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Tips & Techniques > Fast way to line a suit jacket by bagging the lining

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Posted by: Kim Winson

About Kim Winson starstar
Member since: 2/2/02
Reviews: 86 (tips: 12)
Skill level:Intermediate
Favored by: 19 people
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Posted on: 8/10/07 6:24 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 2 people   Very Helpful by 19 people   
The original instructions can be found here: Click Here. It really does work! I'm just adding pictures because I'm a visual learner. (please forgive all of the ungainly links, it's been awhile since I've posted a tip and I've forgotten the HTML that allows an embedded link. I'll fix it in a bit...) Here goes:

1) Use the sleeve and jacket body pattern pieces to cut the lining by simply folding up the hem allowances. That is, cut the body and sleeves of the lining the finished length of the garment. In the lining back, cut center back on a seam, not just a fold even if your jacket back is cut on a fold, and allow for a one-inch pleat at the center back. Add a 1-5/8 extension to the center back fold of the jacket pattern to serve as seam allowance and pleat. Construct lining completely, including sleeves, and leave a 6-inch opening in the middle of center back seam. Press well. Kim's note: take out the hem allowances even if the pattern does not have any facings. Ask me how I know this.... Copy and paste this link for a picture of the back lining piece with the 6" hole (this example is a princess seamed jackets, the centerback pieces only): Click Here
Here's a picture of the completed lining of the jacket (you will also see facings, as the front facing pieces= lining in this particular jacket): Click Here.

2) Construct jacket completely, including facings, shoulder pad insertion and hemming at jacket bottom and sleeves. Hand hem 1/2 inch from hem edge to allow enough room to machine sew lining and garment together. Both lining and jacket should be well pressed before process begins. With right sides together, pin lining and jacket along front and neck facings. Sew one continuous seam from the bottom of one front facing, up one side, around neck and back down the other side. Turn garment right side out. Insert sleeve lining into garment sleeve. Try on jacket. Copy and paste this link for a picture: Click Here.
Here's another picture: Click Here

3) Match garment sleeve and lining sleeve hems at seams. Pin together at seam placement. The step eliminates twisting the sleeve lining when attaching sleeve hems. Reach in from open bottom edge between garment and lining and pull a sleeve wrong side out. Garment sleeve will pull jacket with it since they are pinned at the bottom edge at seam joints. Pinning right sides together, align seams (think of two elephants, trunk-to-trunk). Now sew sleeve lining to sleeve at bottom edge, using a 3/8 inch seam. Join the second sleeve and lining in the same way. Kim's note: Now, this is where I think it gets confusing. Still follow the instructions, but when you pull the sleeves out, the lining and the fashion fabric are pinned wrong side together; see picture: Click Here
You actually have to unpin the fabric, and rotate the fashion fabric clockwise and the lining counter-clockwise in order to get the two pieces of fabric to meet right-sides together; it's easiest if you match the seams. Here's a picture of the finished process: Click Here. If you look very carefully, you will see that the lining and the fashion fabric are now right-sides together, matched at the seams. Continue to match the remaining raw edge of the sleeves, right-sides together. (I forgot to baste the hems of the fashion-fabric sleeves for this jacket...oops.) Here's a picture of the lining/fashion fabric after I've sewn them together and finished the raw edges: Click Here. Here's another picture: Click Here

4) Now pull sleeves right side out. You will see that the this technique creates it's own little "jump pleat" in the lining, SO COOL! Here's a picture of the finished sleeve lining without the jump pleat, because I wanted to show the seam: Click Here. And another one: Click Here

5) Lining is attached to jacket except for bottom edge. Align jacket and lining at underarm seams and pin in place. From the outside of the jacket, sew in the well of the seam for one inch just below armhole on the jacket body. Tack lining to shoulder pads in a few spots. A picture of the free bottom edge: Click Here

6) Spread the jacket on the table with the lining side against the table and the outside of the jacket facing you. Fold sleeves into the middle, crossing the back of the jacket. Bring the hem of the fashion fabric up to the shoulders. Continue rolling the jacket up inside as you bring the fashion fabric hem to match up with the bottom of the lining. Kim's note: this is easier to do than it sounds like. Here are some pictures of the "burrito": a) Click Here b) And peeking inside the "burrito": Click Here

7) Also, match up the side seam allowances in the fashion fabric jacket and the lining. Sew the jacket hem to the bottom edge of the lining with a continuous 3/8-inch seam allowance. Start at one side of a facing and stitch across the hem to the opposite facing, sewing only the jacket hem. Start and stop your stitching 1 inch before the ends of the lining.

8) Turn the jacket right side out through the 6-inch hole you left in the center back of the jacket lining. Using a 5/8 seam allowance, close the opening by hand or machine and press the pleat to hide the stitching. Adjust fold at the bottom corners of lining, where lining meets the facing so it lies flat. Sew in place by hand. Press. (Voila! You now have a completely lined jacket. Sew Easy!)

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Tiger B said... (10/7/12 0:22 AM) Reply
Your photos have saved my sanity! Thank you!
said... (7/4/10 5:28 PM) Reply
This explains the technique very well.....even I could follow it!
frame said... (4/1/10 4:13 PM) Reply
What a great tip/technique. The pictures make it so easy to understand. Thanks.
Coastal Connie said... (2/21/10 11:26 PM) Reply
Hi, I was disappointed that the review's picture links are no longer active. Can this be fixed? thanks
Raye of Sonshine said... (3/6/08 4:08 PM) Reply
Excellent pictures! I too benefit well from seeing things!! Thank you!
excentric said... (8/18/07 11:56 PM) Reply
What an excellent technique, will print your detailed instructions and photos to use for my next jacket. Thank you for great tip. Will also be passing this on to all my dressmaking friends as well.
Kim Winson said... (8/15/07 6:21 AM) Reply
Hi sewnow: You are correct about the lining being as wide as the jacket itself. I did not find this to be a problem. When I used this method on a jacket with facings (a different jacket than the one used here as an example), the extra lining formed a jump pleat along the front facings of the jacket. It doesn't interfere or peak out when I wear the jacket, even when I button it up. HTH.
stlox said... (8/14/07 7:14 PM) Reply
Excellent review. It certainly is a help.
sewnow said... (8/14/07 1:54 PM) Reply
This simple method to line a jacket has been one of the most difficult procedures for me to comprehend. Hopefully, with these new found details I will be successful when I finally try to sew the lining by bagging it. Been scared off to even try. One question, dumb, maybe from a long time sewer, but if the lining is cut from the jacket, and the jacket has a facing, won't the lining be too wide and some of the front lining will have to be trimmed off to accommodate the space the facing is using.
Karine said... (8/14/07 11:04 AM) Reply
Kim, this is terrific! I'll continue to thank you every time I use this.
MAB.AZ said... (8/13/07 5:50 PM) Reply
Thank you, thank you, Kim! The photos make it easy to understand.
Olivia Sews said... (8/12/07 6:15 PM) Reply
Thanks for posting the idea. I am in the process of getting some wool to make pants and a jacket for winter and I am debating what kind of lining to get. I like the idea of stretch lining but I don't think it would work on wool.
utz said... (8/11/07 9:18 AM) Reply
I used this to get to her album showing steps:
Karine said... (8/11/07 8:39 AM) Reply
Kim, I am very visual, too, and appreciate you posting pictures to illustrate the steps. Unfortunately, I am not able to access your pictures by pasting the link in my browser - I just get the photobucket main page
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