|This pattern is described as a drop-waisted dress with pleated skirt with neckline and sleeve variations and individual pattern pieces for slim, average and curvy fit and for A, B, C and D cup sizes. It is part of Simplicity's Amazing Fit Collection.|
I made view B's neckline (rounded) with view C's sleeves (none). I was going to make the 3/4 sleeves, but the pleats at the sleeve cap just looked weird and pointy in my fabric.
Recommended fabrics are laundered cottons, chambray, pique, sateen, crepe, sueded silks and rayons, voile, brocade, satin, shantung, taffeta, linen and linen blends. I made mine from a silk/wool Oscar de la Renta woven fabric from Mood Fabrics. I underlined it with an ancient silk organza from my stash and lined it with a silk crepe de chine from Mood.
The sizes range from 4 to 22. I made my usual 10 in a slim A cup. I took in a little at upper side seams and along the side bodice at the princess seam and let out a touch at the waist. I am the opposite of curvy.
I did not really follow the directions, but they looked clear enough. I underlined all pattern pieces, then sewed the bodice together, then sewed the pleats of the skirt (pleats always make me feel a little slow on the uptake), and then sewed the skirt together and then sewed the bodice to the skirt. I handpicked the zipper and attached a hook and eye at the neckline. I sewed the skirt lining, gathering the waist instead of doing pleats so I would not have back to back pleats at the waistline, and attached it to the skirt at the waist seam allowance which was pressed up towards the bodice. I slipstitched along the zipper. I then sewed the bodice lining and slipstitched it to the bodice at the neck and armholes. I then attached the bodice lining to the skirt lining by folding under the bodice seam allowance and slip stitching it to the seam line of the skirt and then slipstitched the lining along the zipper. I hand underlined along the neck and armholes. Finally, I hemmed the skirt and skirt lining and placed swing tacks at the seams.
Does anyone else have trouble hemming linings when the skirt is full? I let my lining hang for days. I have a dress form, and I have a chalk puffer on a base for marking hems, but I still can't seem to get a nice even hem. I cut some of it too short and some too long. I am sure that it has to do with the folds, but I can't come up with a good plan. Any tips would be greatly appreciated, preferably those that would make for a perfectly even hem on the first try in less than ten minutes.
Despite my hemming difficulties, I love my new dress. It is my second one using the techniques that I learned from Susan Khalje's Couture Dress class on Craftsy. Making dresses like this takes a very long time, at least for me. I think that I spent almost two months on this one (much quicker than my first one, though). I think, however, that the extra time is completely worth it. Until this class, I had never made a fitted garment that fit so well. In fact, I pretty much wouldn't even try to make a fitted dress because I had had such disappointing results in the past.
Finally, I recommend this pattern. The Amazing Fit collection makes altering for fit pretty simple since it almost fit as cut out with the different cup size and body shape pattern pieces. I like the dropped waist for something a little different with a bit of a retro look, and I like the pleats.
Front view on dress form.
Back view on dress form.
Side view on dress form. I admit it; I just posted this to show off my seams meeting.
Side view on me.