|Pattern Description: |
Lined jacket has collar/length variations, shoulder pads, and long, two-piece effect sleeves. A: snap/exposed zipper closing, loose-fitting, front princess seams, carriers and belt.
I made view A.
Misses 6-22. I made a size 10 tapering out to a 14 at the lower hem.
Recommended fabrics include synthetic leather, gabardine, twill, and corduroy. I used a wool suiting from Fabric Mart similar in hand to a gabardine. The lining is Ambiance rayon from Joann.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I lengthened the sleeves (a standard alteration for me), and made a broad shoulder/back alteration, which is something that I need to do when using a size 10.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes and no. I've actually made all of the other views of this pattern before, most of them quite a while ago. The view B has the same cut but with different detailing, so I didn't need to make any new alterations to the pattern.
There is an error in a drawing for the zipper insertion, in one of the panels it shows the zipper inserted and topstitched facing the wrong way. There is also some confusion regarding whether or not two hidden buttons are used to close the front panel - the envelope calls for two buttons, but the pattern paper indicates that the buttons are only for view B, and the instructions are not clear as to whether the buttons are intended for both A and B, or just B. I omitted the buttons, and think the front closure works find since view A has the zipper closure. Since view B is open in the front, it needs the hidden buttons to prevent the jacket from gaping open.
The main difficulty that I had was in finding matching hardware for the jacket. View A requires a separating zipper, a 2" prong buckle, eyelets for the belt, and large size hammered-on snaps. I chose an antique brass YKK zip for the front, and wanted to match the rest of the hardware to that. I was able to find matching snaps at Joann, but could not find matching eyelets, and ended up with brighter brass grommets instead. The buckle was the hardest to find, I had trouble finding any 2" buckles with prongs online at all, much less in antique brass, and ended up getting a 1 3/4" buckle. This required making the belt less wide.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The overall pattern is great. There are several very different designs included in the pattern, and I have gotten a lot of use out of it. View A specifically is more problematic, mainly due to the hardware problem. I also think that it would be better in a slightly stiffer fabric, when I made view B a long time ago, I used a heavy hemp/cotton blend and prefer the stiffness of that jacket. Some of the views are designed such that they really do need shoulder pads - I tested out a smaller shoulder pad and had to go with a thicker version.
belt of ugh
I am not happy with the belt at all. Even though I used a smaller buckle, the weight of the buckle drags down the belt in front and the entire jacket front as well, causing it to pull up in the back. I do not like the mismatched hardware, which really contributes to that "homemade" look. I am thinking of making a new belt with some leftover fabric, using a stiffer belting to interface, and using a non-pronged buckle instead so that I can omit the eyelets. It is also easier to find non-prong buckles in larger sizes.
belt is droopy
I do like the zipper insertion a lot. I am not sure why the snaps are attached to the lower point and not to the collar, given how high up the other snap section is located - however both the pattern drawing and instructions all have the snaps attached lower down.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Well, I've already sewn this pattern at least half a dozen times, so the answer would have to be yes. I may want to sew up view C again soon… I'm sure this is OOP by now, but it could be worth tracking down a copy if you are looking for a versatile sporty jacket pattern with lots of different design possibilities.