BurdaStyle Magazine: 01-2013-123B (Light Cowl Dress) - Type:Dresses
Review submitted in One Pattern, Many Looks Contest  | | Viewed 1065 times
| 1 more reviews | Review rated Helpful by 1 people Very Helpful by 14 people | | Reviewed by: | Heatherrique | 
 | About Heatherrique | | CA USA | | Member since: 6/27/06 | | Reviews written: 286 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 100 people | | patterns reviewed: 286 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 1/12/13 8:32 PM | | Last Updated: | 2/1/13 1:05 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | BurdaStyle Magazine Pattern Info More Info provided by Heatherrique | | Pattern Rating: | Easy & Great for Beginners | | NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue | | | | Fabric: | Rayon [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| * To qualify for the "one-pattern many looks" contest, only the dresses are counted from this review. I made four views of dress pattern 123 B, which simply is an extended view of 123 A, the top. They are constructed similarly, with the only difference is the additional length for the dress.
Four versions of dress 123B
Pattern Description:
Dress with draped neckline.
Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 34-36-38-40-42. I sewed a 38 at the shoulders and 40 elsewhere.
Update January 30, 2013
Fourth version
For this dress, I used fabric remnants from previous projects. The upper portion came from a remnant of a Burda rayon jersey turtleneck and the lower or skirt portion from a remnant of my second dress of the same pattern. I fused the contrasting pieces to get this dress. The only modifications from the original pattern that I had traced and cut were removing 1 1/2" from the upper edge of the sleeves, tapering to 0" at the lower armscyes. For a "non-warped" or smoother skirt edge finish, I hand-stitched a 3/4" hem after stay-stitching 1/4" from the raw edge.
Update January 26, 2013
Side view of third version in a blue lightweight polyester jacquard with bias striped band at midriff, below the bust and above the waistline.
Front piece of the dress, not yet sewn to the back piece, view from the inside
Conclusion: Not the most flattering piece, especially with those as myself with a short torso. In the spirit of the "many looks, one pattern" contest, I wanted to try something out of the ordinary such as using striped fabric to spruce up a mono-tone dress.
Update January 16, 2013
Second version of dress
I wanted to try something out of my comfort zone and create a unique color-block shift dress while the color-block/silhouette trend is still going strong. An upcoming concert of one of my favorite cover bands in March gave me an incentive to work on this dress. For my fourth version, I used a medium weight knit and I cut out 4 "protractor" shapes of themed fabric (cotton) on the bias. I sewed each pair at the ends, wrong sides together and clipped the curves to reduce "bunching" before stitching them to each of the two cutout portions of the dress that started two inches below the lower armscye. The cutouts or insets of the dress have the same shape as the themed fabric but each edge taken in 1" to accommodate the 1/2" seam. Stitching the fabric cutouts to the dress was unexpectedly quite a fiddle-some task and occupied the most time in the process. The cut-outs came out 2" lower than intended on my figure, but maybe it was better that it turned out way than the cutouts affecting the chest/bust area.
Other Modifications
The dress needed further tweaking to go from "frumpy" to "dinner-and-dancing" ready.
*Removed 3" from the length that I used for the previous dress from the same pattern (third version)
*Also removed 2" from the sleeve length (past the shoulders), tapering to 0" at the lower armscye (under the arm).
Now, I have a "little black dress" with my first attempt at color-blocking with unconventional fabric. I am still not sure about it, I will take a fashion risk and wear it at least for one evening out...
First version of dress, with belt in a floral printed Italian viscose knit. I added 14" to edge of my top pattern.
First version of dress, without belt. I used a soft Italian viscose knit from EOS.
Back
Top, second version from pattern #123A
First version of top from pattern #123A
Four views of draped front pattern
Pattern Description:
From Burda Style magazine, "From sewing machine to night life. The casual shirt with draped neckline is a real last-minute piece, perfect for beginners..."
Pattern Sizing:
Misses' 34-36-38-40-42
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes
Fabric
I plan to reduce my stash of fabric remnants from previous projects, Two-piece "easy" patterns such as this pattern #123A is ideal for 1 to 1 1/8 yards of those remnants.
It was silly to create second versions that look "similar" to the original in the same fabric. But I thought it would be wise to "practice" with familiar fabric and make adjustments before delving into new fabric
Second top version of 123A showing the tendency for the neckline to "slip and slide" a little in this fabric.
For the second version of top 123A, I used a rayon woven which was a remnant of Butterick 5645.
Due to fabric constraints, I cut the front into an upper piece and a lower piece (the seam that joins the pieces landed between my waistline and bust. Also, I cut the back into pieces, joined at a center seam.
Back of second version of 123A
Original top, different lighting
For the original version, I used a rayon jersey knit which was a remnant of a 1970's Butterick See & Sew 5782 turtleneck
Since I was not able to cut the back as one complete piece on the fold, I cut the back into an upper and lower piece. Working with certain prints such as zig-zags and stripes are tricky, especially while trying to achieve continuity and/or symmetry of design. So, I tried the best what I can with what I had. The upper piece is a 180 degree rotation of the lower piece.
