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Paco Peralta: Chinese Jacket (Chinese Jacket) - Type:Coat/Jacket    printable version
Viewed 322 times 1 more reviews
Review rated Very Helpful by 7 people   
Reviewed by:marthamyers
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Friend of PR
About marthamyersstarstarstarstar
GA USA
Member since: 11/14/05
Reviews written: 138
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 58 people
patterns reviewed: 123
Bio: more...
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Posted on:1/24/13 9:06 PM
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Photo:

Pattern Info provided by marthamyers

Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
Current Tags What is a Tag:
Fabric:Silk Noil  [See other projects in this fabric]
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Pattern Description:
Swing-style jacket with 3/4 length cut-on sleeves, round neck, and curved hem vents. Also included are in-seam pockets, and separate pattern pieces for the lining.

Pattern Sizing:
S,M,L; I made size M and it is very roomy. Great for layering.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I think it did look similar.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The pattern included a single page with sizing info, fabric suggestions, and fabric needed. There were no formal instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Ever since I saw blue mooney's review of this jacket, I wanted to make it. Also I became enamored of many of this designer's patterns and ordered three.

Once the pattern arrived, I was even more intrigued. The pattern is hand-drawn (in pencil) with all the sizes. It includes pattern pieces for the front and back, plus in-seam pockets, front facing, back facing, and hem facing for the front and the back. It is beautifully drafted.

I like the simple styling that provides a pretty silhouette, as well as opportunity to highlight fabric, or even use as an art-to-wear palette.

Fabric Used:
Face fabric is silk noil. The batting is cotton flannel and the backing (lining) is bemberg ambiance. I used silk dupioni for the hem of the sleeves due to an extreme shortage of fabric.

As blue mooney noted in her review, this pattern really requires 60 inch width in the fabric unless you are OK with piecing the sleeves. I was happy to piece the sleeves in order to use my 45 inch wide piece of fabric. I'm thinking that, if you had enough fabric, you could also put a seam down the back and use more narrow fabric. I was too short of fabric to consider this.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made no significant changes in the style. I really like the style, as is.

I decided to use the Mary Ray quilting technique that produces a soft wearable garment. I used cotton flannel for batting and bemberg amibiance for the backing. I cut each piece and then channel quilted it before assembling the jacket.

As a result of the quilting, I omitted the lining and finished the interior edges with Hong Kong binding.

For closures, I made three bias tubes from scraps of the silk noil and sewed one end inside the right front seam. I stitched the other end of each tube to the edge with a hand satin stitch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I think this would be a cute blouse too, but I would need to go down at least one size. I definitely recommend this pattern to others, though perhaps not a beginner. However, a beginner could certainly use this pattern if she has access to some basic (e.g. in-seam pockets, lining a jacket, etc) sewing instructions.

Conclusion:
I really, really like this jacket. It is comfortable and I feel good in it. I'm looking forward to making the other two patterns I ordered from Paco Peralta also - the draped top (more for warm weather than I have now) and the T jacket.

More Pix:
third pocket (since I had to piece the facing anyway :|)
button loops
buttoned up
On me
back

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15 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
JillyBe said...
Another winner from you - just beautiful! Technique, fabric, styling - perfect :)
1/24/13 9:27 PM
Knitz said...
Lovely!
1/24/13 9:29 PM
ArtAttack said...
This is stunning...beautiful work. Love the interesting detail around the buttons and what cool buttons!
1/24/13 10:42 PM
SavageCoco said...
Gosh, you do beautiful work. Lovely channeling!
1/25/13 0:53 AM
GoodbyeValntino said...
So pretty, Martha!
1/25/13 5:55 AM
FreyaStark said...
Very stylish. The quality of your work on the inside is impressive, too.
1/25/13 6:29 AM
NJcowgirl said...
Beautiful.
1/25/13 9:52 AM
BexInMD said...
Simply beautiful. Your inside finishing is as elegant as the outside.
1/25/13 9:57 AM
homewerk said...
Your work raises finishing details to new levels and inspires me to take on new challenges. Love that third pocket! Thanks for a thoughtful review.
1/25/13 10:28 AM
MizLiz said...
Ditto to all the above. You are inspirational !! Enjoy wearing your art.
1/25/13 10:40 AM
carolynw said...
I can quite understand why you love this jacket - I am so in love with it too even more so since this is one of my colours. Your finishing details are just so perfect. I fI saw this for sale I would'nt ask how much - would just peel off the $$$.
1/25/13 10:58 AM
chenille said...
Beautiful and a lovely color on you.
1/25/13 11:22 AM
blue mooney said...
From fabric choice to the quilting to the closures - a beautiful piece from start to finish!
1/25/13 1:55 PM
2 Airedales n Me said...
There you go again - another BEAUTIFUL garment. And your finishing is delightful, unexpected and perfect (particularly love the bias striped binding). Thanks for bringing this pattern to our attention and for your great review.
1/26/13 12:47 PM
cocosloft said...
Oh, this jacket is just beautiful. What wonderful touches in the quilting.
1/26/13 8:25 PM
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