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Tips & Techniques > lining with an invizible zip

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Posted by: Nancywin
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Posted on: 5/6/07 1:39 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 20 people   
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When making a dress with an invisible zipper and a lining, it is sometimes difficult to get everything looking neat. This is the proceedure I use.
1. make the dress front and back (darts, insets, etc.) and the same for the lining
2. Sew front to back at shoulders. Do the same for lining. **note, side seams are NOT sewn
3. Sew the lining to the dress at the neck and armscyes. Be sure to clip curves and trim close to the s.a.
3. Press all seams open before turning
4. turn by pulling backs through the shoulders.
5. Now install invisible zipper to dress fabric only. I cut the top of the zipper tape about 1/2" and line it up with the seam where the lining meets the dress. Sew in both sides of the zip leaving lining free. Do Not finish the bottom of the seam yet.
6. On one side, flip your lining back over the neck edge of the garment so that right sides are together and the zipper is covered with the lining. (zipper should be open)
7. sew the edge of the lining to the seam allowance and zipper tape using a zipper foot. Go the full length of the zipper and then stop
8. Flip the lining back over so that you now have a clean finish next to your zipper. Repeat steps 6-8 on the other side.
9. Now sew the bottom CB seam of the dress below the zipper to the hem
10. Sew the bottom of the lining starting about 3 inches below the zipper and down to the hem.
11. Finish your lining hem and dress hem as usual.

I tried to take pix of this technique, but my fabric was white and didn't show up well. I will try to update with something in a color.

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Loretta Mary said... (8/13/10 12:43 PM) Reply
very helpful!
Dia said... (8/28/07 3:18 PM) Reply
I assume that the side seams are done before finishing the lining and dress hem. I printed the instructions and will try this on my next dress. Thank you very much. Diane
shil said... (6/15/07 5:03 PM) Reply
am shil from Nigerian am so happy cos i have improved my sewing am so graful to u
martinanne said... (5/10/07 9:51 AM) Reply
Thanks for posting this tip! It is very hepful, and I agree that pictures would be really really great.
JudyP said... (5/10/07 9:49 AM) Reply
This sounds great and easy to do! I usually hand sew the lining on invisible zips. I will try this next time. Pictures would be very helpful if you have time to take them.
chip1980 said... (5/7/07 5:23 PM) Reply
I must be a bit slow...and definitely am a novice when it comes to REAL garment sewing...(anything beyond baby things and kids pj's) pictures would be of GREAT value. I THINK I could follow this...maybe...if I were doing it step by step...but am not sure. I WOULD LIKE to print it out complete with pics...for future use. PLEASE DO FOLLOW IT UP WITH PICS. THANKS...Marcia
jbrewer said... (5/7/07 7:36 AM) Reply
Thanks for the tip!
KempCorr said... (5/6/07 10:09 PM) Reply
I think I follow this, but photos would be helpful.
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