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Pattern Reviews> Burda> 7519 (Woven Cowl Tunic)

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Reviewed by:nicegirl
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Posted on:11/20/12 9:34 AM
Last Updated:7/1/14 11:06 AM
Project Photo:Burda: 7519 by nicegirl

Burda: 7519 by nicegirl  Burda: 7519 by nicegirl    
Pattern Photo:Burda 7519
Burda Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Great Wardrobe Builder
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 11 people   
See other patterns in this category: Tops    
Available for sale on PR: $7.46 (See envelope) Click to Buy
Current Tags What is a Tag:
Fabric:sari silk  [See other projects in this fabric]
**COPPER DRESS**
Fabric Used:
A copper stretch silk purchased from the G Street Fabrics $7.97/yd (now $8.97/yd) silk table. Total cost, excluding pattern (I included the cost in the original top): Around $18.

Changes from first version:
-When I made this the first time, I fully lined the top and used the back lining to finish the neckline.  This substantial fabric didn't need lining, so I made some self bias tape to finish the back neckline before sewing the shoulder seams.

-I found this gorgeous copper silk on G Street's $7.97/yd (now $8.97) silk table.  I bought the whole piece and managed to get this dress and a t-shirt out of it, with no scraps to spare.  I had to use a pocket facing because I didn't have enough of the fabric for the entire back pocket pieces, but didn't want the pocket lining fabric to show.

-The sleeve hem is very long and very round, which is a pretty deadly combination for getting a nice flat hem.  I experimented with the differential feed on my serger until I got a nice 3 thread gather to take up some of the volume at the hem. Then I pressed under the serged edge, and folded it over again on itself before stitching.  I got a nice flat narrow hem in a tricky fabric on a tricky shape using this method and was quite pleased with myself.

Conclusion
I was fairly disappointed in the dress when I finally put it on.  It was my first project for Fall and it does look like a Fall dress--but more in a Pilgrim-y sort of way than a chic sort of way.  Belting it helps, as does the shorter length, but it's much more dowdy than I expected.  The volume just doesn't work on me.  Which I already knew from the first time I made it.  I don't know why I made it again.

I do like that it has pockets, though!  And the accidental shirttail hem is a detail I also like.  I guess with that much volume, when you add a belt it distorts the hemline.  Another reason to avoid this style.

All photos are here and the blog post is here.


**ORIGINAL REVIEW: BORDER PRINT TOP**
Pattern Description:
Misses' loose-fitting cowl top can be made of woven or knit. Top or tunic length. Option of draped sleeve.

I cut between the top and tunic lengths and used the sleeve.

Pattern Sizing:
34-46. I cut a 34 at the shoulders and bust, transitioning to a 38 at the hip.

Fabric Used:
A sari border print silk purchased from Fabric Mart many years ago for $9.99/yd.
Lined with cotton batiste, $4/yd from Vogue Fabrics (they appear not to carry it anymore)
Total cost, including pattern and notions: Around $30. Expensive for me!

Time to Make:
I added a lining and took my time matching the print motifs, so this took about 7 hours.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like that it's a woven pullover cowl, and I was very much drawn to the sleeves.

I am a little disappointed in how the sleeves turned out; they don't show the distinct tiers promised on the pattern envelope.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Pretty much, except for the degree of drape on the sleeves.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
These instructions were mediocre. I didn't like the construction order, and the instruction on the sleeve was inadequate. I've described how I put it together below.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
-I took a lot of care with pattern matching for this project, and the
matches are pretty much spot on (I'm not going to pretend it's perfect, of course!). I pinned at each black line and used the walking foot to ensure even feed of the top and bottom fabric.

-Added a CB seam for swayback shaping.

-I normally hem tops at the high hip for the most flattering spot on me, but I wanted a couple longer tops to wear with my jeggings. I cut in between the shirt and tunic length on the pattern.

-I lined this top as the silk was quite sheer.

