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Pattern Reviews> Vogue Patterns> 1269 (Chado Ralph Rucci Design)

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Reviewed by:noodlesew
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About noodlesewstar
AUSTRALIA
Member since: 1/18/10
Reviews written: 31
Sewing skills:Advanced
Favored by: 8 people
patterns reviewed: 30
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Posted on:1/26/14 7:44 PM
Last Updated:1/28/14 4:05 AM
Project Photo:Vogue Patterns: 1269 by noodlesew

Vogue Patterns: 1269 by noodlesew  Vogue Patterns: 1269 by noodlesew  
Pattern Photo:Vogue Patterns 1269
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 9 people   
See other patterns in this category: Dresses    Accessories    Coat/Jacket    
Available for sale on PR: $32.00 (See envelope) Click to Buy
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Fabric:Rayon Poly Lycra Woven  [See other projects in this fabric]
Pattern Description:
MISSES' JACKET, DRESS AND BELT: Fitted, lined jacket does not meet at center front. Dress, close-fitting through bust, has double layers of lining, side front/side back seams, no side seams and invisible back zipper. Both have double-layered flounces and baby narrow hems. Self, bias belt is knotted.

Designed by Ralph Rucci under his Chado label.

Pattern Sizing:
Multisize 6-12. I cut size 6 to fit Australian size 6-8.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. I am making the dress only. I think I prefer the bolero in v2237 and v1154 to the one for this pattern. For now I am wearing the dress with a purchased sequin shrug.

Unlike the stiff effect on the model, my flounce drapes smoothly over the organza lining.

The triangular silhouette seems to work for my figure as I thought the armholes won't be flattering for my tomboy (swimmers/windsurfer) shoulders.

I still couldn't figure how a dress made out of stiff organza floats over the hips of the model to give that "mermaid-fish tail" effect for an A-line dress. If I want that effect, I probably have to cut the lower edge of the centre back and centre front pieces inward and take in the flounce pieces at the joining seams to fit the narrower width.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. There are only 4 pieces of simple shapes to the dress. Although it was confusing as to which piece is lining, and which is interlining. The suggested organza, chiffon and georgette would have been a nightmare to sew.

I did away with the interlining as I wasn't using a sheer. I made a mistake with laying out and ran out of fabric. I ended up joining fabric to make up one of the flounce pieces. The fullness of the flounce hid the seams anyway.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the simple elegance of the A-line dress with slightly cut-in armholes. However, I wasn't sure about the look of the flounces on the jacket sleeves and on the skirt. In the end, I managed to achieve the look that I want, which is to capture the elements of Michelle Obama's Whitehouse portrait dress by Michael Kors, and her pink and blue dress with flounce by Tracy Reese (see B5894 for similar look).

I thought the design looked somewhat Spanish and went for a red fabric.

For an "advanced" pattern, the instructions look simple. This is when sewing experience says don't jump into this seemingly easy pattern with your $100 plus per m exclusive custom loom silk without making a toile (the American "muslin"). Fitting the almost flat straight side panel pieces into a curve for the bust can be tricky. Tear-away stabilizer and anti fray agent may be needed for delicate sheer fabrics.

There is no other bust adjustment to fit the curvy figure. Any bust shaping darts must be added to the centre bodice before cutting.

I love the cleverness of the almost straight side panels and the angular armholes.

Clipping at the armhole at a high stress area sounds warning bells. If I were using sheer silk, I would reinforce with self fabric or organza, and not just a simple row of reinforcement stitching.

French seams are used throughout the pattern as the recommended fabric are sheers. Since I am not sewing sheers for the dress, I only used French seam for the flounce lining.

The flounce comprises 3 circles. Narrow hemming required a row of stabilizing stitching to prevent rippling of the bias cut hem that form from joining the 3 circles. So, if you aren't fussy like "chado", be prepared for a frilly hem effect. The flounce is really clever as it achieves a lot of fullness without the bulk used in gathered versions.

The flounce grew during hanging as would be the case for bias cut. I am glad I sewed in plenty of time to even out the hem before Chinese New Year.

