ragazza said...
Excellent review. You are truly talented. Bravo.
7/28/09 9:21 AM
vivianna said...
Those jeans are amazing!!
7/31/09 5:30 PM
AmyRose said...
Straight tubes!!! You have the discovered the foundation of "the homemade look". Perhaps the pattern companies draft patterns with tubular legs and boxy torsos becasue its easier to up and down size from the original sloper. I find that most of the independent pattern companies styles look like they use a yardstick to draft each design element. Great jeans. Yoe analysis is much appreciated.
8/1/09 9:49 AM
Mebber said...
You are an incredibly gifted sew-ist. Incredible.
8/1/09 10:34 AM
CarolynGM said...
I loved looking through the amazing photos of your construction details. Your album will be a fine resource when I make my next pair of jeans.
8/3/09 8:24 AM
Imaan said...
I can't believe I have only just discovered your reviews, and you...this is so amazing and inspiring. How long have you been sewing? How many hours do you put into it, on a regular basis? I get so disheartened at my beginning steps, it stops me from just doing it...
8/10/09 5:27 AM
Kathi R said...
What a great review! Thanks for sharing all the construction details with us - you are amazing.
8/10/09 12:03 PM
MissCelie said...
Excellent jeans and the information is stellar! Thank you!
8/10/09 12:34 PM
ElizabethDee said...
i'm speechless --except to try and thank you.
8/10/09 3:42 PM
jayejoyce said...
Super description and photos. Your quality of construction and attention to detail are just wonderful!
8/10/09 4:33 PM
anncie1 said...
OMG! Much luv!!
8/10/09 5:01 PM
Danvillegirl said...
Excellent job!
8/10/09 7:13 PM
katharin said...
I'm totally impressed. Your jeans are just perfect and your photos are wonderful. Thanks for sharing the lessons learned. The comparison of the KS pattern and Levi's shape was an eye opener. I'm curious what you'll find out when you change the construction order. I've noticed the same "inside leg seam last" construction order in my jeans and was wondering whether it's worth copying.
8/10/09 11:25 PM
Cassy said...
These are totally amazing! And thanks so-o-o much for the closeup shots. Again, all I can say is trully amazing!
8/11/09 1:30 AM
Gigil said...
Wow, I'm really impressed...love your pics. You did a fabulous job on the jeans.
8/11/09 2:19 AM
kerrynw said...
Absolutely fantastic! Great review and descriptive photos!
8/11/09 6:37 AM
pammieh said...
Fantastic review and pictures - thanks for sharing!
8/11/09 8:25 AM
halleyscomet said...
Amazing! Wow! Fantastic pair of jeans! So professional looking! I'm definitely impressed!
8/11/09 8:47 AM
Nancy Anne said...
Wow! Just.....Wow!
8/11/09 4:59 PM
Jujubegirl said...
Amazing eye for detail. I love how you took their design and made it cleaner, plus added your own flair. I hope I can sew like this someday, and that I take as much enjoyment from it as you obviously do.
8/12/09 8:22 AM
Christine B said...
I love the level of detail in your review and photos. In particular, this photo caption caught my eye: "This is the yoke where the flat felled seams intersect. I like the way the stitching lines up with the left and right side and the belt loop." ('cause I had to laugh, and say, OK, now you're just showing off!) All kidding aside, this is an exceptional piece of craftsmanship - thank you for sharing!
8/14/09 11:19 AM
SandraB said...
Fantastic jeans. Lovely photos. Very helpful review.
8/15/09 11:50 PM
trintje said...
This is great! Thanks for comparing the pattern pieces -- very interesting.
8/17/09 3:35 PM
TheSewingGirl said...
You are sick! And I mean that in the most sincere way :-) I am blown away!!
8/20/09 0:21 AM
sew obsessed said...
Unbelievable work! Thanks so much for all the details.
8/21/09 4:25 PM
Donna H said...
I want to sew like you when I grow up. (PS. I'm 50) ;)
8/21/09 9:21 PM
swirlgurl said...
These are amazing! um, yes, you rock!
8/22/09 8:50 AM
maryfrana said...
I can spend 14 hours learning from you and your photos! The crayon rubbing over the seams -- pure genius. Thank you forever.
8/23/09 11:22 AM
Raven Elle said...
I love the care and devotion put into this garment. I don't think I have ever heard anyone have such pride in their work. Not even very experienced seamstresses I have come across had this sort of passion for something as humble as a pair of good fitting and comfortable jeans. You sir, should be a clothing desiner! Tres Bein!
8/23/09 9:59 PM
Nikkij said...
I of all people need to be the main one making her own jeans. After looking at all this I can't say I'm ready, but I definately don't want to invest in the RTW jeans either.
8/25/09 6:03 PM
jessdr said...
(Wild applause)
8/26/09 12:07 PM
Nilima said...
Excellent description and comparison for making jeans. Thanks!
8/28/09 1:49 PM
helenkosings said...
This is SO helpful! I'm thinking about coming up with my own jeans pattern since my fit is so idiosyncratic....
9/15/09 9:48 AM
speedykay said...
awesome job.
9/15/09 9:57 AM
MBPaz said...
Standing ovation!!! I must echo many other reviewers and encourage you to turn your photos and tips into a book.
9/15/09 10:10 AM
kellyhogaboom said...
This is an amazing article. Great job.
9/15/09 11:57 AM
sksews said...
gorgeous! i too love the plaid pockets. do you wash the jeans much before you wear them to get the seams to "pucker"? that's what i think makes jeans look truly RTW. (although it usually makes non-denim clothes look poorly made.)
9/15/09 2:24 PM
jtlibrarian said...
I really appreciated knowing how long it took you to sew these. Gives me a benchmark!
9/15/09 6:51 PM
Summerlea said...
Fabulous jeans! So many inspirations for me, too. My Vogue jeans pattern order was crotch seam, inseam, then outseam. I serged and topstitched, rather than flat felled, the inseam and topstitched the outseam waist to hip. Much easier!
9/16/09 0:36 AM
SRG said...
Great information! I have been making my own jeans for years. I can do them very quickly now, it just takes practice. I really liked they comparison between the Levi and Kwik Sew pattern, I had no idea the legs curved.
9/16/09 0:50 AM
beadnut said...
Hi Brian...I met you and Peter at the Novi Show on Fri. I'm so impressed with your sewing talents! great work. ( I was the old lady with all the machines.) Keep up the great work!
9/30/09 8:36 AM
Tootsiebelle said...
What beautiful work you do, Brian! Very professional. Loved that you took the time to analyze the Levi's and to share the process. You obviously love sewing! Can't wait to see your next project.
10/6/09 1:12 PM
petro said...
Sorry to come late to this review. I'm intrigued by the curved leg pattern. I get the inside leg curve crotch to knee - but the longer curve on the leg part itself is different to anything I've seen. What did you do about grain line? Great jeans btw.
11/2/09 5:10 AM
Jblaze said...
You are the MAN!
12/5/09 2:27 PM
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