To cut the front lining, I folded down the self-facing on the pattern and traced where it ended. In cutting the fashion fabric, I added a 1/4 inch seam allowance at the top of the self-facing, and in cutting the lining I added a 1/4 seam allowance above the marked line. I stitched the two pieces together using the serger and pressed well. This creates a neat finish on the inside, and by keeping the front self-facing intact there is no chance of the lining showing at the cowl.

-I wasn't overly impressed with the construction order and method for this project, so I used my own preferred method for cowl necks.

-First, I finished the back neckline by sewing the fashion fabric and back lining right sides together at the neckline, using the serger to trim off the seam allowance, and flipping and pressing.

-Next, sandwich the back shoulder with the front and its self-facing/lining. The fold line goes at the neckline/inner edge of the back shoulder. Stitch, finish the seam allowances, and turn. The seam allowances will automatically turn toward the front. Press.

-Next I sewed the side seams, starting on the fashion fabric and continuing onto the lining.

-I treated the fashion fabric and lining as one at the armscye. This method does create a visible seam inside the garment; it is not neatly finished as a fully-lined garment would be. This can be remedied by setting the sleeve only into the fashion fabric, folding down and pressing the lining seam allowance, and then hand stitching the lining to the armscye's seam allowance. I don't go to the trouble unless it's a special garment.

-The one review
of this pattern that discusses the sleeves mentioned that they are
really restrictive. Cutting out the voluminous sleeve pattern, I didn't see how this was possible. The instructions weren't clear on how to install the sleeve. The sleevecap is longer than the armscye so at first I overlapped the finished lower edges of the sleeves. Whoa. I couldn't even pull the sleeve over my arm enough to get the shoulder to my shoulder. How that much fabric can be too tight, I don't understand, but I stopped doubting the reviewer.

I ripped out the sleeves. This time I eased the sleeve cap and abutted the finished edges of the sleeve so they met exactly at the side seam. Huge improvement. The sleeves are no longer tight and uncomfortable. However, I am a little disappointed in them. The distinct tiers of drapes pictured on the envelope don't really show up in my project, though the print could be obscuring their appearance a little.

-After carefully pressing the hem exactly at the border motif, I machine blind hemmed the fashion fabric. The blind hem stitches disappear pretty well into the border print. The lining, which hangs free below the armscye, was hemmed with a regular straight stitch.

Conclusion
This can *almost* be worn as a true tunic, but the side view is pretty atrocious so I will likely wear it belted at all times. We can wear jeans to work on Fridays. I always feel like I should wear a nicer top to go with them and this really fits the bill. I am happy both with the pattern and that I have finally sewn up this special fabric!

This is one of those things that I think doesn't look as good in the
photos as in real life. It looks more bulky than it really is--the silk
is very lightweight and the batiste lining is also light.

All photos are here and the blog post is here.
Available for sale on PR: $7.46 (See envelope)Click to Buy
 
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7 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
SewWil said...
Very pretty top. Perfect with your jeggings.
11/20/12 10:00 AM
marec said...
This is such a flirty top-and in that fabric print it is even more fun. I love it, and would wear it in a heartbeat. I appreciate the inclusion of the side view because you are right...even in silk, it hangs outward. Have fun wearing this.
11/20/12 10:54 AM
Mufffet said...
Nice job on this one. Lovely fabric. :)
11/20/12 12:20 PM
Vintage Joan said...
Very nice -- great review!
11/20/12 12:56 PM
Darlenesews said...
Like the orange dress. I just started sewing for my Fall pieces. Might have to add this to the collection
7/1/14 4:18 PM
Darlenesews said...
Like the orange dress. I just started sewing for my Fall pieces. Might have to add this to the collection
7/1/14 4:18 PM
miausiau said...
I was disappointed in this one when I sewed it up. I thought the sleeves would be a nice feature, but for me it was just too much going on and not in a good way. The fabric is pretty and thanks for the detailed review.
7/3/14 0:17 AM
 
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