|Pattern Description: Raglan sleeved fitted jacket designed for knits such as boiled wool and fleece.|
Pattern Sizing: 6 - 22. I made a size 6.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. Pretty much. I made a couple of minor tweaks that meant it didn't look exactly as the drawing, but the sleek fit is there.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. The instructions for these patterns are really good. I did use my sewing instruction book for the collar but that was more because I wanted a little more detail and hand holding for that element of the jacket.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Love the comfortable, sleek, and closely fitted shape. I do love really fitted garments but for jackets it can be constricting. Being in boiled wool the jacket stretches. Its like wearing a cardigan but smart enough for meetings. How can you beat comfortable AND smart???
I wasn't fond of the sleeve bands and they are not angled in the way that the drawing seems to suggest. But that's a minor issue. It was simple to lengthen the sleeves so they were all in one.
The pattern is supposed to be made with the seams on the outside. I made mine with seams to the inside but trimmed one seam allowance, pressed the other over it, topstitched it down on the outside, then pinked the excess on the inside.
What I really love about this pattern is its simple to construct, doesn't need interfacing or lining and if you don't do the welt pockets (which I didn't), or add binding by hand (which I did), you can have it made in a weekend, making it a reasonably speedy project. I like knowing I have a TNT jacket pattern that I can "whip up" if I fancy a change. It makes a nice addition to my stable of "takes weeks to do but its worth it in the end" jacket patterns.
Fabric Used: Black boiled wool from Rosenberg's fabrics. It was sold as poly wool, but must have a fair amount of wool in it because the odour of wet sheep during pressing was quite strong.
The binding is a wool knit that I've had marinading in the stash for so long that I couldn't begin to identify the source of it.
The buttons are from Duttons for Buttons and are fabulous.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
From a design viewpoint I left off the pockets, lengthened the sleeves to full length (no sleeve bands), sewed seams on the inside not the outside and bound the edges rather than leaving raw or overlocking them.
From a fit viewpoint, I had to widen the upper back by adding a little to each of the seams and take a touch out of the neckline becuase I have a rounded back, wide shoulder blades and a small neck. I also have a very odd arm conformance which required me to add almost an inch in depth to the upper curve of the raglan at the overarm seam, tapering to nothing just above the elbow to take account of my shoulder/arm bone which rolls forward very prominently.
However, those are the only alterations I made, and overall this was a reasonably painless process once I worked out where the alterations were required.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I'll sew this one again. And I would recommend it. I had to make very few alterations (and I'm fussy about fit to the point of obsession) Interestingly, my mum made this jacket at the same time I did. She made the size 14, and made absolutely NO alterations at all and it fits her perfectly. We are very differently shaped women and I think its a sign of this pattern's quality that we both got a good result with minimal faffing about. HOWEVER, I don't think this pattern would work awfully well in a non-stretch without some alterations for ease. Particularly the sleeves/shoulder area which can be constricting without the ease of some stretch. One of my muslins was in heavy pure cotton sheeting, which is how I found this out. Its not going to be impossible to do, but it would likely need a bit of fiddling.
Conclusion: Great jacket. Quick or quickish to make (depending on the level of detailing you add or hand sewing you decide to undertake). Sleek and very flattering fit on various figure types, good instructions, and the suggested fabrics of boiled wool or fleece make this a smart but comfy jacket which goes as well with jeans as it does with a pencil skirt and heels.