|Pattern Description: |
From Folkware #238: Smoking jackets symbolized sophistication during the 1920s and 1930s, both on the silver screen and in real life. Our classy version features contrasting or quilted lapels, cuffs, and pocket trim. Pattern includes instructions for women's knitted tank top to wear underneath.
S, M, L, XL. I made a custom size based off of a prior muslin.
This is the second jacket I have made from this pattern. The original review can be found here. I did not plan on making a second jacket, but the original owner wanted a similar jacket for summer, as the first (velvet and silk) is for winter.
Front view and back view. It doesn't fit well on this dummy, as it's my DTD and not the owner's.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, with notations and modifications I kept from the first construction.
Seersucker, quilt batting and hair canvas (for interfacing).
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
-Entire pattern was drafted from a custom muslin from the first jacket.
-I used quilt batting instead of felt for the padding. Hey, I had it on hand. Plus the owner thought it gave the jacket some "old Hollywood glam".
-There was no contrast fabric used.
-Pockets, cuffs and lapels were made with bias cut seersucker.
-This time, I quilted the cuffs and lapels per the pattern. Buy extra thread. This takes plenty of time and materials.
-I had to make a belt out of leftover pieces, or buy some contrasting fabric. I bought more fabric. Note: there is no belt in the Folkware pattern, just a note about it, so plan for it. I made the belt with 4 layers of seersucker to give it some bulk.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, but not for beginners. And use the notations made in my first review here.
-It's faster the second time around.
-Cotton is so much easier to use, compared to velvet.
-It would really look good with piping around the cuffs, pockets and lapels. Maybe on the third time?
-If using seersucker, consider serging (or zig zag) all edges to reduce fraying.
-It now hangs on the wardrobe, waiting to be found by its new owner.