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Textile Studio: 1303 (Florence Jacket) thumbsup - Type:Coat/Jacket    printable version
Viewed 2903 times 4 more reviews
Review rated Helpful by 1 people    Very Helpful by 13 people   
Reviewed by:Lisa Laree
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About Lisa Lareestarstarstarstar
AL USA
Member since: 8/24/02
Reviews written: 242
Sewing skills:Advanced
Favored by: 86 people
patterns reviewed: 223
Bio: more...
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Posted on:7/16/02 6:20 PM
Last Updated:2/8/03 11:18 AM


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25 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
said...
Lisa: thank you for this wonderfully comprehensive review of the Florence jacket. Your review is very informative. I have this pattern and now am even more excited about sewing it.
7/17/02 12:42 PM Click here if you wish to edit your comment
said...
Great review, Lisa! Thanks for all that detail. Understitching is amazing... if there's anyone else out there who tries to avoid this slightly-tricky and unglamorous task, Lisa is right! I'm teaching a friend to sew right now and she was really impressed that we were able to make the linings of our Vogue sundresses stay inside where they belonged, since many RTW linings don't behave that well.
7/20/02 11:02 PM Click here if you wish to edit your comment
said...
Lisa, your jacket is just beautiful! I wasn't particularly interested in this just based on the pattern picture, but seeing yours makes me want one too! It looks great!
8/6/02 6:21 PM Click here if you wish to edit your comment
said...
Lisa, I printed out your review and implemented your suggestions. Thanks! I raised the armhole and still ended up with tightness through the shoulders. On my next try, I may add width through the back, what do you think?
9/1/02 1:19 PM Click here if you wish to edit your comment
said...
Lisa, your jacket is beautiful! I have had this pattern for months - I just think the lapel is so pretty. Thanks for your review.
9/1/02 4:32 PM Click here if you wish to edit your comment
said...
Amanda, I am not sure there really is a lot of ease in the back of this jacket. I haven't played with mine since I made the black jacket. Check Palmer/Pletches' "Fit for Real People"; it has some good advice about fitting through the back. Actually, I'm thinking I might add a back seam to add just a bit of ease through the shoulder blade area, but I won't say 'do that' since I haven't tried it yet! It might be worth playing around with in a muslin, though. Just a thought.
9/2/02 6:20 PM Click here if you wish to edit your comment
said...
Lisa, I was thinking of doing a back width adjustment as per Nancy Zeiman in 'Fitting Finesse.' But your idea of adding a seam is even better because it allows more leeway for adjustments. Thanks!
9/2/02 7:55 PM Click here if you wish to edit your comment
said...
Nancy's book would be a good place to look, too! I have her older book, "Busy Woman's Fitting Book" and it has helped quite a bit, too.
9/2/02 9:20 PM Click here if you wish to edit your comment
said...
This jacket looks so great on you, Lisa, that it inspired me to get out my long-stashed pattern and do some measuring of the short version. According to the size chart, I take an S. OK, the front measurement is fine, and the shaping looks good. But the back is an interesting and very different story. The back of this pattern is extremely narrow, relative to the front, both at the level of the underarm, and most especially at the narrowest part of the back, right at the base of the shoulder blades. I'm a gym rat and have a somewhat broad back, but this pattern measures a WHOLE INCH SMALLER than me right there. I will need to add two full inches for minimal ease--something I've never had to do with any other pattern. Now, the garment is cute enough to be worth the effort, but for this one, it looks as though it would be way prudent to do a muslin first, unless you have a very, very slight build.
10/23/02 2:44 AM Click here if you wish to edit your comment
said...
I nearly always add a CB seam if a pattern doesn't have one. It's just so much easier to fit my problem areas that way: broad and sway back. Thanks for the warning about the slim back Elona.
10/23/02 8:01 PM Click here if you wish to edit your comment
said...
Actually, Elona, I have tweaked this pattern a bit and added a CB seam to it but I haven't made it up since I worked on it! The unlined jacket is great for summer wear; but since the weather's cooled off I've discovered that it doesn't work well over cotton interlock turtlenecks; the fabric adhesion factor is just too great. I'm planning to add a lining to the next one...whenever that happens to be ;)
10/24/02 2:01 AM Click here if you wish to edit your comment
Mel.J said...
Great jacket Lisa! The iris fabric is sensational, and your jacket looks very elegant and comfortable at the same time.
2/7/03 9:34 PM
CarolM said...
Lisa, I also get those types of fold lines on the back of garments. (More pronounced on knit garments.) My current theory is that I may need more ease across the back shoulder seam. I think "Fit for Real People" refers to this as a "slightly rounded back". Your jacket is beautiful and an inspiration.
2/7/03 9:43 PM
AnneM said...
Nice jacket. I've been looking at this pattern and contemplating if I should get it. I probably should! Great job on making your alterations.
2/7/03 10:27 PM
Tiner W said...
Thanks for this review--I've been wanting to try this jacket. Yours is beautiful!
