Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review


Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Find a member
MY Stuff
Friends of PR Benefits
My Pattern Reviews
My Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Widget
Photo Album
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Calendar
Deal Corner
Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine Central
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests
Read All Review Requests
Add a Review Request
Live Chats
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
See all Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
all contests
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials
Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
Prevent Lapel Scoop-out (Tip/Technique)
Viewed 5266 times
Review rated Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 10 people   
Posted by: nancy2001
photo
Friend of PR
About nancy2001 starstarstarstar
AL USA
Member since: 12/3/05
Reviews written: 110
Sewing skills:Advanced
Favored by: 130 people
tips added: 10
Bio: more...
Report a problem with this review
Posted on: 9/26/09 4:36 PM
Web site/URL: photo
Perfectly sewn lapels add a professional touch to your tailored jackets. Unfortunately notched lapels, and peaked lapels, are the hardest type of collar treatment to sew correctly. When the lapels aren't sewn properly, the upper edge of the lower lapel will appear scooped out. This unattractive, concave shape resembles a lobster's claw, as seen in this photo.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj46/nancynancy2001/P5051268-1.jpg

To get a perfect lapel such as the one below

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj46/nancynancy2001/P9171578.jpg

Jackets for Real People recommends that you compensate by sewing the top edge of the lapel's seam in an convex arc just above the lapel's straight seamline.


But I think it's easier to adjust the lapel's upper seamline directly on the pattern, as the photo posted below shows.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj46/nancynancy2001/P9261600.jpg

Note that I have marked the original straight seamline with a Sharpie. The convex area I added lies above the black line.


It's better to build in slightly more of an arc than you need, since you can easily trim it down.

Merchants on PR
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!

<< Previous Next >>

Add Tip/Technique    Read All Tip/Techniques


11 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
monijo said...
Again, thank you for another informative tailoring comment. As is said, "a stitch in time, saves nine". It's better to draw that line on the pattern rather than using a "just go for it" approach. Above all, first sew a muslin that can be cried over and easily forgotten.
9/26/09 7:33 PM
sewglenda said...
Thank You. Gteat idea.
9/26/09 7:56 PM
ryansmumAria said...
ok Nancy, you are spoiling us with all this great info. You aren't allowed to stop now...
9/26/09 8:44 PM
petro said...
Thanks for this Nancy. I guess the amount you swerve your stitching line out would depend on the fabric - more for thicker fabric?
9/27/09 2:36 AM
nancy2001 said...
I'm glad you found this tip helpful. Petro. I believe you're right -- the amount of the arch would depend on the thickness of the fabric. And Monjo, muslins are the key to success in jacket making.
9/27/09 6:19 AM
Elaine Dougan said...
Thank you for sharing your experience.
9/27/09 9:38 AM
sewsally said...
I am having trouble viewing the photos. I can't seem to copy and paste the links.
9/27/09 7:37 PM
nancy2001 said...
I just tested the links to the photos, and they still work.
7/13/10 1:30 PM
CynthiaSue said...
wow amazing and helpful tip.
7/23/10 0:06 AM
Liz29 said...
Thank U for Ur time and effort explaining .....Very informative
9/22/12 3:55 PM
Liz29 said...
Thank U for Ur time and effort explaining .....Very informative
9/22/12 4:24 PM

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us