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Tips & Techniques > Inserting a zip - especially good on a curved seam

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Posted by: Ec

About Ec star
Member since: 5/9/05
Reviews: 15 (tips: 1)
Skill level:Advanced Beginner
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Posted on: 2/5/06 10:56 PM
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 3 people   
Though I am a beginner sewist, I wanted to share with at least all the other beginners, a good way to insert a zip - especially for a curved seam.

I just made Burda 8513, (the "famous" pants pattern on PR) so these instructions are based on that pattern, but of course, change it as applicable if you're making a skirt, etc. This pattern calls for a 20cm zip on the left seam hip.

1. At the step where you sew the left leg seam, also baste the section where the zip will go with a bright / different coloured thread by sewing with a long (4mm) stitch along the seam allowance.

2. Continue to sew up pants as specified in instructions.

(Make sure to serge the seam allowances separately, at least for the zip section and a few more centimetres!!)

When you get to the point of inserting the zip, ...

3. Pin and then HAND BASTE the zip inside the pants, lining up the zip with your basting stitches. Do a good job, hold it in nice and tight! It's worth it!

4. Sew zip in place using a zipper foot - sew with the 'wrong' side up to get the stitches nice and straight in line with the zip :)

Make sure there is no puckering of fabric - that your job is neat and tidy, etc before moving on. If there's a problem, unpick it! It's really worth doing it again :)

5. Unpick the bright coloured basting stitches. If you pull the fabric taught over the zip, they will reveal themselves to you and you won't mistake them for the fabric or the 'real' sewing thread.

Voila! You should now have a lovely looking zip installation!!!

Jump around and giggle like an idiot - I did!!!!!

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Learn To Sew said... (2/9/06 9:13 PM) Reply
Sounds like a good idea. I will have to try it next time. I love the idea of the bright colored thread.
inkyannie said... (2/6/06 9:36 AM) Reply
Sounds so easy. I have read on the boards that "wash away woder tape" works well in place of the basting in. I just bought some and used it to while putting on a collar and it worked great. Thanks for the tip.
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