Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Marfy: 2592 (Dress with double sleeves) - Type:Dresses |
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Review rated Very Helpful
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|Posted on:||2/4/13 11:21 PM |
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|Pattern Description: This modern, trendy form-fitting dress has double sleeves: short raglan and long tapered. It has a double collar with opening. The skirt has a low waistline with two soft pleats and the hemline can be made with or without drawstring to create a bubble effect. Suggested fabric: wool plaid and knit with overstitching in wool yarn. 2 meters.|
Pattern Sizing:42-46. I made a 42.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Mostly. I didn't do the bubble hem and I also removed the pleat from the skirt. I also think the viscose in my fabric caused it to not have quite enough body to make the collar puffy like shown in the picture.
Construction Notes: As drafted, you will need an 18" zipper for the front bodice. I ordered a 20" just to be on the safe side and shortened it 1" after insertion (I lengthened my bodice 1"). For extra support I interfaced the zipper edge using Pro-Sheer Elegance from Fashion Sewing Supply.
When sewing the skirt to the bodice I was very careful to make sure the end of the zipper was just above the seamline. I then clipped the corner, stitched, and then clipped the corner even more and used some Fray-Check at the point to prevent any unraveling. I slipstitched the edges of the fabric together over the zipper end so I wouldn't have a big block of metal showing.
The bodice is rather unusual in that it has the raglan lines for the short sleeve, but the long sleeve is a normal set-in sleeve shape. This is accomplished by an inset piece by the shoulder that turns the armhole from a raglan into a typical set-in sleeve type armhole. I interfaced this piece with Pro-Tricot from Fashion Sewing Supply so it wouldn't be pulled too much by the weight of the dress. The short raglan sleeve is shaped by a dart at the shoulder line.
In keeping with the fashion sketch I finished most edges by hand with a blanket stitch using embroidery floss split in half (3 strands instead of the full 6). The embroidery floss color is gray with a hint of lilac that nicely brings together the purple woven and gray knit.
Marfy chose to include the skirt lining pieces. Usually Marfy expects you to draft these yourself. I chose not to line this dress as I always will wear a slip with it. For added structure I interfaced the skirt hem using a medium weft interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply.
When constructing the collar first fold it in half, then do the pleats. I just sewed the collar to the neckline and serged the seams together, then topstitched it down in place so it wouldn't flip up and the shape of the collar would be preserved.. The topstitching is hidden by the collar.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes: It has long sleeves! It works well with heavier fabrics. The double sleeve detail is very pear-friendly. The collar adds a little extra warmth. Between the knit body/sleeves and A-line skirt it is a really comfortable dress.
Dislikes: I didn't like the skirt design (just seemed weird to me to have pleats pointing toward my crotch!) so I removed the pleats from the pattern piece before cutting.
Fabric Used:Medium weight herringbone wool/viscose blend (Fabric Mart). Sleeves, under shoulder, and torso are a heavier weight Marc Jacobs wool doubleknit, also from Fabric Mart. The zipper is a #5 aluminum zipper with foxtail pull from Zipper Stop.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Design: Removed the pleats from the front skirt and skipped on making the belt.
- Added 2" width to sleeves at bicep/elbow. I ended up taking out 1.5" during fitting.
- Widened sleevecap by 1" and flattened 1/2"
- Added 2" length to sleeves
- Did a 1/2" broad back adjustment, and adjusted sleevecap to match
- I left the short raglan sleeve as-is, but for the underlay piece that the long sleeve is attached to I narrowed the shoulder 1/4"
- Lengthened waist 1"
- Lengthened skirt 2"
- Added a total of 5" to the hips and took a little flare out of the skirt
- Added 1" to CB skirt, splitting the difference between the upper waist and lower hem
- I also ended up removing 1" from each side of the back knit piece. The fit in the back isn't perfectly smooth but it is as acceptable as it will ever be considering there's no darts or seams to help shape it.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't think I would sew this again because it is a very unusual dress. I would recommend it to those living in colder winter climates and to those that are pear shaped, as the short raglan sleeves really balance my figure.
Conclusion: It certainly doesn't look like any dress I've ever seen in RTW. I can't decide if that's a good or bad thing!
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