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Tips & Techniques > Prevent Lapel Scoop-out

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Posted by: nancy2001

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Posted on: 9/26/09 4:36 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 11 people   
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Perfectly sewn lapels add a professional touch to your tailored jackets. Unfortunately notched lapels, and peaked lapels, are the hardest type of collar treatment to sew correctly. When the lapels aren't sewn properly, the upper edge of the lower lapel will appear scooped out. This unattractive, concave shape resembles a lobster's claw, as seen in this photo.

To get a perfect lapel such as the one below

Jackets for Real People recommends that you compensate by sewing the top edge of the lapel's seam in an convex arc just above the lapel's straight seamline.

But I think it's easier to adjust the lapel's upper seamline directly on the pattern, as the photo posted below shows.

Note that I have marked the original straight seamline with a Sharpie. The convex area I added lies above the black line.

It's better to build in slightly more of an arc than you need, since you can easily trim it down.

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Liz29 said... (9/22/12 4:24 PM) Reply
Thank U for Ur time and effort explaining .....Very informative
Liz29 said... (9/22/12 3:55 PM) Reply
Thank U for Ur time and effort explaining .....Very informative
CynthiaSue said... (7/23/10 0:06 AM) Reply
wow amazing and helpful tip.
nancy2001 said... (7/13/10 1:30 PM) Reply
I just tested the links to the photos, and they still work.
sewsally said... (9/27/09 7:37 PM) Reply
I am having trouble viewing the photos. I can't seem to copy and paste the links.
Elaine Dougan said... (9/27/09 9:38 AM) Reply
Thank you for sharing your experience.
nancy2001 said... (9/27/09 6:19 AM) Reply
I'm glad you found this tip helpful. Petro. I believe you're right -- the amount of the arch would depend on the thickness of the fabric. And Monjo, muslins are the key to success in jacket making.
petro said... (9/27/09 2:36 AM) Reply
Thanks for this Nancy. I guess the amount you swerve your stitching line out would depend on the fabric - more for thicker fabric?
ryansmumAria said... (9/26/09 8:44 PM) Reply
ok Nancy, you are spoiling us with all this great info. You aren't allowed to stop now...
sewglenda said... (9/26/09 7:56 PM) Reply
Thank You. Gteat idea.
monijo said... (9/26/09 7:33 PM) Reply
Again, thank you for another informative tailoring comment. As is said, "a stitch in time, saves nine". It's better to draw that line on the pattern rather than using a "just go for it" approach. Above all, first sew a muslin that can be cried over and easily forgotten.
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