BurdaStyle Magazine: 09-2012-134 (Designer dress) - Type:Dresses  | | Viewed 272 times
| 1 more reviews | Review rated Helpful by 1 people Very Helpful by 9 people | | Reviewed by: | Re Becca | 
 | About Re Becca | | TX USA | | Member since: 9/12/05 | | Reviews written: 63 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 32 people | | patterns reviewed: 51 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 1/24/13 4:40 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | More Info provided by Re Becca | | NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue | | | | Fabric: | Wool Woven [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description: Burda: "Overcut shoulders and intriguing seam lines with incorporated front pockets - this sexy style leaves no fashion wishes unfulfilled." This is a sheath dress with waist insets which really does fulfill pattern wishes!
Pattern Sizing: sizes 36 - 44 I sized up to about a 46 while I was tracing. It wasn't as hard as I thought it was going to be since I used my fantastic new SA ruler. I was nervous about it being too tight because it looks so fitted on the model, but it turned out OK. From looking at my pictures I actually think I could take it in soon if I continue to lose weight.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Although the photo is cute, it really doesn't do the seaming and the design justice. It resembles as much as it needs to. IMHO, mine is cuter. As much as I would love access to that fabric, I think the color blocking is the best choice here.
I really tried to get in the pose to match the magazine photo, but I couldn't hold it. You will have to settle for the typical cell phone/office bathroom mirror shot until I find my regular camera.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Uh, no. I couldn't get past the first paragraph, it couldn't tell what two pieces it was telling me to sew together! The pocket/front pieces with the pocket bag can be kind of tricky if its been along time since you made pants with slash pockets.
With Burda magazine patterns, I find it more helpful to follow the numbering of the seam on the pattern (as referred to in the ONLY diagram with the instructions).
You start by sewing the pocket lining to the top edge of the skirt pocket portion, then flipping it to the inside and sewing the pocket bag (inset in light fabric). Then you sew around the outer edge of the pocket bag sewing the lining to the inset (back of the pocket bag) being careful to stop at the intersection of the seam allowance. Pockets and the insets look like this when you are done. Another thing that you can see in this picture is that I had to narrow the pocket opening by stitching a couple of inches on both sides of the opening. when I first sewed this together they bulged terribly. I had a hard time getting them to lay flat, but that could have been due to the way I sized up one size.
One design/construction detail that I really appreciate about this dress is the fact that the lining and the facings are cut to not overlap each other. The lining and the facings are sewn together at the edges, then the facings are sewn to the dress so that all the seams are inclosed and you don't have the bulk of the facing overlapping the complete lining. Here is the inside of the front and the inside of the back showing the nice clean finish.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I loved the front seaming details, it looks slimming and is a great opportunity for color blocking. I crave dresses with broad shoulder lines and pockets, this totally fit the bill.
Fabric Used: Suit weight wool twill. Mixing different fabrics actually makes me nervous, you have to be careful to not mix weights, fibers or textures (unless that is the design element, even then you still have to be careful). Fortunately I found 3 different colors of wool suiting that had exactly the same product description in the selvage.
I used bemberg lining which I buy in nude and black by the bolt (or other large quantity when on sale) instead of digging around for matching lining I usually just use one color or the other for dresses.
For interfacing I used medium weight fusible from Pam Erny (Fashion Sewing Supply) naturally!
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Other than having to size up from a 44 to a 46, it went together just fine. As previously mentioned I did sew each end of the pocket opening shut to keep them from bagging open.
I had to make the shoulders more square by taking in the shoulders an extra half an inch and tapering towards the shoulder point. That is probably just me, I do that with everything!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably will, it is really in style right now and there are many possibilities for mixing colors and textures. And lets face it, once you have gone through the trouble to trace and fit a Burda, you really want to use it!
Conclusion: It has everything I desire: color blocking, broad shoulder line and pockets! You can't argue with that!
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 Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
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13 Comments
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I love your dress and the color blocking is definitely the way to go. Thanks for the great tips in your review too, it really does help all of us who go to sew this. Very figure-flattering, I really like this version of it.
1/24/13 5:04 PM
Gorgeous! The style looks great on you and the coour blocking looks really smart.
1/24/13 10:55 PM
This dress is flattering & modern.. looks great!
1/25/13 0:44 AM
Really nice dress! Very informative review.
1/25/13 6:54 AM
Thanks for being the first to review this dress, it looks intriguing and is on trend, with colour blocking potential, I do love the interesting seaming and fit that BS is known for...
1/25/13 7:22 AM
Great Job - thanks for sharing!!
1/25/13 8:09 AM
Love the color blocking, really makes the dress! Nice job, thanks for the review!
1/25/13 8:10 AM
I am really drawn to the pattern and your version is great! Glad to see the style on a real person too.
1/25/13 9:32 AM
Beautiful and love your choice of colors and how they are blocked. You look amazing in this dress.
1/25/13 11:29 AM
You are right, the shoulders/sleeves on this one are great. You are so on target with your color blocking! And...I want one of those SA rulers, too.
1/25/13 1:58 PM
This dress looks fantastic colorblocked!
1/25/13 2:49 PM
Happy to see this pattern made up. Great looking dress!
1/25/13 6:48 PM
THis is a fabulous dress. So good to see it on a real woman to, rather than the slender Burda models. You look fantastic.
1/27/13 5:30 PM