Back of original version
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, after having experience with sewing 2-pieced outfits with draped/cowl necklines. The instructions were fine for an "easy" pattern.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the overall simplicity sewing construction (only 2 pieces if you omit the binding strip for the back neckline) and the amount of drape of the cowl, being neither too low nor too high, just "right". I have no dislikes.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
* I omitted the bias finding for the back of the neckline. I folded a 3/8" hem to the inside, tucking under the raw edge and top-stitched. Before pinning and stitching the shoulder seams, I made sure while turning the front facing to the back, I "catch" the end of the back neckline.
Neckline/shoulder seam
*My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waist
* Narrowed the upper center back by making taking in the center seam at the upper back by 3/8", reducing the width of the upper back by 3/4".
*Raised the lower edge of the armscyes 1 3/4" for modesty.
*Shortened the cap sleeves by 1/2".
*I took in the side seams 1/4" to reduce "sack" look.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes! Most likely I am working on the next one as you are reading this. I definitely recommend this pattern, especially if you have this issue of Burda Style.
Conclusion:
A nice pattern that is easy to personalize for fit and has the potential to be a reliable base pattern to create a variety of looks.
blog update: fourth version with fox printed bodice
blog post update: blue dress
blog post update: black dress
floral dress and a new Janome sewing machine with whiskers
original blog post
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33 Comments
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Just love every one of these !!! The style suits you beautifully. Thank you for your VH review :)
1/12/13 10:52 PM
Pretty tops and dress! I loved the version from May's magazine so may try this one as well.
1/12/13 11:16 PM
I just love this style and it suits so many people. You look terrific in it. Love the dress especially! The colors are nice for you. Another good pattern. Thanks. :)
1/13/13 0:26 AM
WOW! These are all just perfect on you...J
1/13/13 3:51 AM
I love everything you sew (and pick to sew)!!!!
1/13/13 7:46 AM
Love these-what a useful pattern!
1/13/13 7:51 AM
Really nice style on you, your fabric is truly beautiful. and that Hello Kitty Sewing Machine could not be more fun. Sounds like we have the same husband they just come along and know how things work. Hum is this going to be Your machine or Heathers? LOL
1/13/13 10:19 AM
Well, I like all three of these but find the colors of version 2 particularly stunning on you and slightly psychedelic-- not sure if that was your intention, but looks great! Enjoy that adorable new sewing machine!
1/13/13 8:46 PM
Thank you everyone!
1/14/13 7:35 PM
Pretty clever! Great results!
1/16/13 1:15 PM
Fantastic. You look great in all your versions.
1/16/13 1:57 PM
You have the most lovely wardrobe full of your beautiful creations. How fun. You must be compliments all the time! Love this one.
1/16/13 4:25 PM
" I cut out 4 "protractor" shapes of themed fabric on the bias." Too funny! I love all your versions but the last one is the best!
1/16/13 6:33 PM
All versions are lovely, beautifully sewn and look ever so perfect on you!
1/16/13 7:59 PM
A real TNT pattern for you! I love them all. What a difference the fabric makes! Your color-blocking idea is fantastic, so clever! Thanks for the review.
1/16/13 9:28 PM
I love your LBD. The shorter length is great on you.
1/17/13 7:06 AM
All four versions are so pretty and I love the black shoes too!
1/17/13 7:21 AM
I like the protractor-shaped inset fabric--how fitting for a math teacher. All great projects!
1/19/13 7:08 PM
Now this is what I consider variety. You worked this pattern! All looks are fantastic. Nice work.
1/21/13 8:31 PM
Very impressive!
1/22/13 10:05 AM
Very cute ! makes me want to make a cowl neckline shirt for myself.
1/25/13 8:00 AM
Lovely dresses. The side cutout pieces look very cool!
1/25/13 9:19 PM
I love the print contrasts on your solids! Beautiful dresses!
1/29/13 0:54 AM
Wonderful dresses. I love the neckline. Each one has such a different look
1/29/13 8:45 PM
Your dresses look great on you. Very nice. Love the contrasts.
1/29/13 9:52 PM
I just wanted to look another time and now you have already four very different great dresses. Great job
1/31/13 3:44 AM
Love all these so much! The floral one is my favorite.
2/1/13 1:13 PM
Congrats on a great variety of dresses! Great work.
2/1/13 1:49 PM
Excellent! Four great looks.
2/1/13 7:51 PM
You have taken this pattern and made it work for beautifully for you! I love all of these.
2/3/13 7:19 AM
Great work, and great contest entry. Good luck! I know you will be enjoying those dresses - all so very pretty on you.
2/4/13 4:49 PM
Great dresses and also congratulations on not being afraid to play around with the additional fabrics. I love the "protractor" pieces, they look really good. I think you're right about the wide band, (it still looks good but creates a boxier shape than the others). Would it be hard to change to a narrow band? Or maybe break it up with a black belt? I'd hate to think you weren't going to wear it!
2/5/13 2:50 PM
What terrific imagination you have to make such dramatically different dresses from one pattern! I love them all!
2/7/13 5:20 PM