Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Marfy: 088 (Hooded Gilet) - Type:Activewear |
|Viewed 158 times
Review rated Very Helpful
by 3 people
|Reviewed by:||yorkshire lass|
|About yorkshire lass |
| UNITED KINGDOM|
|Member since: 3/23/06 |
|Reviews written: 81|
|Favored by: 49 people|
|patterns reviewed: 79|
|Posted on:||9/9/13 3:15 PM |
|Pattern Rating:||Great Wardrobe Builder |
|Fabric:||Fleece [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Pattern Description: I can't find the entry in the catalogue right now but I would describe it as a hooded Gilet with pockets, armhole trim and panel seams. |
Pattern Sizing: Marfy's are single size patterns, ranging from 42 upwards. I made a 42.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much. Marfy drawings are very accurate on the details and it was very close to the drawing when finished.
Were the instructions easy to follow? There are no instructions with Marfy. It was reasonably simple to work out what went where, and Marfy do mark their patterns well, with letters that you match up. The small but crucial details can sometimes be a challenge to work out, but the only thing that was newish to me was the pocket construction. Its fiddly and needs accuracy. I followed the instructions from a Trudy Jansen Pattern of my mother's for this aspect as the pockets are the same type. I expect you could find the instructions in any good sewing book though.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Love the panel seams which allowed me to easily alter for my particular fitting challenges. It is a very sleek and semi fitted shape and I thought it produced a smarter than average hoodie. Love the fur trim idea, and will try this one day. Love the pockets. Didn't dislike anything about this pattern.
Fabric Used: Black polar fleece with a trim in shiny snakeskin which I had a remnant of in the stash. Hood and hem/zipper trim from mystery satin-ey fabric with circles woven into it. The latter from a Fabric Mart bundle some years ago.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Widened the back, added three eighths to shoulder seam at the armhole edge tapering to nothing at the front and to a quarter inch then nothing at the back. Lengthened it one inch at two inches above the waist mark, thus preserving the waistline shaping. The pattern was slightly less fitted than I had thought from the drawing so I redrew some of the panel seams a bit narrower at the waist and hip. More at the waist than the hip. I've also cut this without a hem allowance on then taken a two inch hem, to shorten it a touch. It was going to hit at the base of my bum, more or less, as designed which was longer than I wanted it to be for my height and build. It was also more practical for driving in if it was a little shorter.
I didn't use the fur trim but chose the snake trim. This is actually my muslin though I'm happy to say its come out perfectly wearable. As a muslin I was only going to use what I had on hand to construct it, hence the snakeskin. Its too thin and weedy for the purpose to which I put it really, but its served its purpose. The pockets are trimmed in the same snakeskin. Pocket
Rather than using the facing provided, to cover the zipper, I installed the zipper before I did up the side seams so I could have the front flat. I basted the two fronts together, laid the zipper on the seam allowances, pinnned and then stitched. Just as you would with an ordinary centred zipper (or how I would anyway... there's always many ways to achieve the same end, all equally valid if they work). Then, at the end, I made straight binding from the same satin as I'd lined the hood and sewed that by hand to the zipper tape to hide the tape. This meant I could avoid the bulk of two layers of thick fleece sandwiching the zipper. I've seen it done on RTW and liked the look. The tape ends go respectively into the hood lining and the hem binding for neatness. Hood lining was sewn down at the neck by hand. Straight binding was sewn by machine to the hem edge, then I turned up the hem and sewed the hem binding to the jacket by hand. Some might think that amount of hand sewing was excessive for a fleece, but I was happy to do it as it gave me control over the finish inside. Zipper Trim
One design change that is planned but I haven't yet executed, is the addition of sleeves. I live in a cool climate, and garments get worn more often if they have sleeves. I've found a Marfy jacket sleeve that measures up well against the armhole, and the next version will be a test to see if the sleeve/garment marriage will work.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will sew this again. This was actually a muslin though its turned out totally wearable. The next version will be in navy micro fleece with a shirting lining for the hood and trims, to test the sleeve fit. Then I plan a turquoise Nike fleece with quilt cotton lining to the hood and zipper trim. And a pink micro fleece version... once I've found the right trim/lining. Can you tell I liked the pattern???
I would recommend this pattern. I found it reasonably straightforward to construct, even without the instructions. It's not entirely suitable for a beginner, but an advanced beginner would probably manage fine. The only part that might need you to refer to a book is the pocket construction.... and its not difficult but it does need precision stitching.
Conclusion: Love it. I can see this in several colours... heck, I've just been and bought several colours... see above. It does not need to be confined to fleece either. It looks from the drawing as though its designed to be made in tweed or similar with the fur trim. I'd line it properly in that case... and I am thinking about versions in fabrics other than fleece.
Its a sleek fit with interesting lines and nice, useful sized, pockets.
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