|Pattern Description: |
Cake says: "The Cabarita knit top has cap or elbow length sleeves ending in a wide banded cuff. The front roll collar is based on a 1930's knitting pattern and fits very well into a modern wardrobe. Optional v-shaped "dessert stripe" bias cut back for extra effect and a more flattering fit. The pattern includes a cutting line variation for a plain cut back neck as well as stripe guides for a designer effect!"
This pattern is the first in Cake's new, pared-down RiFFs range, which they explain as: "RiFFs from Cake Patterns are thoughtfully drafted patterns with minimalist instructions and packaging- it's all about the drafting! This top uses logic and your raw measurements at the front waist, full bust and hip measurements so each top will have a fully customized fit! RiFF patterns feature the same intuitive sizing and sewing as other Cake Patterns, without the extra instructions illustrations."
Bust size 30-55"/76-139cm. You select your pattern size based on your bust, then you use your own front waist, waist, and hip measurements to "draw your own side seams" from the bust down.
When I compared my drawn pattern pieces to my knit sloper, they were scarily close (from the bust down), so this method really does work! For comparison's sake, I am a Burda 42 and I sewed the size 35 here for my bust measurement, then drew in the rest according to my other measurements.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes! Mine looks a lot like the photos and the tech drawing, and I followed the advice printed on the pattern pieces for stripe direction, too, which IMHO looks really great. (Photos)
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are very brief, and text only, but they make sense (so better than Burda magazine, LOL!). Also note that there are no layout diagrams included either, though there's plenty of information printed on the pattern pieces themselves to figure out what needs cutting from each.
The suggested order of construction was pretty good, and very close to how I'd have done it, too. Though she did throw me that the sleeve bands were attached to the sleeve edges before sewing the side seams (I'd normally sew them afterwards, and circularly), but considering that the seam is in your underarm, it's not really a big deal if you get a short section of thread tail peeking out there.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Now, a bit of a confession: I wasn't entirely sold on the the collar at first. I thought maybe it might look a bit too costume vintagey, and might get in the way or flop around a bit. But I'm glad I included it as I really like it now, and it really does add to this pattern, which might be a bit too plan in front otherwise.
I really like a lot about this! The V-neck back, the dolman sleeves (in a choice of either short or elbow-length, and of course, the custom side seam sizing. (Sleeve detail photos)
This fabric is a lovely and soft viscose jersey in brown and turquoise from Minerva (and also comes in brown/pink and brown/orange colourways). Minerva don't do half metres so I took the plunge and only ordered 1m, and I'm happy to report that I could easily fit the shorter-sleeved version into it.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn't make any changes here, though I do have a few suggestions for the collar for next time:
a) use lightweight knit interfacing on the collar so it stays in place a bit better (rather than the edges folding over, like you can see below right) and
b) attach it so that the seam is on the right side and therefore hidden under the collar as it hangs, negating the need for any understitching on a narrow serged seam allowance.
(Collar detail photos)
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I may very well sew this again if I've only got 1m of jersey and need a Quick Knit Top to boost my spirits! I'd definitely recommend it, as it's a really great and quick project that's head and shoulders above the average teeshirt pattern. With the pdf version, you can literally go from buying to wearing it in a matter of hours!
Even though this was a new-to-me pattern company and one with sparse instructions, this was definitely a Quick Knit Top in my opinion, and one that has some really great and unique features! I sewed this up in pieces throughout a very busy weekend, and it was definitely the perfect pick-me-up after a disappointing jeans muslin. Quick Knit Tops are always good for what ails you!
For way more photos plus some tips on stripe matching, head over to FehrTrade.com!