|Pattern Description: |
Misses shirtdress has double pleats/released darts at front and back waist, elastic to fit, collar with stand, and pleated sleeve with binding. I omitted the elastic.
34-42. I cut a 34 at the shoulders and bust, 36 at the waist, and 38 at the hip. This ended up with less ease than I expected based on the line drawing, so I probably should have sized to a 38/40 at the waist/hip.
A polyester (possibly blend) woven purchased in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, Turkey for $6/meter. It is semi-sheer and very delicate.
The buttons are from a Fabric Mart 4 pound bag.
Total cost, including magazine subscription amortization but not including travel costs: around $15.
Time to Make:
For a shirtdress, this is a rather simple pattern. No cut-on placket, for instance. However, my difficult fabric added time to the construction. It probably took me about 12 hours.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I really like the classic shirtdress look with the released dart variation.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I omitted the elastic bands. Otherwise, yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I did not need them.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
-They have you bind the sleeve before setting it in, which is an interesting idea. In reality, the sleeve ended up too tight around the bicep, so I had to undo my binding, let out the pleats, stitch extra length to the binding, and then re-sew it on. Next time I'll just wait until the sleeve is set in and fitted as usual!
-For this shirtdress I tried a new method for sewing the collar and stand.
I started by sewing the collar band to the neckline, stitching the two collar bands together up to where the collar is attached.
Next, I stitched the completed collar (stitched, turned, and topstitched) to the outer collar band.
The final step is the turn under the hem allowance on the inner collar band and topstitch in place. I chose to sew the collar to the outer and topstitch the inner because the inner collar band is the one that shows in wearing, as I planned to wear the collar open.
I found less stressful than the usual method of making the collar/collar band unit and then sewing it to the neckline. I never get a nice looking corner where the collar band meets the placket. Here is a closeup.
-My fabric was very narrow, so I cut the back on the fold without shaping, as drafted. I am ok with the look of the back as the blousiness is part of the style. I would probably add a shaped center back seam next time, though.
-As you can see from the line drawing, the dress is meant to have elastic bands from the front to the back darts for fitting. Because of the delicacy of the fabric, I decided to leave it as a semi-fitted style to reduce strain on the seams. Based on the line drawing, I expected the dress to have more ease but it actually only has 2-3 extra inches of ease.
I have been wanting to make this dress since the magazine came out--4 1/2 years ago! After anticipating this project for so long, I was afraid it would be a let down when I finally got to it. Actually, I am so tickled with this dress! It's a great shirtdress variation and fairly simple to sew with its cut-on placket and semi-fitted style.
Alas, I will be pleasantly surprised if I get 10 wears out of this dress due to the extreme fragility of the fabric. There are already weak spots on the seams and it's just going to shred out fairly quickly, despite using French seams. However, while the dress may not be long for this world, the pattern is a keeper! It definitely goes in the rotation.
All photos are here and the blog post is here.