Folkwear: 238 (Le Smoking Jacket) - Type:Loungewear  | | Viewed 103 times
| 2 more reviews | Review rated Helpful by 1 people Very Helpful by 2 people | | Reviewed by: | craigrama | 
| | About craigrama | | TX | | Member since: 10/30/11 | | Reviews written: 3 | | Sewing skills:Advanced Beginner | | patterns reviewed: 3 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 3/8/13 6:57 PM | | Pattern Size: | Plus-Sized | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | Pattern Info provided by craigrama | | Pattern Rating: | Difficult, but great for Advanced Sewers | | | | Fabric: | Velvet [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
|
Pattern Description:
Le Smoking Jacket, Folkwear #238
Made in crushed velvet with embroidered silk accents.
Jacket is a semi-tailored, shawl collared robe with simple belt. No shoulder pads nor lining are included.
This pattern uses some traditional jacket methods (interfaces, pad stitching, etc.) with a large amount of hand sewing. (see below) Total number of cut pieces=37.
Overall Comments:
-Poor cutting instructions (see below)
-Narrow shoulders and arm holes
-A muslin is almost required before construction
-Lots of hand stitching (see below)
-Great practice for stepping into jacket construction
-You can skip the quilting steps if you find some cool pre-quilted fabric
-Need great velvet tips? Try these from Sew4Home. My walking foot still fought with the fabric. Basting was my best friend.
Pattern Sizing:
Small, Med, Large
Unfortunately the men's large (42-44 chest) is cut small in the arms and had to be custom cut. Multiple muslins were created to get the arms to fit properly. Even my size 44 body could not get into the large size muslin. For the jacket owner, his large arms required custom fitting.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes (But more luxurious, due to the fabric choices)
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Not always. See below.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes:
-The overall look.
-A lot cheaper to sew than buying a bespoke velvet smoking jacket, like this one. Oh, and remember to convert the price to USD 
Dislikes:
-Mistakes in cutting instructions = Piece H missing from Layout diagram. Completely missing instructions about cutting some lapel pieces 1/2" wider all around to allow for the machine quilting. You will not find any notation of this size change until page 3 sewing instructions. Surprise! Your quilting or just old fashion cutting can fix this.
-Amount of hand stitching = Some of the collar, pad stitching of lapel, slipstitching of cuffs, slipstitching of final lapel all the way around, slipstitching of hem. I'm not averse to hand stitching, but others may be.
-Some drawings/shading are backwards. These are minor
Fabric Used:
Crushed purple velvet for the body and embrodered silk for contrast. A sample pocket and cuff can be seen here.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Oh my, there were plenty of changes. Some by choice, some by need.
-I did not perform the quilting
-The cuffs were to be silk-felt-interfacing-felt-silk. I removed the interfacing.
-The lapels were to have a second layer of felt within. It was too stiff. I removed.
-Pattern arms did not have enough ease. I added lots.
-The arms were three pieces. I changed them to a simple one piece arm.
-The owner did not want an upper pocket.
-This pattern is not lined. He wants it to be (...when I finally get around to bagging that sucker)
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is a tough questions to answer. I have no plans to make it again. I want a velvet smoking jacket for myself, but following a Victorian jacket design.
For you? Do you like a challenge and want to spoil someone with the results? Then go for it.
Conclusion:
-Make a muslin first
-Practice (a lot) on scrap fabric
-Mercy! I still have to make a simple belt
-And he wants it lined.... Glad I have some purple Bemberg just sitting around....
|
|
 Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
<< Previous Next >>
5 Comments
Login to Add a Comment |
|
|Login|Help]
Great job. Nice review.
3/9/13 7:47 AM
Wow!!! Love it!
3/9/13 8:14 AM
A lot of work but the end result is beautiful
3/9/13 11:45 AM
Wow! I think I'll skip this pattern, but I love the final results.
3/10/13 10:21 AM
Great job! Question. I in the middle of sewing this jacket and a bit confused. (I am using brocade for the jacket and velvet for the lapel). So when I am done with the pad stitching you will see the hand stitches on the back of the lapel? Which would be my brocade fabric. I mean your not going to see it I guess but think that is odd it isn't cover. Am I correct on how this will end up?
4/3/13 8:36 PM