|This is one of the Amazing Fit Simplicity patterns and a Pattern Review Best Pattern of 2010. It has princess seams, a straight skirt with a back slit and neckline and sleeve variations. It has individual pattern pieces for slim, average and curvy fits and A, B, C and D cup sizes. I made the rounded neck with no sleeves.|
Recommended fabrics are lightweight poplin, lightweight sateen, lightweight wool and wool blends, sandwashed silk, sueded silks/rayons, silk linen, lightweight double knits, soft lightweight linen and linen blends. I made my dress from a lovely wool and silk tweed that seems to fall apart if I look at it. I will be cleaning little bits out of my sewing room for months. I underlined it with a silk organza from Susan Khalje's online shop and lined it with a silk crepe de chine from Mood.
I made my usual size 10 with slim and A cup pattern pieces. Like the last Amazing Fit dress pattern that I made, the fit was nearly perfect out of the envelope. I took 1/8 inch from each princess seam curve of the side front pattern pieces and 1/4 inch from each side hip, in each case flattening the curve a little.
I made a full muslin raising the neckline by 1/2 inch, just for personal preference. I tried both the cap sleeve and the short sleeve to help me decide which one I liked best. I liked them both on my dress form but much preferred the cap sleeve on me. Once I made my dress, however, I didn't like the cap sleeve so much in my fabric, so my dress is sleeveless.
I then underlined all of the pattern pieces with the organza.
To make the bodice, I sewed the front princess seams, sewed the back bodice darts and sewed the shoulder seams and side seams. I then turned under the seam allowance at the neckline and at the armholes, clipping like crazy.
At this point, I decided to add some trim around the neckline from MJ Trims to make it a little more interesting.
I then sewed the skirt by sewing the darts and the skirt seams. I converted the kick pleat to a French vent (instead of turning both seam allowances to one side, I just pressed them open).
I sewed the bodice to the skirt and hemmed the skirt. At this point, I attached the zipper by handpicking it and put in a hook and eye at the neck.
I then repeated the construction of the dress with the lining.
I sewed the skirt lining waist seam allowance to the skirt waist seam allowance. I attached the lining hem to the skirt hem with a fold to allow me to sit without the lining pulling on the dress. I then attached the bodice lining to the bodice at the neckline and at the armholes with a fell stitch. I understitched by hand along the neck and armholes and back slit to keep my lining from peeking out. I turned the bodice waist seam allowance under and sewed the bodice lining to the skirt lining at the seam line. I then attached the center back lining slit to the zipper.
This is a very nice pattern. The only fiddly parts are matching the princess seams, side seams and darts of the bodice to those of the skirt.
I like my dress. I am not used to making or wearing dresses with straight skirts, but I think that it turned out pretty well.
Dress form view.
Back view on me. Those side wrinkles are because I am doing something funky with my hip. The wrinkles are not there when I am standing like a sane person, which never seems to be when I am posing for pictures.