In hindsight, I recommend using organza to interface the neckline and armholes even though I used stable fabrics. This is so that the dress wouldn't stretch out of shape with wearing.

Fabric Used:
Stretch rayon blend with a bit of body for the dress, polyester organza to underline the flounce, and cotton voile for lining to keep the dress light weight and cool enough to wear on Chinese New Year at the end of January.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I cut a size 6 without alteration, one size smaller as the pattern runs large for a design that is fitted at the bust. I eliminated the interlining as I used rayon with body instead of sheer organza. I used organza underneath the skirt instead of on top to achieve the flounce.

I made a mistake with cutting the belt and ended up half width like spaghetti thickness which I really like as I wanted to tie the end with Chinese button knots instead of the plain knot in the instructions. I thought this is more "Chado", so I borrowed the instructions from V1107, another Ralph Rucci design.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I won't be sewing another with the flounce as I feel it made the dress look like a costume. Otherwise, the design has an understated, refined elegance to it.

Now that I have tried on the dress, I can recommend the design to others who like comfort of an A-line dress with the waist loosely cinched in using a belt. Size 6 works well for me. The lack of bust darts made the design unsuitable for larger cup sizes. I find a slight "potato" look with A-cup push-ups.

Conclusion:
This designer pattern can be made easier with a different choice of fabric than the sheers recommended. I think beginners with patience can make this "advance" pattern using stable fabrics. The dress can be sewn in a weekend unless using french seams and interlining that add to the sewing time. Overall, the pattern is well drafted.
Available for sale on PR: $32.00 (See envelope)Click to Buy
 
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16 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
JudieL said...
Your dress looks lovely! What pattern are you using for the sequin shrug?
1/21/14 1:53 AM
Jupiter, FL said...
What a Beautiful Dress! Thanks for the tips for beginners - not sure I'm up to it yet, but your wonderful Work-in-process is an inspiration!
1/21/14 9:42 AM
Scheri said...
Love it!
1/22/14 1:07 AM
NJcowgirl said...
Your dress looks great. Thank you for such a thorough review. It's so helpful.
1/22/14 10:06 AM
Wianno Girl said...
Lovely dress - the flounce you made seems more flattering to my eye. I appreciate the seamstress's review.
1/22/14 2:20 PM
Sew Good said...
Beautiful! I love the Chinese Button Knots :) Very nice!
1/27/14 0:09 AM
Quickie said...
Your dress looks so more wearable than the pic on the envelope. I love it. The belt is a smart find
1/27/14 0:10 AM
Danvillegirl said...
Beautiful dress!
1/27/14 5:10 AM
caper81 said...
This dress is gorgeous! The colour is red, you say, although it looks hot pink in these photos (I don't think you could go wrong with either;) I like that your flounce has more drape, I think in the pattern photo it looks a little too stiff. Great review!:)
1/27/14 8:01 AM
ASiverson said...
Totally gorgeous dress you've made! And what a great review and tips too! Many, many thanks. I've had an eye on this pattern too. If I purchase and make it I will definitely be referencing your review. TFS!
1/27/14 9:23 AM
carolynw said...
Lovely dress - wish we could see a full length photo with the flounces but the top fits you beautifully. Great work and very helpful review
1/27/14 1:12 PM
Jstarr4250 said...
Very beautiful. Loved seeing all of the details.
1/28/14 6:46 AM
SewWil said...
Beautiful dress! Great job,
1/28/14 9:01 AM
2mulie said...
Like your look better than the pattern cover. Bust darts could be added at the side seam. BTW in America we try our patterns with a mock-up called a muslin.
1/28/14 4:31 PM
VirginiasDghter said...
Love your dress! I purchased this pattern when it first came out and you've reminded me that I have it. I will definitely refer to your review when I get to it. Very nice work!
1/31/14 2:01 PM
wendalia said...
I wasn't particularly impressed with the dress on the pattern envelope and bought it thinking it would make a comfortable top. After seeing your dress, I'm going all out and making the dress.
5/23/14 8:06 PM
 
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