Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Papercut Patterns: 1006 (Watson Jacket) - Type:Coat/Jacket |
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Review rated Very Helpful
by 3 people
|About RMJ |
|Member since: 12/14/06 |
|Reviews written: 25|
|Favored by: 2 people|
|patterns reviewed: 22|
|Posted on:||11/18/12 7:14 PM |
|Last Updated:||11/18/12 7:18 PM|
Pattern Info provided by RMJ
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
|Fabric:||Faux Suede [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Pattern Description: |
Double breasted fitted jacket with capelet, flat Peter Pan collar, back darts and one piece sleeve. Jacket is fully lined. Can be made as a sleeveless version.
XS, S, M & L. I started with XS at bust and waist and XXS at hip, based on my measurements and the size chart on the papercut site. But then I took the whole jacket in by 2 inches at the side seams. I probably should have made the XXS.
The pattern is on nice quality brown paper. I was going to iron the pattern (something I rarely remember to do) but the ink stuck to my iron so I had to use a press cloth.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it?
Not quite, I had to make design changes due to my fitting issues/alterations.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Mostly easy to follow. They come in a nice little booklet with text and illustrations. I found two steps having to do with the shoulder/capelet area hard to understand, but the pieces fit together so well it was easy to figure out how they should go. I think she forgot to include a step to sew the side seams but it is obvious when that should happen.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the capelet. I dislike that the front has very little shaping.
Faux suede. Probably not the best choice. She recommends a midweight woven. I used red for most of it, and black for the center front and collar. I cut the capelet on the crossgrain because the fabric draped better that way. Bemberg rayon lining.
Fitting alterations you made:
I lengthened it by an inch above the waist so the seam between the upper and lower back was at my waist. I made a muslin from soil separator fabric, made my usual alterations in the shoulder/bust area, increased the hip area a bit since it seemed tight, and thought everything was fine. But the alterations didn't work so well in the stiffer fashion fabric. I had altered the princess seam to give a little more room in the bust, but that threw off the capelet attachment (attaching a straight capelet edge to a curved princess seam). So I rounded the corners of the capelet front and didn't attach them all the way down. My upper back is a little rounded and thus the back capelet pleat didn't hang well. I decided to split the capelet down the middle of the back and round those corners, too.
Once the side seams were sewn, it made me look fat. This was surprising since I'm 5'4" and 105 pounds. The black rectangular panel of the center front didn't help. I took off 1/2" from each side seam (2" total) - this put me about where I would have been with XXS. I also took in the princess seams about 1/4" at the waist to give it a little shape. I changed the front to be single-breasted instead of double-breasted.
I flattened the sleeve cap a little so there wouldn't be so much faux suede to ease in. I think it would be fine in a less stiff fabric.
Design changes you made:
Changes to capelet due to fitting issues. The changes will also make it easier to raise my arms, and I like to be able to do that easily in a jacket.
Would you sew it again?
I probably won't sew it again because there are so many interesting patterns for jackets I usually don't make more than one of each.
Would you recommend it to others?
I would recommend it highly if you've made a lined jacket before and if you don't usually need to make alterations for bust, shoulder or rounded back . Because of the capelet and facing, alterations in those areas are difficult and my recommendation would be for advanced sewers.
Cute jacket. Pieces fit together really well if you don't make alterations. Fitting alterations in the bust/shoulder are difficult and can affect the hang of the capelet.
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