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Tips & Techniques > Turning a hem to the outside with a clean finish

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Posted by: Irene Q
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About Irene Q starstarstarstar
Member since: 3/19/04
Reviews: 127 (tips: 12)
Skill level:Intermediate
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Posted on: 2/15/06 6:18 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 4 people   Very Helpful by 15 people   
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Turning a hem to the outside can be a nice detail if your fabric looks the same on both sides, or if the wrong side makes a nice contrast. The problem is, how to keep the seam from showing on the outside? This is a technique I came up with to hide that seam, although if there is a name for this, I'd love to know! I'm using a sleeve hem as an illustration.

Before sewing the sleeve seam, press the hem up to the outside. Mark a spot on the seamline about 1/4" to 1/2" below where the top of the hem will be. (This location will be covered by the hem when you're finished.) With WRONG sides together, sew the seam from the bottom to this spot, then clip the seam right to the stitching. click here

Turn the sleeve to the inside and turn the seam above the clip so that the RIGHT sides are together (the normal way). click here Sew the remainder of the seam from the clip to the end. Press both parts of the seam open.

You now have a seam that shows on the outside at the bottom, under the hem, and is on the inside for the rest of the sleeve. click here

Edgestitch the hem - or finish it as you wish. Here's what it looks like on the outside, and here's the inside. I wouldn't use this technique on a fabric that ravels, but on a stable fabric it works great!

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KAB said... (4/23/06 1:01 PM) Reply
Crystal clear instructions for a unique upgrade. Thanks.
Hilary said... (3/3/06 9:31 AM) Reply
Thank you for this tip, Irene! Very clear and a great idea!
inkyannie said... (2/26/06 6:53 PM) Reply
Thanks for this tip. I have often wondered how to accomplish this.
solosmocker said... (2/22/06 9:57 PM) Reply
Great tip and very clear. Thanks!
AnneM said... (2/17/06 7:53 AM) Reply
I have some some RTW clothing that uses this technique. It looks very nice. Great job on the instructions.
Cloud9 said... (2/16/06 1:38 PM) Reply
Hi Irene, Thanks so much for this tip. Terrific tip! You have a wonderful gift of writing explicit instructions and the photos were terrific. Thank you. Diane
MarilynB said... (2/16/06 6:38 AM) Reply
Thank you, Irene. I have just the project for this technique.
MAB.AZ said... (2/16/06 0:19 AM) Reply
Thanks for a good tip. Why don't I think of these things?
FloraNature said... (2/15/06 6:31 PM) Reply
Thank you for this tip Irene. Your instructions are very clear, and so are your photos.
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