2/7/03 10:50 PM
LindaB said...
Beautiful jacket - I am going to get this pattern ! Plus you wrote a very helpful review - Thank You !
7/17/03 1:51 AM
Sherril Miller said...
Lisa, did you ever figure out the problem with the back of your purple jacket? I have this very same problem in everything I sew. Those drag lines are such a drag. I'm beginning to think it is my sloping shoulders. - Sherril
8/23/03 4:09 PM
Lisa Laree said...
No, Sherril, I haven't. Fitting the back is really hard if you don't have a sewing buddy to help, I think. I suspect it's an assymmetry problem, but whether my left shoulder slopes more or is more rounded I haven't determined yet. I have the P/P FFRP book now to use to research the problem; just haven't gotten to it! Meantime, if I don't stand still, no one wil notice ;)
8/23/03 9:34 PM
Sewphie said...
Thank you for the great review! It was very informative -- I have printed it to keep with my pattern -- good tips.
5/14/04 9:55 AM
JUDYT said...
Lisa, I, too, bought this pattern, with the best of intentions, but never did make the jacket. It looks so simple, I was just going to insure the hip measurement was ample enough, and cut. Thanks to your incredibly detailed review, I will first try a tissue pattern fitting. I confess, I'm a little nervous since reading your review. I haven't sewn anything serious since gaining weight, other than some easy skirts. In the past, all I ever had to do was shorten the waist and add width at the hip. I'm new to the independent pattern designers. Your advise will prevent disaster. Thanks so much for all the help.
9/26/05 4:22 AM
JUDYT said...
Lisa, I, too, bought this pattern, with the best of intentions, but never made the jacket. It looks so simple, I was just going to insure the hip measurement was ample enough for mine, and cut. From your incredibly detailed review, I will first try a tissue pattern fitting, which is something I have almost never bothered with. I confess, I'm a little nervous since reading your review. I haven't sewn anything serious since gaining weight, other than some easy skirts. This is going to be a lesson in relearning how to fit myself properly. The warnings re: the sleeve cap, armscye and back seam will be extremely helpful and will most likely prevent disaster. In fact, I now plan to pull a cheaper fabric from my stash to experiment with, before I cut into a lovely nubby beige/cream fabric I purchased specifically for this pattern. This way, the first attempt will either be a great eggplant colored jeans jacket, a good muslin or the most elegant dust rags in the closet. This is a win-win-win situation. Thanks so much for all the wonderful advise.
9/26/05 4:46 AM
SueKing said...
Lisa - Did you ever line this pattern? I was thinking I'd like to do that but somewhere in the pattern I think it said do not line or may not drape correctly. Not being experienced, I didn't try it.... I also didn't realize my shoulders are more narrow than the pattern but I don't like big pads - what to do? How do you make your own pads? I did see a way to reduce the fabric at the top of the shoulder (now that I've already sewn it!)
1/27/07 4:00 PM
Lisa Laree said...
Sue, I did line the second jacket...the purple one (it's in the slideshow, if you click on the camera icon), although I don't have a photo of the lining itself. It's textured wool w/a silk charmeuse lining and it is a dream to wear...still one of my favorite jackets. I have narrow shoulders; too; I compensate by using a smaller size through the shoulders and blending out to my regular size in the bustline (per the Pivot-and-Slide method Nancy Zieman teaches). I didn't make my own shoulder pads, I just covered the ones that are recommended on the envelope. Those neat little pads are sold by The Sewing Place and (I think) Textile Studio.
1/27/07 5:59 PM
SueKing said...
Lisa - I can't seem to view your photos. I get the text labeling your jacket but no picture. I'm getting so discouraged - I don't want to add shoulder pads if I don't have to and I do want to line this jacket. I'm going to re-do the armhole/sleeve and raise the armhole a 1/2 inch - do you think that will give more freedom of movement of the sleeves? Guess I should buy Zeiman's book "Fitting Finesse" - I am way over my head here. I love the look of the jacket but it is not comfortable!
3/2/07 6:38 PM
Lisa Laree said...
Hm; I wonder if Photoworks was just having problems, because I got the slideshow to come up ok (You do have to click 'view photos' or 'launch slideshow' or something like that...). Anyway, raising the armhole should help with the arm binding. My second jacket (after I raised the armhole) *is* more comfortable than the first...but part of that could be the fabric. Do get a good fitting book (check one out of the library if you don't want to purchase one without looking it over good first!)I wish I could remember off the top of my head which one deals the clearest w/raising the sleeve, but my mind has gone blank at the moment. I ought to just take pictures next time I do it and post them.... Anyway, for these I just lengthend the underarm (sleeve) seam by 1/2" and redrew the curves to match, tapering back to the original by the notches. The jacket's a little trickier, since the underarm doesn't match the (moved towards the back) sideseam, but as long as you remember it is the bottom of the armsceye that has to come up and alter accordingly it works. Hope that helps!
3/2/07 8:28 PM
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